Enormous problem, bigger headache.
#21
^Funny thing is, in his msq the fixed angle is at -10, so the MS SHOULD be responding based on the spark map, and not at a fixed angle.
You forgot to mention that you have to set the fixed angle back to -10 after you set the base timing, otherwise it will be "fixed" at +10, or whatever you set with the CAS.
You forgot to mention that you have to set the fixed angle back to -10 after you set the base timing, otherwise it will be "fixed" at +10, or whatever you set with the CAS.
If he set his base timing by adjusting his trigger angle, and then loaded someone elses map. He would have to adjust his trigger angle in the new map. If he tried to run it "as is" the timing would be off. Another point for: "Reasons not to blindly uploaded other peoples maps."
I'm wondering if this could be the culprit. Did he adjust the trigger angle in your map to match his setup?
#22
Ah. Megatune uses a fixed timing value of -10 to "use map." So, with Megatune you set fixed timing to +10 and change trigger angle until you get to +10 on the dampener with your timing light, then change it back to -10 and MS will set spark angle according to your map.
I don't even know if he used my map at all. I just found it odd that the spark angle in the log didn't change at all. Maybe this dude should be left to his own destructive devices at this point?
I don't even know if he used my map at all. I just found it odd that the spark angle in the log didn't change at all. Maybe this dude should be left to his own destructive devices at this point?
#23
Ah. Megatune uses a fixed timing value of -10 to "use map." So, with Megatune you set fixed timing to +10 and change trigger angle until you get to +10 on the dampener with your timing light, then change it back to -10 and MS will set spark angle according to your map.
I don't even know if he used my map at all. I just found it odd that the spark angle in the log didn't change at all. Maybe this dude should be left to his own destructive devices at this point?
I don't even know if he used my map at all. I just found it odd that the spark angle in the log didn't change at all. Maybe this dude should be left to his own destructive devices at this point?
"I love it when a plan comes together."
#26
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Is your req_fuel 5.8? I run 5.7 on 550cc! Your required fuel is too low. Try 7.1
Also don't use you AFR targets with the table set up like that. You're averaging 17-1 with your idle cells at 19.8-1. It will never run like that.
I think you need to work on your spark table too. 30 deg. advance at idle might be considered a bit aggressive.
Your cranking pulse widths are backwards, PW should increase as it gets colder.
Do you have a second map sensor fitted? MS thinks you do.
You need to go over all your tables and make sure they are appropriate for your setup!
Also don't use you AFR targets with the table set up like that. You're averaging 17-1 with your idle cells at 19.8-1. It will never run like that.
I think you need to work on your spark table too. 30 deg. advance at idle might be considered a bit aggressive.
Your cranking pulse widths are backwards, PW should increase as it gets colder.
Do you have a second map sensor fitted? MS thinks you do.
You need to go over all your tables and make sure they are appropriate for your setup!
Last edited by lordrigamus; 05-12-2010 at 11:32 AM. Reason: Spellchecked appropriate!
#27
Hello All im the guy trying to help out TTM i've been going crazy on his car I Know emanage ultimate, Chrome, neptune, Hondata and alittle about haltechs
So ive been trying to help get his car running
okay So Im trying to learn about the megasquirt with him
to get the Timing mark on the pully to line up the fixed timing need to be adjusted im looking at it now im thinking i should have played with the trim angle... but i think the car started to die when i touched that can't remember
even if the timing was locked at 10 degrees the car should at least idle nice? what would it have to do with the afr's?
touch the gas it dies in a heartbeat it has fuel cut
I changed the req fuel up to around 9-10 and it was able to idle but only at 200% ve....
I dont know if its been mention the car is a JDM RHD miata using a jumper harness between the megasquirt and ORIGINAL engine harness I'm wondering if there is something slightly different a wire grounded differently or a resistor somewhere in the harness
So ive been trying to help get his car running
okay So Im trying to learn about the megasquirt with him
to get the Timing mark on the pully to line up the fixed timing need to be adjusted im looking at it now im thinking i should have played with the trim angle... but i think the car started to die when i touched that can't remember
even if the timing was locked at 10 degrees the car should at least idle nice? what would it have to do with the afr's?
touch the gas it dies in a heartbeat it has fuel cut
I changed the req fuel up to around 9-10 and it was able to idle but only at 200% ve....
