Mudflap

That is very cool. I want to try getting mine setup when I (someday) get running. Can you share what HP/psi you are at? Are you mainly only hitting spark retard? On that launch am I hearing spark cut as well as you over-rev?

Bronson M

iTrader: (1)

Never been on a Dyno, but judging by 1/4 mile mph (106) and fuel used it's solidly in the mid 2xx range. Boost pressure is 10psi at 4k ramping to 13psi at 5k trying to keep rod bending torque at Bay. This is with a free flowing intake on a 2560.

I'm getting into spark cut quite a bit, the timing retard and boost reduction does help but honestly it's probably only 25% of what's stopping the wheel spin, spark cut is doing the rest.

psyber_0ptix

iTrader: (4)

Can't wait for the write up

Bronson M

iTrader: (1)

Another update, got the traction control working on the LS. It's not quite as effective since it doesn't have boost to reduce now days but still makes a drastic difference in keeping the tire on the car. I am noticing that the amount of timing retard I'm seeing in the log is way less than the tables I'm setting up. I.E. At 50%slip/time I should be at 20 degrees of retard and I'm only seeing 8-10 degrees, odd. Since I lost the speed in the trans I added a wheel speed sensor on the one back wheel on the same side of the car as the front, I see less of a variance than I saw before while cornering. We'll see if that makes it usable on track.

One last finding, data log in is not a high speed input and even when using a signal divider I got some very odd drop outs at low and high speed. I swapped to the flex input and all is well in the world now, I had plans for flex fuel but we'll cross that bridge when we get there.

Bronson M

iTrader: (1)

talking to myself here, but figured I'd update. Having both wheel speed sensors on the same side of the car seems to have made the TCC effective for road course work. It doesn't let you be completely idiotic but I was way more ham fisted with the throttle than I could be otherwise. This makes sense in that it keeps the rear wheel speed in the 3-5 mph range of the fronts so the back end is going to step out but not get away from me. If you listen carefully you can hear a little spark cut coming out of keyhole, you of course can't hear the spark retard but that was usually enough to keep things in check. You can see my TPS position on the dash tablet, the spark cut light comes on as it first engages but stays on for quite a while, have no idea why that is, probably a shadow dash thing.