Electronics are clearly NOT my specialty. MS was worky, now no worky.
#1
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Electronics are clearly NOT my specialty. MS was worky, now no worky.
As the title states, Electronics are not my specialty at all. I was working today to do a few things to the car. I was trying to get my cops running in sequential (Couldnt get spark in output test mode) Tried to get my variable tps to work. and finally I tried to get my fan control to work again. When I tried my fans, I was testing for voltage with the car on, I ended up accidentally touching the 12v in to the fan output, either that or 12v to IAC1B. Im not entirely sure which two touched, all I know is that two wires touched, and one of them was the 12v. heard a bit of a pop. and the MS shut down. The computer was connected at the time, and went offline as soon as this happened. I cannot get the computer to reconnect to MS.
The LEDs do not turn on currently. I am still getting 12v in at the harness. I pulled the ecu apart and see nothing blown, but I havent gotten the chance to check anything with a meter yet, mainly because Im not sure where to start.
Anyone have any thoughts of what to do or check?
Anyways, pics below:
The LEDs do not turn on currently. I am still getting 12v in at the harness. I pulled the ecu apart and see nothing blown, but I havent gotten the chance to check anything with a meter yet, mainly because Im not sure where to start.
Anyone have any thoughts of what to do or check?
Anyways, pics below:
Last edited by Gryff; 01-31-2012 at 11:48 AM.
#3
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I can try again once I get back to the car. but at the time, I tried to connect to the ecu, and the laptop would not connect. When it happened the ecu was connected to the laptop, and TS went offline.
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Ok, The car is at my friends house, which I cant get to until tomorrow at the earliest. Are there any other things to check after trying to reload firmware, that way I have a list of things to check
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Bump,
Anyone have any other suggestions, I haven't been to the car yet. but I don't want to go all the way to the car, just to try reloading the firmware and have it not work afterall. If there is a list of things I can check while im at the car, I feel like I would at least be able to narrow things down, in the event that the firmware isnt the issue.
Also Matt, Just to make sure we are on the same page, The car was running prior to this, I was mentioning the spark outputs because it was something I was messing with a few minutes prior to having issues. Mentioning the leds is just me saying that the leds that turn on when the ms is powered up arent turning on currently.
Anyone have any other suggestions, I haven't been to the car yet. but I don't want to go all the way to the car, just to try reloading the firmware and have it not work afterall. If there is a list of things I can check while im at the car, I feel like I would at least be able to narrow things down, in the event that the firmware isnt the issue.
Also Matt, Just to make sure we are on the same page, The car was running prior to this, I was mentioning the spark outputs because it was something I was messing with a few minutes prior to having issues. Mentioning the leds is just me saying that the leds that turn on when the ms is powered up arent turning on currently.
#7
You can also try this voltage check to look for short circuits: power up the Megasquirt on a Stimulator or on the car and check the following points for voltage with a multimeter.
You should find the same voltage as the battery voltage on the following points: S12, S12C, the center legs of Q9 and Q12, the left (non-banded) end of D3, the left leg of U5, and the left (banded) end of D9.
You should have 5 volts at the following points: S5, the two +5V holes in the proto area, the right (non-banded) end of D9, the right leg of U5, the left (banded) end of D19, and pins 1, 20, and 31 of the CPU.
I do not, however, have a flowchart for how to follow this check up at present.
You should find the same voltage as the battery voltage on the following points: S12, S12C, the center legs of Q9 and Q12, the left (non-banded) end of D3, the left leg of U5, and the left (banded) end of D9.
You should have 5 volts at the following points: S5, the two +5V holes in the proto area, the right (non-banded) end of D9, the right leg of U5, the left (banded) end of D19, and pins 1, 20, and 31 of the CPU.
I do not, however, have a flowchart for how to follow this check up at present.
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It was JS0/IAC1A, If I recall correctly.
Regardless, Im going to do these tests just to make sure, And im taking my 1.6 injectors and ecu to get the car drivable at the very least.
Regardless, Im going to do these tests just to make sure, And im taking my 1.6 injectors and ecu to get the car drivable at the very least.
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If you touched 12v to pretty much any wires that directly interfaces with the CPU, the CPU is fried.
Unfortunately, microprocessors just aren't very tolerant of voltages higher than VDD on their I/O pins. This is why most (all?) of the external analog and switch-sensing circuits you see in the MS "hacks" section have series resistors and zener diodes in them- to protect the ECU from this specific condition.
Unfortunately, microprocessors just aren't very tolerant of voltages higher than VDD on their I/O pins. This is why most (all?) of the external analog and switch-sensing circuits you see in the MS "hacks" section have series resistors and zener diodes in them- to protect the ECU from this specific condition.
#13
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If you touched 12v to pretty much any wires that directly interfaces with the CPU, the CPU is fried.
Unfortunately, microprocessors just aren't very tolerant of voltages higher than VDD on their I/O pins. This is why most (all?) of the external analog and switch-sensing circuits you see in the MS "hacks" section have series resistors and zener diodes in them- to protect the ECU from this specific condition.
Unfortunately, microprocessors just aren't very tolerant of voltages higher than VDD on their I/O pins. This is why most (all?) of the external analog and switch-sensing circuits you see in the MS "hacks" section have series resistors and zener diodes in them- to protect the ECU from this specific condition.
The good news is I have a few people local that possibly have spare daughtercards. I may just get one from one of them.
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Would you really have a use for it?
Edit: Random thought, I cant find the little terminator plug for connecting to innovate (change back to narrow band signal for stock ecu) Does anyone have any experience with connecting to innovate with just the one connector and no terminating plug?
Edit: Random thought, I cant find the little terminator plug for connecting to innovate (change back to narrow band signal for stock ecu) Does anyone have any experience with connecting to innovate with just the one connector and no terminating plug?
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Lars was telling me that one could do that, or send it to http://www.pftuning.com/
But he said that cost you quite a bit of money back when ms3 was brand new.
If I get a new board im sure we could figure something out.
But he said that cost you quite a bit of money back when ms3 was brand new.
If I get a new board im sure we could figure something out.