I dont know if its been mention the car is a JDM RHD miata using a jumper harness between the megasquirt and ORIGINAL engine harness I'm wondering if there is something slightly different a wire grounded differently or a resistor somewhere in the harness
#28
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Location: Kingston, Ontario
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change your base timing at the CAS instead of doing it in the software.
aka when it reads 10 degrees in the software, your car is seeing 10 degrees.
having tuned all of the other systems you have, that should have always been the starting point you do on any ems.
You guys sound like you should give it to someone who knows something about the systems.
aka when it reads 10 degrees in the software, your car is seeing 10 degrees.
having tuned all of the other systems you have, that should have always been the starting point you do on any ems.
You guys sound like you should give it to someone who knows something about the systems.
#30
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at -10 you dont have anything on the crank pully and from what i understand with your timing map at 30 degrees you wont read anything.
Set static timing to 10 degrees POSITIVE and try.
Ok, or pay someone... neither of you know.
Most reputable shops i have messaged stay away from MS since so much relies on setting it up properly from assembly to wiring etc.
Set static timing to 10 degrees POSITIVE and try.
Ok, or pay someone... neither of you know.
Most reputable shops i have messaged stay away from MS since so much relies on setting it up properly from assembly to wiring etc.
#31
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Hamilton, Ontario
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change your base timing at the CAS instead of doing it in the software.
aka when it reads 10 degrees in the software, your car is seeing 10 degrees.
having tuned all of the other systems you have, that should have always been the starting point you do on any ems.
You guys sound like you should give it to someone who knows something about the systems.
aka when it reads 10 degrees in the software, your car is seeing 10 degrees.
having tuned all of the other systems you have, that should have always been the starting point you do on any ems.
You guys sound like you should give it to someone who knows something about the systems.
#33
Have you double checked to make sure that the timing mark you are using is correct? i.e. it lines up to the TDC mark when you are at TDC. Alignment nub on crank pulley is at 12 oclock, cam sprocket marks are lined up.
The crank pulley on my engine that the precious owner put on has timing marks that are 180 off. (May not have been a miata pulley) I had to mark it manually.
I would double check crank pulley marks at TDC. You may have a situation like me where you have to mark TDC on your crank pulley manually.
The crank pulley on my engine that the precious owner put on has timing marks that are 180 off. (May not have been a miata pulley) I had to mark it manually.
I would double check crank pulley marks at TDC. You may have a situation like me where you have to mark TDC on your crank pulley manually.
#34
Sooo imma gunna Kill TTM..... He told me the pump was wired okay he did some wiring jiggabo ****
I finally got my Voltmeter back and got to finally test it gets what? Fuel pump wasnt getting power it would get power when cranking so it would fire then voltage would completely drop off....
I ran a wire Directly from the battery to the pump and it ran perfect on a map that was given to him
the hesitation i could work on now since it was running, was the Accel enrich was on the map sensor, swapped it to the tps mint runs good now
ran out of day light and need to finish up the exhaust and bleed the rad better, and wire in a relay for the pump...
Ive got a spare rx7 FD knock sensor here will it thread into that hole under the intake manifold? (that is in the block)I wouldn't mind wiring that in to help further along tuning (anyone know the settings/freq for it)
Also Im very close to giving up My Turbo FC for a miata i just love how this thing looks lol
I finally got my Voltmeter back and got to finally test it gets what? Fuel pump wasnt getting power it would get power when cranking so it would fire then voltage would completely drop off....
I ran a wire Directly from the battery to the pump and it ran perfect on a map that was given to him
the hesitation i could work on now since it was running, was the Accel enrich was on the map sensor, swapped it to the tps mint runs good now
ran out of day light and need to finish up the exhaust and bleed the rad better, and wire in a relay for the pump...
Ive got a spare rx7 FD knock sensor here will it thread into that hole under the intake manifold? (that is in the block)I wouldn't mind wiring that in to help further along tuning (anyone know the settings/freq for it)
Also Im very close to giving up My Turbo FC for a miata i just love how this thing looks lol
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