DIYPNP with Peak and Hold Driver - Sequential INJ - Miata Turbo Forum - Boost cars, acquire cats.

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Old 05-28-2013, 03:42 PM   #1
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Default DIYPNP with Peak and Hold Driver - Sequential INJ

I've run out of injectors sooner than I would like. I have some Low Impedance RC Engineering 550cc injectors that are cleaned and tested and want to use them. Since my car is a 93 california car, it is already wired for sequential injection, so I figured I would take advantage. I plan on picking up the Sequential Injection mod for the DIYPNP. How would I wire up JBPerf's Peak & Hold driver to the DIYPNP? I think I could figure it out if I had the parts in front of me, but I want to make sure it's as simple as it seems. Would I pull the inputs for each injector from INJ1 and INJ2 on the microsquirt header and then INJ3 and INJ4 from the add-on board? Would that require grounding the add-on board as if hooking up for low impedance injectors?

Are there any other modifications needed to the board or uS module? I'd like to fully understand the wiring required before purchasing.
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Old 05-29-2013, 02:33 PM   #2
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Does the JB Perf P&H board not use *logic* injector triggers? If so, the Microsquirt Module has the logic triggers broken out on its 10 pin header--Alt inj1, Alt inj2, PT6, PT7
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Old 05-29-2013, 03:46 PM   #3
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According to JBs documentation, the inputs are active-low (ground to activate), so it connects to the ECU as though it were a set of injectors.

jbperf.com/p&h_board/index.html
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Old 05-29-2013, 08:33 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe Perez View Post
According to JBs documentation, the inputs are active-low (ground to activate), so it connects to the ECU as though it were a set of injectors.

jbperf.com/p&h_board/index.html
Looks like it's logic driven to me (+5V).
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Old 05-29-2013, 08:53 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ben View Post
Does the JB Perf P&H board not use *logic* injector triggers? If so, the Microsquirt Module has the logic triggers broken out on its 10 pin header--Alt inj1, Alt inj2, PT6, PT7
This was confirmed by Jean in an email. It uses the 5v outputs on the 10 pin header of the microsquirt. The sequential fuel add on is NOT required to run 4 injectors sequentially with the P&H driver, either. Time to place an order!
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Old 05-31-2013, 01:07 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ben View Post
Looks like it's logic driven to me (+5V).
Is it?

I wrote that from my phone while on the *******, so I didn't look at the drawings. I was going by the written description.
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Old 05-31-2013, 01:31 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe Perez View Post
Is it?

I wrote that from my phone while on the *******, so I didn't look at the drawings. I was going by the written description.
I think you may have been distracted with more pressing business. The board you linked to is clearly driven by the logic level outputs. There are other p&h solutions out there that are triggered by standard ground-level injector outputs.
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Old 06-08-2013, 07:08 PM   #8
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In case anybody else is looking to do the same with their DIYPNP, here is how it has to be mounted:



I used 10mm spacers from radioshack and mounted it in the second slot, which isn't ideal. I'd recommend 3/16" spacers and leave it in the bottom slot, but I couldn't find any locally. I didn't realize how much wider the DIYPNP case is than standard MS cases. I also cleaned the paint off and polished the area where the transistors mount for better conduction. The closer to mirror finish, the better the heat transfer. Hopefully mine isn't too unpolished...

I'm also wiring everything into connectors so when I remove the top of the case I can unplug this add-on. I would have finished it today, but I ran out of solder
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DIYPNP with Peak and Hold Driver - Sequential INJ-6jmhtac.jpg  
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Old 06-13-2013, 05:20 PM   #9
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You serious about that wiring? That's a big
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Old 06-14-2013, 09:12 AM   #10
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You serious about that wiring? That's a big
I've never soldered before building the DIYPNP, then this. What's wrong with it? This picture is before putting heat shrink on the wires.
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Old 06-14-2013, 02:34 PM   #11
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Yeah, that's what I meant, wires needs to be pushed in all the way (or heat shrinked)
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