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Old 10-14-2009, 11:43 PM   #61
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Considering that because we didn't scope the idle valve frequency before yanking the computer out so we unplugged the valve and turned the bleed screw to idle at 1k rpm, I'd say it idled pretty damn good.
I just set the number for "8". I think it should be ~9 or 10, but this wasn't an option when I set it up. It's worked well for a year or more, so I'm not too worried. MS people blame my lack of luck with closed loop idle on the set up, but the PWM Warmup works excellent. It's effectively what you did, only, it varies with coolant temp. Highly recommended.

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Don't know why myself, but I'm told that it's common for the uS to be happy with noiser triggers than the MS2 is.
Huh. Sure wish I knew why. I imagine it uses the same, edge detection code....

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That's freaking cool. I already have a knocksense, FM mount, and GM sensor though. Oh well. The FM mount is probably in a better location anyway. Maybe.
Dunno. I would imagine Mazda put the knock sensor in a good place for knock sensing. Certainly it's as equidistant from all cyl as one sensor can be, and height-wise it's ideal.

I had a knocksense (non MS version) which I sold and went over to this set up. No regrets. Just pulled some timing today on my lunch because of it, and the car was SO much more fun on the drive home. :-)

Do you use the "aggressive" settings?

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Most people would find it easier to put in a CAS. Which makes me think... I based my new timing table off my 91's dyno tuned tabe vs 1.6 stock compared against a stock 99 table. Makes me wonder about error in the old style CAS.
NO NO NO NO NO!

NO CAS! Worst idea ever.

Sure, using any sort of a crank trigger (Mazda OEM included) you should be able to run at least 2* more timing, safely.

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Answers are a little ambiguous because once I got the car running, it only stayed that way for a few days. I've pulled the DIYPNP out of the car and reconfigured it for parallel operation. I've almost finished the wiring harness. A trip to Frys for some more wire and heatshrink will get it finished. Can't believe I used a 100' spool of wire!!

Sure hope I can get CEL-free parallel operation.
Good luck with the parallel set up. I hate it myself, but don't have your.. special constraints. :-) It'll open up more IO which is a plus
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Old 10-15-2009, 07:06 AM   #62
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@Ben:

I just cross-checked your spreadsheet for the 99 and (apart from the fuelpump pin - which will be 4P for the European models - and I suppose for all with factory immobilizer) I stumbled across your injector wiring.

You have 4W, 4X (OEM ECU 3W,3X) for INJ 1 and 4Y,4Z (OEM ECU 3Y,3Z) for INJ2.

As I have my megasquirt running (and the "How to Megasquirt... thread shows) I have 3W,3Y on INJ1 and 3X,3Z on INJ2.



Who is doing it wrong?
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Old 10-15-2009, 10:55 AM   #63
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Originally Posted by AbeFM View Post
I had a knocksense (non MS version) which I sold and went over to this set up. No regrets. Just pulled some timing today on my lunch because of it, and the car was SO much more fun on the drive home. :-)

Do you use the "aggressive" settings?
Car's metaphorically on cylinder blocks right now. I'll let you know next week.


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NO NO NO NO NO!

NO CAS! Worst idea ever.

Sure, using any sort of a crank trigger (Mazda OEM included) you should be able to run at least 2* more timing, safely.
All makes sense. I have a good mind to go ahead and pop on this trigger wheel.
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Good luck with the parallel set up. I hate it myself, but don't have your.. special constraints. :-) It'll open up more IO which is a plus
What, you don't have freakin' emissions?

I honestly didn't need any more I/O. Plus there's a CANBUS enabled I/O expander board coming through the pipeline.

I just want the bitch to pass emissions.
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Old 10-15-2009, 10:56 AM   #64
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@Ben:

I just cross-checked your spreadsheet for the 99 and (apart from the fuelpump pin - which will be 4P for the European models - and I suppose for all with factory immobilizer) I stumbled across your injector wiring.

You have 4W, 4X (OEM ECU 3W,3X) for INJ 1 and 4Y,4Z (OEM ECU 3Y,3Z) for INJ2.

As I have my megasquirt running (and the "How to Megasquirt... thread shows) I have 3W,3Y on INJ1 and 3X,3Z on INJ2.



Who is doing it wrong?
We're both correct. It's batch fired. One way might idle better than the other, but under any sort of load there is no difference. It idled fine my way. And it's getting converted over to sequential anyway.
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Old 10-19-2009, 02:35 PM   #65
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Hi Ben,

one more question - I have seen, that you have in your spreadsheet that the trigger should be set to rising edge - in Abe's thread with the MSQ for his adapterboard he recently wrote, that it should be falling edge. What is correct. I have my "old" MS2 with Abe's circuit also set to falling edge.

Have you got your sequential set-up?

Greets
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Old 10-19-2009, 03:18 PM   #66
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It runs on rising edge. Have not tried falling edge. Falling edge is probably better.

Still have not picked up my sequential card. I have not had time.
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Old 10-19-2009, 06:14 PM   #67
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It's easy to switch it, aside from the timing jumpng by a few degrees. The issue is at low speed, one edge is unreliable (as when starting) and the motor will really misbehave.

Your inputs are inverting, on the crank?
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Old 10-19-2009, 07:10 PM   #68
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I had trouble starting but it didn't seem to be a synch error. It got a lot better after messing the the VE table and CSE.

I'm 1' of heatshrink tubing away from finishing the harness and the car running again. I also want to go ahead and pick up the sequential card. One day this week I'll have time time, hopefully...
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Old 10-27-2009, 05:22 PM   #69
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Finished my "boomslang" harness for parallel installation and all needed changes to the DIYPNP.

