DIYPNP '91 MX-5 Doest start - Miata Turbo Forum - Boost cars, acquire cats.

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Old 03-26-2016, 04:28 AM   #1
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Default DIYPNP '91 MX-5 Doest start

Hey everyone, I'm new here and I'm planning on turbo'ing my MX-5 soon. Car is stock apart from an exhaust and some tiny bits and pieces. I'm running an innovate mtx-l straight into the stock O2 sensor port. I got a DIYPNP for my car and I've got a problem with it. Soldered everything in place, but I wasn't sure how to wire in the stock tps signal and the injectors. Now there is one wire from INJ1 on the board to the connector board, the same goes for INJ2. Is this enough or does it need two additional wires? Another thing is the manual says the stock tps needs a 1k resistor between the tps port and the connector board. I soldered one in between the wire as I had no idea how to do this.

Firmware loaded fine, but there is no firmware that is compatible with a base map, they all give me warnings when I load the map.

Problem is, my car doesn't start. I can hear the fuel pump priming before I crank. I will check tonight if it gets fuel and spark. Then I'll also upload the logs here, as I don't have much time atm.

Hope someone can help me.

PS I made a new thread since as far as I know every car is different and the same probably goes for the DIYPNPs.
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Old 03-26-2016, 12:26 PM   #2
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I'd try the basemap from diyautotune's site. It started right up before I even set base timing. https://www.diyautotune.com/support/...3-mazda-miata/
The TPS isn't used on a 1.6 so there should be a resistor between the TPS input and ground to keep your throttle pegged at 0%. You'll want to upgrade to a linear TPS later, but it's not a problem until you get it running.
The injector wiring is just from INJ1 to 4U on the big plug and INJ2 to 4V.
I'd bet that a new startup map will get it running, then once you set timing you're ready to tune
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Old 03-26-2016, 02:39 PM   #3
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Ok so I finally got around to checking some things. When I pull (one of the) spark plugs after cranking it's not wet, but I can smell the petrol from the spark plug hole, so I figured the injectors are fine. Unless the engine is always emitting a petrol scent :P Don't know on how to test if the ignition works, since when I pull the fuel injector relay it also shuts off the MS itself so it doesn't even know when to spark.

What I did after that was: I made a new project, opened the tune for the 240cc injectors, which, because the firmwares do not match, gave me the warnings that are also attached in a TXT file.
And gave me an error message for conflicting boost pins, so I turned off boost control, which seemed to work fine.
After that I cranked the engine, still no start.
I started logging before I cranked so I'll attach the file to this post.
Fun fact, I can't use the detect function within TunerStudio, but if I manually choose the firmware and select the COM port it'll connect without any problem.

UPDATE: Okay I know the ignition works, I used the test feature in TunerStudio and I saw the spark. I'm still positive the car gets fuel as well, since both the cylinder and the exhaust smell like petrol after cranking. The map especially for the 240cc injectors still only cranks, the same goes for the MSPNP map from diyautotune.com. The ecu doesn't seem to get an RPM signal while cranking, which might be what's messing with starting. Apart from that it constantly has a TPS signal of around 40-50%, but I don't know if that's messing with anything. Also, is there a difference between the top (bigger) holes on the connector board and the lower (smaller) holes?

I also attached two logs and the tune with the MSPNP basemap.

UPDATE 2: I'm pretty sure the car doesn't start because of the fact it doesn't get an RPM signal. Whenever I crank there's no difference in the RPM, which is also visible in the logs. Is there any place on the board I can double check that's related to the RPM signal, as I'm getting sad by not being able to drive my car :P

I took some pictures of my mainboard, tried the 51K ohm resistor both on R20 and R21 and without it, but no luck.





Any help would be greatly appreciated!




There's a wire going from TPS to GND on the mainboard with a 1k Ohm resistor in between, saw the resistor between 4L and 4D in another thread but since 4D is already occupied I solved it like this. The TPS is now stuck on 0% so that's good.

UPDATE 3: Uploaded some logs and the tune I'm running now, which seem to not start a little better than the previous one xD
Attached Files
File Type: txt Firmware mismatch 3.4.1 27-3-2016.txt (5.5 KB, 335 views)
File Type: msq CurrentTune.msq (111.2 KB, 21 views)
File Type: msl 2016-03-27_15.44.32.msl (263.7 KB, 23 views)
File Type: msl 2016-03-27_15.18.32.msl (56.5 KB, 17 views)

Last edited by JaguarJay; 03-27-2016 at 11:20 AM. Reason: Update
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Old 03-27-2016, 12:26 PM   #4
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Ok it's been resolved, I'm an *ss and didn't properly check my wires, then checked them and then checked them again. I accidentally soldered the OPTO- wire to 4B instead of 4E. Car starts now, without many problems. Idle is pretty high but I don't have a timing light so I can't check the base timing right now. The engine idles at ~1500 rpm with "Timing for fixed advance" set at 10 deg and the "Trigger angle/offset" set at 8 deg. (set at fixed timing) Tried it at 4 deg and 0 deg but the engine idles really high with these options (up to 2k RPM). Of course I waited for the ASE and WUE to end before checking this.
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Old 03-27-2016, 12:47 PM   #5
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Make sure your idle valve settings are right. Mine idled high too before I ran the output test.
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Old 03-27-2016, 03:44 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by squeegee View Post
Make sure your idle valve settings are right. Mine idled high too before I ran the output test.
Okay I'll check that.. I'm wiring in the launch control ATM. Do I need either R21 or R20 to run it or will it run better (or not) without either one of the two?

UPDATE: Ok everything is fixed/working! Car idles really nicely atm (pretty much the same as stock). As you told me it was mainly the setting in the Idle control PWM%. Startup is still a little rough but that's something for another time/something I can live with. Now I only need someone to drive my car so I can fine tune the fuel & spark tables at different RPMs and loads, but that's irrelevant for this thread.

Last edited by JaguarJay; 03-28-2016 at 09:57 AM.
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Old 03-29-2016, 12:02 PM   #7
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Do not use R20 or R21 on a Miata install.
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