Could use some help- Noob
07-01-2017, 07:11 PM
#1
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Could use some help- Noob
Ive read a ton of threads but Im still not sure what is my issue.
Car uses a 94 miata engine and wiring harness. It is in a lotus 7 car but everything is basically stock. Car ran previously
I tried to install a DIYPNP yesterday and the car would crank and start then stopped. I changed back to the stock ecu and now it just cranks.
I grabbed the wire that goes to the MAF sensor and it was really hot at which point i shut everything down for the day.
The MS has power to 1 pin but doesnt appear to have power anywhere else as my wideband isnt seeing voltage.I checked all the fuses and have no issues there.
With the ms plugged into the car I dont get a connection to my laptop. If I disconnect the car side and plug in the 12v power source I can get connections with no problem
I dont have spark when cranking. I do have voltage at the coils. The fuel pump comes on etc.
The one thing I thought could be an issue is the fact that the car once had a link ecu in it before i bought it. Reading the documents that came with it I see this
Could that be a problem?
I have a buddy coming over tomorrow to help but less chasing my tail would feel good right now.
Car uses a 94 miata engine and wiring harness. It is in a lotus 7 car but everything is basically stock. Car ran previously
I tried to install a DIYPNP yesterday and the car would crank and start then stopped. I changed back to the stock ecu and now it just cranks.
I grabbed the wire that goes to the MAF sensor and it was really hot at which point i shut everything down for the day.
The MS has power to 1 pin but doesnt appear to have power anywhere else as my wideband isnt seeing voltage.I checked all the fuses and have no issues there.
With the ms plugged into the car I dont get a connection to my laptop. If I disconnect the car side and plug in the 12v power source I can get connections with no problem
I dont have spark when cranking. I do have voltage at the coils. The fuel pump comes on etc.
The one thing I thought could be an issue is the fact that the car once had a link ecu in it before i bought it. Reading the documents that came with it I see this
Intake Air Temperature Sensor 1) Look carefully at the back (side that the wires go in) of the connectors, a hinged flap on top and bottom of the connectors holds them in place. Slip a knife or thumbnail under both edges of the flaps to release them. This exposes the individual terminals. 2) The Blue/Yellow wire in position 1P will be moved to 1M. If there is a Green/Red wire in position 1M, remove it and tape it off because it will no longer be used. To do this, slip a sharp pointed tool, like a dental pick, into the back of the metal connector above the wire. The tool must slide through the little loop of metal above the wire- this will release a plastic lock tab to let the connector pull out.
I have a buddy coming over tomorrow to help but less chasing my tail would feel good right now.
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07-02-2017, 08:22 PM
#4
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Damn main relay..
It clicked but when I pulled the case off I noticed it wasn't fully throwing the arm. Screw driver fixed that for now!
Got the MS up and running. Only issue i have now is a difference between the aem gauge and the MS screen.. Got to do some research on that.
Thanks for the help folks!
It clicked but when I pulled the case off I noticed it wasn't fully throwing the arm. Screw driver fixed that for now!
Got the MS up and running. Only issue i have now is a difference between the aem gauge and the MS screen.. Got to do some research on that.
Thanks for the help folks!
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07-03-2017, 11:16 AM
#5
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Damn main relay..
It clicked but when I pulled the case off I noticed it wasn't fully throwing the arm. Screw driver fixed that for now!
Got the MS up and running. Only issue i have now is a difference between the aem gauge and the MS screen.. Got to do some research on that.
Thanks for the help folks!
It clicked but when I pulled the case off I noticed it wasn't fully throwing the arm. Screw driver fixed that for now!
Got the MS up and running. Only issue i have now is a difference between the aem gauge and the MS screen.. Got to do some research on that.
Thanks for the help folks!
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07-03-2017, 11:19 AM
#6
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I'm still running a difference between the gauge and Ts.
There is a thread about a calibration difference but I don't have the lambda.ink file on my system.
Anyone had any luck with the aem gauges? Noticed DIY doesn't sell them anymore
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07-03-2017, 11:50 AM
#7
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I use an AEM gauge. You have to start with the numbers in the documentation and then adjust them slightly. So instead of maybe 4.5v = 22afr it really is 4.45v=22afr. Or something like that. You will have to try a bit to get them to match.
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07-03-2017, 12:45 PM
#8
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I used the numbers that came with the gauge.
I'm still running a difference between the gauge and Ts.
There is a thread about a calibration difference but I don't have the lambda.ink file on my system.
Anyone had any luck with the aem gauges? Noticed DIY doesn't sell them anymore
I'm still running a difference between the gauge and Ts.
There is a thread about a calibration difference but I don't have the lambda.ink file on my system.
Anyone had any luck with the aem gauges? Noticed DIY doesn't sell them anymore
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07-03-2017, 04:23 PM
#10
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Saw a few posts but the verdicts were different on all of them.
The red.blue. Black wire goes to a connector that connects to the wideband. Blue to the board. Red to board power (pins to the white and red wire in the harness) and black to the board.
Think I should change it up and move all of the connections to the harness side of the connector?
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