wrxrick

I'm planning to do a DIYBOB for my 99' Miata.

Update:

I followed trubokitty's MS3/MS3X tutorial, but still am confused about:

1H BATT from fuel injection fuse 30A on stock oem connector and
1A BATT room fused 10A on stock oem connector...

These two oem 99' pins look important but aren't connected to megasquirt, via trubokitty's tutorials. Are they assuming we still have to run a new power wire from battery which is linked to a new aftermarket relay, fuse box, etc etc? I have a feeling that's not it. I have a feeling we won't need to run an aftermarket power wire, relay, etc. and that this trubokitty tutorial makes it as pnp as possible using oem main power wire, oem main relay, etc. etc.

Thanks.

If I'm using a DIYBOB and oem ecu connectors, do I still need to run an aftermarket power wire from the battery to an aftermarket relay, to the ignition switch, to an aftermarket fuse box, etc. etc. etc.? Or would I let the cars stock oem main relay, main fuse, main harness do everything?

No pnp here, I want to learn the hard way

Pic 1: showing stock oem 99' connector ecu pin out diagram, showing 1A and 1H which I'm confused about.


Pic 2: This is a picture showing the seperate circuits - which I won't want to build if I don't have to. I assume I don't have to since a PNP model doesn't require user to create separate circuits. I assume I can use OEM wiring for the oem main relay, oem power wire, oem circuits as much as possible.

acedeuce802

iTrader: (1)

There's no reason to ever use a separate power wire/fuse box/etc, just use the stock wiring. Go to trubomiata.net and follow through the MS3x guide there. Not all pins are used. There are things the stock ECU uses for emissions, idle control, etc that a standalone doesn't.

wrxrick

Ok. So the many megasquirt wiring diagrams showing the added battery power wire, the aftermarket relay box, aftermarket fuse box, etc. only pertains to users not utilizing their existing car's oem main relay, fuse, etc. right? Just confirming
I guess many people don't use their factory car main relay, fuse, etc. which doesn't seem as logical to me. I would assume if your car has it, why not use it? Unless completely using a megasquirt wiring harness and ditching the factory engine harness completely

Do you guy's know of any I/O on miata's that I should use that aren't required by MS3/MS3x? I want close to oem drivability and function as possible but without emissions, etc.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

Trubokitty.com

wrxrick

Update:

I followed trubokitty's MS3/MS3X tutorial, but still am confused about:

1H BATT from fuel injection fuse 30A on stock oem connector and
1A BATT room fused 10A on stock oem connector...

these two oem 99' pins look important but aren't connected to megasquirt, via trubokitty's tutorials. Are they assuming we still have to run a new power wire from battery which is linked to a new aftermarket relay, fuse box, etc etc? I have a feeling that's not it. I have a feeling we won't need to run an aftermarket power wire, relay, etc. and that this trubokitty tutorial makes it as pnp as possible using oem main power wire, oem main relay, etc. etc.

Thanks.

wrxrick

thank you. I went to trubomiata and it helped a lot but I'm still confused about pin 1H (BATT from fuel injection fuse 30A) and pin 1A (BATT room fused 10) which trubokitty isn't explaining. He didn't show them going to the DB-37 connectors on MS3/MS3X...

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

1A and 1H are both hot at all times, MS does not need constant power supply.

MS is powered through 1B via the Main Relay when you turn on the ignition switch.


My trubokitty docs will get you running.

wrxrick

thank you so much for sharing your knowledge to us here on the miata and megasquirt community. I'm following your advice and website, and it's a life-saver. Thanks for saving me so much time. You rock