not pointless, keep up the good work

 

Ice water @32 degrees F and Boiling @212 degrees F will give you the most controlled temps rather than trying to read a thermometer in between. Very little correction needed unless you are on top of a mountain.

 

kinda hard to boil water out near the car so your water would no longer be 212. thermometer sits in the cup/pot with the sensor. it's got a big dial on it. not difficult at all

 

what he's refering to is this: http://diyautotune.com/tech_articles...alculation.htm

 

we aren't questioning the temp curves of the sensors, there seems to be plenty of info on that. resistor bias settings are the matter being discussed/argued and with that i will start my next post

 

as I said earlier I used this exact same method(trial and error) to determine the "correct" bias resistor settings for Compy's 01. He owns an OBDII scanner which displays the CLT and IAT. He read them with the MS connected and the IAT is off just as I had proposed due to the R4 resistor in MS. Obviously CLT was unchanged since R7 is omitted.

Now onto checking if my Bias resistor settings in Easytherm are accurate. So unplug the MS. scan the stock ecu. car has been sitting in garage all day so the temps are stable at ~53F according to the scanner. Plug in ECU with my values burned to MS, megatune shows 53 for both IAT and CLT.

So it seems for the 2001 with the stock sensors being used and going through the factory wiring bias resistance of 1500 for for CLT and 1300 for IAT work perfectly.

according to Jason Reverents CLT figure(1550) was right there too but his IAT number through it off like 26 degrees at 53F

the temp resistance pairs i used were:
CLT
-20C, 16200
20C, 2450
80C, 320

IAT
0C, 6000
20C, 2450
80C, 320

 

 

Nice. Glad you figured it out. Now install one on my Subaru in parallel. Thanks.

 

heads up, i have nothing stopping me this weekend so i will be able to try this out

lets look at the tarrot cards-
Paul, i forsee in your near future that you will get a long distance phone call from a troubled soul asking for help and as a kind man that you are you will be more than happy to help out to this troubled soul that is pretty ******* clueless on what he is doint with the MS he got...
Maybe

 

too bad i don't believe in that ****.

 

****

 

Paul, we tried you values this weekend and seem to be spot on. FWIW, if you are piggyback and have r7 installed, use 910 for the CLT bias.

 

I am a bit confused, what bias resistance for CLT did paul wind up using? Was that with R7 installed or uninstalled?

My car runs fine with the temp pegging at 215 in MS, but it would be nice to have it a bit more accurate.

 

paul used 1425, his R7 wasnt installed.

R7 is 2490, so the formula goes something like....

R = 1 / (1 / R1 + 1 / R2)

1/1.425 + 1/2.490 = 1.102

1/1.102 = .907

so i rounded up slightly to 910. there you havez it.

 

Ok, so my next question is. Before pauls discovery, were people using the default easy therm values for their cars?

I ask because 96-97's use 1500, and his isnt that year. Why is his Bias that?

 

1425 and 1500 is probably close enough. you would be able to tell a difference from one to the other.

paul got that number because he was smart and actually measured the resistance.

i did the smae with the 1.6L ecu, but never had a 94-95 to play with the confirm the values.

 

No, you dont understand. If his 94-95 is 1425 and my 96-97 is 1500(could be 1425 too) could it be that his car may be using a different ECU?

Is everyone else using the stock values, or what. I mean up until now theoretically everyone with a 94-95 we have been recommending the default easy therm values, how are their cars running.

My next question is this, is he reusing his stock wiring for AIT?

 

Yes he is using stock wiring for IAT.

 

Then do me a small favor. Edit his first post and write that so people dont get thrown off as to why his AIT bias is the way it is.

 

Done