Hey guys,

Trying to diagnose what seems to be an issue on my DIYPNP itself, but so far after reading everything regarding no starts on a DIYPNP on here the last 2 days I've had no luck in solving my issue.

So long story short, my 1991 is bone stock and this is my first stage in prepping for boost this fall. fuel pump is running but i'm getting no RPM signal. Its reading out as 1 RPM while cranking over. The car does not start, or even sputter or attempt to start for that matter. It just turns over implying no fuel, and the dry spark plugs confirm that. The stock ECU runs the car perfectly.

I've been using the latest 3.3.2 firmware, which is seems to install just fine, and I've been using the 240cc startup file supplied by DIYAutoTune website. Attached is a log of me trying to start it up. I checked continuity on all the wiring from the edge pin connections to the PNP pins and it all checks out. Is there anything I can verify on the board itself? or some reason in specific why the RPM wouldnt be inputting properly so I can narrow down where to diagnose further?

Thanks in advance for the help

 

There is a problem with your tach input or tune settings. Needs more posting of tune file (.msq) and composite log (.csv).

 

the tune is attached (downloaded straight from DIYAutoTune)

I've been looking into the tach input myself but havent had much luck as of yet. I tried to do a composite log, but it wouldnt record.. i'm completely new to TunerStudio so I'm assuming I just havent figured it out yet and am just missing on something simple.

 

No, I don't want a copy of my tune from my website. I would like to see a copy of the exact tune out of your ECU, please.

The composite log may take as long as 10 seconds before you see anything on screen.

 

Is this what your looking for? I apologize for the misunderstanding

 

after doing lots of diagnosing on the car prodding around checking voltages and following back everything I could from the OPT- and VR circuits, I figured out I made the noob mistake of accidentally installing one of the cam adjust resistors (R20) so I removed it. I checked the CAS wire voltages and they are GND, 12V, 10V, 5V in that order before and after the removal of the resistor, which is incorrect from what I've found (suppose to be GND, 12V, 5V, 5V unless I'm wrong there) BUT the car started right up which is what really matters to me at this point. Got the base timing set and got a good base file done on the VE table within about 30 mins. Time to let the fun begin!

 

That will do it - leave R20, R21, and R39 out when building a DIYPNP for a Miata.