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You can try jumping FP and GND in the diagnostic box on the driver side. That is what was keeping mine from starting. I have MsPnp.

 

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(zack morris's phone)

Sounds like a huge vacuum leak.

Still confused how the fuel pump primes but wont stay on without the jumper..

 

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Lol, totally understand the loud exhaust. I caught my neighbor giving me the evil eye out their window yesterday while i was messing with my idle. They are less than 300ft from my garage and the car exhaust is pointed at them.

My idle was really high when I started it for the first time, I'm kinda new to all this also. I got mine down by
1. sync CAS with the ms
2. follow hornet's instruction for setting idle.

These steps helped me get down to the 900 range. I also had to lower the cold temp idle speed.

You can hear the pump come on with the ignition, or you here the relay? I never heard the pump until I jumped it. I jus routed a wire into the cabin with a toggle. Definitely not my choice but works for now.

 

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The switch is just a signal disruptor. I only hooked into the fuel line (light green) wire going into the diagnostic box and left the jumper in the box. the switch stays on all the time to run the FP and make sure you put it somewhere it won't get bumped or shut off by accident.

It's the ghetto way but it works. I just bought a toggle switch with safety cover and reversed the direction. now closed is FP on, and open with switch up is FP off.
[IMG][/IMG]

you can see the switch with red cover is up and open so the FP is off in this pic.

 

hornet's instructions won't help him very much on a diypnp.

I've never had a MS that increased the idle speed in such a way unless there was a huge vacuum leak, like the pcv or brake boost lines were left unplugged.


If st_sign fuse is pulled, and the F/P GND jumper is removed, and you hear the fuel pump prime with key on, the MS is doing its job and controlling the pump.

If you have a 90-93, left the st_sign fuse in, and the f/p jumper is removed, you will hear the FP prime, but the MS is no longer controlling the relay...the driver has been damaged.


I don't like this switch, you should have just repaired your MSPNP unit after you failed to remove your st_sign fuse and damaged the dirver that activated the pump within the MSPNP unit.

 

Well there is your answer. Does running it this way pose any real threat to the system in some other fashion?

I bought mine used, followed the installation instructions, and removed the fuse plus ignitor before the install. so it must have been done by the previous owner.

The best thing is obviously to repair my MS but I can't solder. So the easiest solution to get me running without forking out more cash was the switch without the ST_SGN fuse.

Since you were able to build it yourself you should be able to do it the right way and repair it.

 

Running it that way is fine, just not recommended. If you get in an accident, you must remember to turn off your ignition or flip the switch.

the repair is very cheap and very simple.

 

I did think of the accident situation which is the main thought behind the switch. I do want to run it correctly and have the unit repaired, but I need the car running and once I get some down time I'll have it repaired the right way.

 

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no. im sure the timing is WAY off.

 

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doesnt sound synced.

map loaded should be ~15* at idle, but at 3K i can see 28*

 

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that's more than likely lack of fuel. try to add say 10 points throughout the entire VE table, see how it likes that.