cranking settings starts but wont idle
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From: Springfield, IL
just hooked up ms today and yea it turns over and idles if i give it gas and when i let off gas it dies about 5 secs later heres my msq file anyone running tan tops with a greddy kit the car smells really rich but dont know how to change the cranking options anyone have a proven setup that runs im in IL by the way pretty cold these days
dont know how to post my msq file or tables"????
dont know how to post my msq file or tables"????
did you set the required fuel for the tan tops?
254cc tan tops on a 1.6liter should give you a required fuel of 10.5
what settings did you use for After Start enrichments?
254cc tan tops on a 1.6liter should give you a required fuel of 10.5
what settings did you use for After Start enrichments?
Thread Starter
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From: Springfield, IL
I dont know really braineack made it for me and sent a msq that he thought would run good but it starts and then dies and how do i get to the req fuel and what should my after start enrichment stuff be set for im super new to this and have never used ms before this and dont know what all the settings mean or do????
read the manual....it doesnt start right away if your car is not stock or close to stock...you will have to adjust some stuff...i know its difficult because i went through the same thing but just kept reading and playing with it... i think ajdusting the require fuel is on engine constant...
for some reason my car start and runs on 250cc without doing any adjusting... but setting the require fuel..make sure your megatune is connected...then goto basic settings on top left next to file... engine constant one....and set require fuel. engine dispalcement for 1.6 is 1600.. 4 cyclinder. injectors flow...is 254cc and airfuel ratio is 14.7...that should set your fuel..
Thread Starter
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From: Springfield, IL
okay so now i got the car to idle shitty and it sputters and fights to run right but when its idling the a/f ratio is in the 20's and its like 600 rpm and when i change stuff in the fuel table theres no change in realtime???????
You have to burn the fuel map when you change something.
File- Burn To ECU or ALT-B will accomplish that.
Or you can go to Tuning-> VE table 1 and adjust things realtime. Make sure you burn before closing that window.
File- Burn To ECU or ALT-B will accomplish that.
Or you can go to Tuning-> VE table 1 and adjust things realtime. Make sure you burn before closing that window.
To edit fuel, do "Alt+T" and then "1". It brings up a nice 3d graph display, and when you make changes in that mode, the changes take effect in real time. You should still burn before you close that window, though.
-Mike
-Mike
did you get it idling yet? figure that out first.
I can't remember if AFR target table is functional with the narrowband, if it is, turn it off while figuring that out.
The factory o2 is needed for the stock ecu or it'll throw a CEL. that shouldn't affect anything since the MS is controlling fuel and spark. You could feed one of the LC1 outputs to the stock sensor input but you'd still need to trick the factory computer into seeing the heater element. how close to the turbo is the o2 bung? you don't wanna go closer than 3 feet, especially with the LC1. They overheat pretty easily I've heard/read. Your best bet may be to have an second bung welded in 3 feet from the turbo, keep the narrowband in the stock location and run the wideband in the new bung.
I can't remember if AFR target table is functional with the narrowband, if it is, turn it off while figuring that out.
The factory o2 is needed for the stock ecu or it'll throw a CEL. that shouldn't affect anything since the MS is controlling fuel and spark. You could feed one of the LC1 outputs to the stock sensor input but you'd still need to trick the factory computer into seeing the heater element. how close to the turbo is the o2 bung? you don't wanna go closer than 3 feet, especially with the LC1. They overheat pretty easily I've heard/read. Your best bet may be to have an second bung welded in 3 feet from the turbo, keep the narrowband in the stock location and run the wideband in the new bung.
If your LC1 is hooked up start watching the AFR at idle. If you are idling too rich or too lean manually editing the VE table at the GREEN cell and the surrounding cells should help you get it to idle better. My MSPNP idles best around 13.5. If I go as lean as the factory ECU idles(15-16), it misfires.




