messiahx

iTrader: (2)

So I wanted to use electronic boost control and realized that the only output I had available to do that was PA0 which I had been using to turn on my radiator fan. So I switched the PA0 output to the IN point for boost control and it works great. I didn't get to play with it long, though, because I noticed my CLTs were well past the allowed 207 when I pulled over to play with settings. Sure enough, no radiator fan.

I have the WLED output at the top of the board (near the DB9) connected to the IN on RELAY 1. I copied settings over from PA0 to WLED (1 and 1, coolant > 207, hysteresis 10, no additional conditions) but the fan just isn't turning on.

I made sure the connection for WLED was good from the Microsquirt to the IN port on the relay. 0 ohms. All I did was move the wire. Any suggestions?

Reverant

iTrader: (10)

Do you have a pullup on WLED?

messiahx

iTrader: (2)

Nope. I read somewhere on here that it wasn't used except for ignition purposes.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

Use PA0 for fan, then PT7 for boost...

miatauser884

iTrader: (11)

maybe try reducing hysteresis from 10 to 2

I have

PM5 is green
power on value = 1
trigger value = 1
output channel = coolant > 196
hysteresis 2

I'm still using PAO for boost, WLED for fan, ALED for VICS

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

why? I like to turn them on at 200 and off again at 190.

power on value should be 0.

Ben

iTrader: (33)

Try using a much lower coolant turn on value until you get your settings dialed in. WLED can drive a relay directly; you don't need to run it through a relay circuit on the main board.

messiahx

iTrader: (2)

I'm running sequential so I can't do this.

WLED can drive a relay directly; you don't need to run it through a relay circuit on the main board.

^^Will try this before work and post results. I didn't realize WLED could do that. Haha, if I knew how to read, the DIYPNP Outputs page even says that!

messiahx

iTrader: (2)

That was the problem. Works just fine driven directly by wled. Thanks for the help!