Innovative LC-2 calibration problems - Miata Turbo Forum - Boost cars, acquire cats.

Welcome to Miataturbo.net   Members
 


ECUs and Tuning Discuss Engine Management, Tuning, & Programming

Reply
 
 
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 03-07-2016, 09:05 PM   #1
Newb
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Houston, Tx
Posts: 5
Total Cats: 0
Default Innovative LC-2 calibration problems

Hey yall, my first post here

My 95M is currently mostly stock but I'm entering the realm of boost in the near future. Only mods are mspnp2 and Innovative LC-2 (work in progress...)

Wired up the LC-2 into my megasquirt using the provided options ports. Been trying to calibrate the sensor via manufacturers instructions and can't get it to calibrate or even finish calibrating for that matter.. After I reset the controller and power off everything, plug in the sensor and power back on, the status light on the controller flashes as its supposed to then after a few minuets starts flashing 3 times, then stays solid green for a second or so and repeats. Left it for 10 minuets and it just kept doing that. Getting a constant reading of 7.50 AFR in tunerstudio. Could it be a faulty sensor?
Yellowbird87fan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-09-2016, 06:53 PM   #2
Moderator
iTrader: (11)
 
sixshooter's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Tampa, Florida
Posts: 15,696
Total Cats: 1,563
Default

Very few of us are using the LC-2 at this point, but congrats on starting with the MS and wideband. That's the right way to begin.
sixshooter is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 03-09-2016, 07:21 PM   #3
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
 
wackbards's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Seattle
Posts: 615
Total Cats: 63
Default

I run an Innovate LC-2. I ran it pretty far down the header right before the cat on an old motor that has a pretty bad drinking problem. I killed a sensor trying to simulate narrowband and make it run at 12.8 AFR before I installed a MS. It kept loosing calibration quicker & quicker. It was totally black & nasty when I pulled it. It doesn't sound like this is really what you are experiencing.


here is the LC-2 manual:
http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/s...C-2_Manual.pdf


here is a summary of the error codes from the attached manual:


GREEN

No light=no power
flashing 2x/second=sensor warm up
quick series of flashing=sensor calibration
solid= lc-2 operational & taking readings


RED (repeats after pause like old “OBD” I CEL codes)

1=heater circuit short
2=heater circuit open
3=pump cell circuit shorted
4=pump cell circuit open
5=reference cell circuit shorted
6=reference cell circuit open
7=system error
8=sensor timing error (typically damaged sensor)
9=supply voltage too low

It kind of sounds like you aren't getting to full warm up? One important differentiator between the LC-1 & LC-2 is that the LC-2 does not separate the grounds for the signal and the heater circuits. Maybe you have a wiring issue?
wackbards is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-09-2016, 08:47 PM   #4
Ben
Supporting Vendor
iTrader: (33)
 
Ben's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: atlanta-ish
Posts: 12,689
Total Cats: 99
Default

Plug your laptop in and see what it's doing. Don't guess.

Sounds like the sensor is not warmed up. It will warm up faster with the engine running.

If it never warms up with the engine off, your wiring or your battery sucks.
Ben is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-09-2016, 09:01 PM   #5
Newb
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Houston, Tx
Posts: 5
Total Cats: 0
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ben View Post
Plug your laptop in and see what it's doing. Don't guess.

Sounds like the sensor is not warmed up. It will warm up faster with the engine running.

If it never warms up with the engine off, your wiring or your battery sucks.
I hooked it up to my laptop that night but wasnt sure how to see if it was fully warm, slowly learning tuner studio and Im totally new to LMprogrammer. The sensor was pretty damn hot to the touch when I touched it, not hot enough to burn though..

My battery probably sucks, I should mention that I came home to a dead battery before all this, ended up trying to calibrate it the first time with the battery hooked up to my other running car and it just kept flashing. The day after the battery tested with a bad cell so I bought a new battery and the controller did the same thing. Maybe I just need to run it for a bit with my old O2 to get a full charge on the new battery? Its also an AGM battery, which I've heard lots of mixed things about.