Tomorrow I hope to pick up a sequential injection card from DIY Autotune.

Also am installing a 10,000 uF cap between +12V and gnd on the adapter board. Figure it can't hurt. Need to run 2 wires from under the dash to the coils to get individual coils working.

Hopefully then it's done.
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Old 10-28-2009, 05:54 PM   #70
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'99-'00 application docs and base map are up:

DIYPNP MegaSquirt by DIYAutoTune.com
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Old 10-28-2009, 05:59 PM   #71
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I'm not smart enough for this thread

Nice work though!
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Old 10-28-2009, 09:12 PM   #72
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DIYPNP is complete. I got the sequential board today and installed it. I loaded the new firmware to the DIYPNP and finally changed the settings to enable sequential. Unfortunately I had some sort of a software issue, and it took me several hours to get sequential set up in software correctly. Luckily, James on the MS2Extra site gave me a push in the direction I needed to fix the issue, and now we're good to go.

The seq card uses outputs PT6 and PT7 for injector drivers 3 and 4. I was previously using these outputs for VICS and cooling fan. Because the DIYPNP is going back in parallel with the stock computer, I let the stock unit take over cooling fan activation. The stock computer will also run the idle valve--though I hear DIY Autotune has closed loop idle working very well on the 99 now. MS will be controlling VICS still, but I moved it over to the IAC output. IAC is wired now wired to 4Q (if memory serves). IAC can drive a relay directly, so no need to run it through one of the internal relays. I removed the flyback diode from R5.

So tomorrow I'll reinstall it.
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Old 10-29-2009, 08:38 AM   #73
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Great work... I keep the fingers crossed. Mine is also ready for going standalone... Gonna try today or tomorrow.
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Old 10-30-2009, 05:13 PM   #74
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DIYPNP is now installed in parallel with stock computer. Car is running.

No CELs from idling and rev'ing in the garage. If/when the rain stops, I will button the install up and try a test drive.
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Old 10-30-2009, 06:08 PM   #75
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So, are there enough outputs that you could do the full sequential AND maintain the rest? I've been more interested in this, I thought you could grab signals off the MSII card directly in a v3pcb, so perhaps you could get it on what you've got...
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Old 10-30-2009, 06:17 PM   #76
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With sequential injection and ignition, I believe there were only 2 spare outputs. I am using them for VICS and EBC.

I actually do NOT have sequential running right now, due to lack of a 2nd trigger. I'll address that soon enough. I had to give up using the factory sensors as sharing them threw codes.

Idle valve and cooling fans are run off the stock computer.

There is one more output on the card, but code is not written for it yet, so right now it's meaningless.
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Old 10-30-2009, 06:20 PM   #77
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Ben's parallel install is pretty cool, and I'm sure some of you will decide to go that route, but for what it's worth the DIYPNP we just tuned in a 99 here was controlling idle very well. We idled it slightly higher than stock, but that's fairly normal with a standalone and helps it compensate for sudden load easier, which it was doing a good job of. I had that sucker pulling me up small hills with no throttle input, just slowly release the clutch in first and watch the idle valve open to compensate and away you go (slowly).
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Old 10-30-2009, 06:23 PM   #78
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Originally Posted by FoundSoul View Post
Ben's parallel install is pretty cool, and I'm sure some of you will decide to go that route, but for what it's worth the DIYPNP we just tuned in a 99 here was controlling idle very well. We idled it slightly higher than stock, but that's fairly normal with a standalone and helps it compensate for sudden load easier, which it was doing a good job of. I had that sucker pulling me up small hills with no throttle input, just slowly release the clutch in first and watch the idle valve open to compensate and away you go (slowly).
I believe Dave is very happy with how his car turned out.

Thank you so much Jerry. And thanks to Matt and Russ for their tech support/hand holding.
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Old 10-30-2009, 06:31 PM   #79
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Did you end up using the stock sensor, or going with that VR sensor and 60-2 wheel?

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So, are there enough outputs that you could do the full sequential AND maintain the rest? I've been more interested in this, I thought you could grab signals off the MSII card directly in a v3pcb, so perhaps you could get it on what you've got...
Abe, im sure you know we can do full sequential on our cars too. Again, Jean has a board that can give us full sequential. It cost in the range of 50 bucks though.
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Old 10-30-2009, 07:09 PM   #80
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Abe, im sure you know we can do full sequential on our cars too. Again, Jean has a board that can give us full sequential. It cost in the range of 50 bucks though.
It's not the cost I'm worried about... It's I/O...

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With sequential injection and ignition, I believe there were only 2 spare outputs. I am using them for VICS and EBC.

I actually do NOT have sequential running right now, due to lack of a 2nd trigger. I'll address that soon enough. I had to give up using the factory sensors as sharing them threw codes.

Idle valve and cooling fans are run off the stock computer.

There is one more output on the card, but code is not written for it yet, so right now it's meaningless.
Sequential ignition? Ah. There's something I would just plain lose. If you are running something like toyota COP's (cheaper than two sets of plug wires), you could save two I/O channels, AND have better performance. I would totally go this route.

You can't share the factory inputs? You should be able to if your input circuit is decent. The pull up is already there in the factory unit, so leave that out and share it. The current into the caps is minimal (leave it out if you're worried) and the current into anything active like an op-amp is so close to zero you couldn't measure it if you tried. If you want to do it as an experiment... Let me know.
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