I figure even with a full charge if it still does the same thing Ill try wiring it to another 12v switched on like the window switch or something, and maybe grounding it to the chassis somewhere as opposed to the ground in the MS unit.
Yellowbird87fan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-09-2016, 09:04 PM   #6
Ben
Supporting Vendor
iTrader: (33)
 
Ben's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: atlanta-ish
Posts: 12,689
Total Cats: 99
Default

Dude, you can't ground the wideband through the ECU. Major fail. Ground the wb to the engine, near the ECU grounds.

tell me you didn't power it off the ECU too.
Ben is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-09-2016, 09:12 PM   #7
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
 
wackbards's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Seattle
Posts: 615
Total Cats: 63
Default

I'm not familiar with the PNP, but on my DIYPNP, there are both locations for signal ground for the 5v vref, and grounds for 12v. Because the LC-1 that most of the internet writeups document had a separate ground for both the heater & signal, I struggled a little bit when wiring the LC-2 to the MS. Make sure you ground it to a 12v ground, and not a signal ground. Both the 5v signal & 12v heater circuits share one ground on the LC-2.
wackbards is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-09-2016, 09:20 PM   #8
Newb
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Houston, Tx
Posts: 5
Total Cats: 0
Default

Dude, you can't ground the wideband through the ECU. Major fail. Ground the wb to the engine, near the ECU grounds.

tell me you didn't power it off the ECU too.





I did...
used the 12v switched and ground on the ms options ports..
Judging by your reaction I presume that is incorrect lol
Yellowbird87fan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-09-2016, 09:22 PM   #9
Newb
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Houston, Tx
Posts: 5
Total Cats: 0
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by wackbards View Post
I'm not familiar with the PNP, but on my DIYPNP, there are both locations for signal ground for the 5v vref, and grounds for 12v. Because the LC-1 that most of the internet writeups document had a separate ground for both the heater & signal, I struggled a little bit when wiring the LC-2 to the MS. Make sure you ground it to a 12v ground, and not a signal ground. Both the 5v signal & 12v heater circuits share one ground on the LC-2.
I used the 5a protected 12v port for power and chassis ground port for the single ground. Used the yellow wire for the 5v signal.
Yellowbird87fan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-09-2016, 10:54 PM   #10
Ben
Supporting Vendor
iTrader: (33)
 
Ben's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: atlanta-ish
Posts: 12,689
Total Cats: 99
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Yellowbird87fan View Post
I used the 5a protected 12v port for power and chassis ground port for the single ground. Used the yellow wire for the 5v signal.
Where exactly are these "ports"? They don't exist on a MSPNP.

If you are referring to the .5a 12V power on the d-sub, you have a divide by 10 error. It is rated for a HALF AMP, not 5 amps.

Wire the wideband more correctly, please.
Ben is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-10-2016, 09:34 PM   #11
Newb
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Houston, Tx
Posts: 5
Total Cats: 0
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ben View Post
Where exactly are these "ports"? They don't exist on a MSPNP.

If you are referring to the .5a 12V power on the d-sub, you have a divide by 10 error. It is rated for a HALF AMP, not 5 amps.

Wire the wideband more correctly, please.
On the mspnp2 there's a 26 pin connector on the back that has all sorts of optional connections you can add.

copied from pnp2 instructions;

On the back, there is a 26 pin connector. The connector has small numbers cast into it to identify which pin is which. ALL OF THESE CONNECTIONS ARE OPTIONAL AND NOT REQUIRED TO RUN YOUR CAR ON THE MSPNP! These are there keeping the DIY spirit alive, giving you the power to add new capabilities to your vehicle!

1.Cam sensor input
2.Table switch input
3.Clutch Switch
4.Tach output
5.Chassis Ground
6.Switched 12VDC (0.5A Max)
7.Boost control solenoid
8.Injector A output
9.Injector B output
10.Knock sensor input
11.CANBus high
12.CANBus low
13.Launch control input
14.Spark D output
15.Spark C output
16.Spark B output
17.Spark A output
18.Injector C output
19.External MAP sensor input
20.IAT sensor input
21.Oxygen sensor input
22.Signal Ground
23.5VDC Vref
24."ALED" relay control
25."WLED" relay control
26.Injector D Output

With that being said I now notice it does say .5a not 5a.... So I do need to find a new power source.. major derp on my part
Yellowbird87fan is offline   Reply With Quote
 
 
Reply

Related Topics
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Calling any wiring gurus ryankpeck General Miata Chat 24 03-19-2016 08:52 PM
ABS Swap Wiring Questions aidandj Suspension, Brakes, Drivetrain 0 03-06-2016 12:40 AM
FLASH SPARCO SALE! Save on ALL SPARCO! FAB Fab9 Tuning - Miata Performance Parts 1 03-01-2016 03:52 PM


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 02:56 PM.