Finally got a MS3x
 

OK, so. I bought one with a harness, boost solenoid and a VTPS.

As far as installation, I know it's different than the MSPNP. The harness will just hook up to the MS3x and the stock harness, correct?

Give me some ideas for where to mount this. Glove box a good location?

Can someone load me a file they have that I can use to get the car started or can I download it somewhere?

The boost solenoid, EBC Electronic Boost Control Solenoid Kit DIYAutoTune.com says to just put it between the boost source and the wastegate? Boost source needs to be closest to TB right?

The wiring for the VTPS. Wiring Up Auto (Variable) Tps - Forced Induction & N/A Power Mods - MX5Nutz Forum Correct or not?

I'm sure I will have more once I get it here in my hands. Thanks for any help.

Ok so scratch the VTPS wiring, guy shipped me an already made one!

Also the wiring, I see how it works now that I have it here.

Would a base file for the mspnp work on the ms3x?

Ok so I'm reading all this crap about the ms3x

http://www.msextra.com/doc/pdf/MS3XV30_Hardware-1.3.pdf

All of this is already wired correctly with a Braineack build ms3x right?

I should be able to just install the box, hook it up, load a default tune, and start tuning?

Halp.

I'm reading the ms3x has a basemap loaded on it. But I bought this 2nd hand. Does anyone have a map they could send me?
1.6l
greddy kit
no cat
550cc injectors

or even a basemap (I can't seem to find it) for a 1.6l afm-less.

Thanks for any help.

With the 1.6 harness does the MS3x use the same ground (sensor gnd) as the stock ecu? I believe the answer is yes but I can't find a definite answer. Just want to make sure so I can keep my wideband ground with it.

Some pictures to hopefully get some help.


https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1412185009

Attachment 235248

Attachment 235249

Can't get tunerstudio to connect.

Followed the msextra topic. Get to the part where you portcheck and it doesn't recognize the ms3x. Any help? I've tried different COM's, I'm using a USB cable.

Do you see the com port in Device Manager?

Yes. It shows COM1 USB under ports in Device Manager.

Tried on another laptop, still no go.

Anyway I can check to see if the MS3x is getting power? Should there be lights on somewhere?

Tried a $25 serial to usb cable, still no luck.

I took the case off the ms3x and snapped some pictures. I'm not much of an electrical guy but I didn't see anything fried. I tried to get most of the capacitors/resistors in these shots.

Attachment 235244

Attachment 235245

Attachment 235246

Attachment 235247



Any help is appreciated. I have tried looking for posts related to this problem but none of them have helped.

I don't know if this helps either.

Attachment 235242

Attachment 235243

This is supposed to be for a 1.6L

Can you post a screenshot of device manager? Are you sure you got the drivers?

Drivers are from FTDI most up to date from Virtual COM Port Drivers

Do you have a multimeter?

Have you tried a USB cable? Connected to the MS3?

Also what USB to serial converter are you using.

I have tried a USB cable and a serial to USB on two different laptops.

I do have a multimeter, though still newbish with it.

The one from Radio Shack. Gigaware.

Think you could figure out how to do step 24 on this guide?http://www.msextra.com/doc/ms3/build_manual.html

Should be plugged into your car but with the MS3 unplugged. Like the picture below the step.

I could but I don't have any way to power it off the car.

I bought it 2nd hand from https://www.miataturbo.net/miata-par...9/#post1169300

That test will tell you if the MS3 card is getting power or if there is a short somewhere. After that there are some tests to test the serial output.

Do I have to pull the board off or just leave it unhooked?

You have to disconnect the MS3 (white board) from the main board. Its a 40 pin connector. You pull it off and then test the pins listed in the guide.

Like this:
http://www.msextra.com/doc/general/pix/dip40voltages.png

10-4.

Give me a few, eating dinner atm. Will report back in about 20m.

Thanks for the help so far man.

No worries I had the same stuff with mine I built. Looks like braineack built it, hopefully he will pop in and help out.

12 volt power coming from the factory harness has 12.34v but at the MS3x there is nothing.

Was I supposed to test those 0v and 5v ones right next to each other? It said 32 and 20 which is what I did. Also on the proto area and the u5 pin and nothing either.

Test the voltage between the right leg of u5 and the center leg of u5.

0.00

But between the left and center there is .50 and it tapers off to 0.00 so long as I keep the leads touched there. If I take the leads off it halts at whatever voltage until I touch the leads back to the legs.

Come to think of it maybe I have the settings a click to far on the multimeter and it is 5 volts between the left and center leg.

Might be a problem.

Attachment 235240

Am I supposed to have those q12 etc etc chips?

There should be 12 volts between right and center, 5 between left and center. Fiddle with the settings and see if you can get that. Let me know what you find.

Nope u5 is the only one needed.

There is not. I get no volts on right/middle and .5 on middle/left.

Meter is set on 20 which is the lowest it will go before going infinite.

What do you measure at pin 28 on the main board connector.

Hmm? Nothing said to check it. What do I check it against?

Against ground. Either pin 2 or the proto area ground. Is your key on?

Yup, brb.

Still nothing.

Pin 28 is power from the harness. That's a problem

I have power from the harness though. I check with it unplugged key on and had 12v. Red/White wire factory harness.

OK so how about between pin 28 and pin 8. Make sure you are checking the correct pin. This is on the blue main board.

We talking about the 40 pin connector we have been testing up to this point right?

No sorry. This is the db37 connector on the blue main board. The one the harness plugs into.

Diagram of which pin is which?

http://msextra.com/doc/ms3/General_Pix/v3-wiring.png

Took the bottom off and counted the pins over, still nothing.

Connector not making contact I'm guessing?

Set your multimeter to ohms and check the connection from the harness pin for power and the pin on the db37 connector

It shows continuity.

Messing around with the multimeter, probing the power pin on the db37 connector. Other end poking around, I'm finding a lot of them show 60.7 on the 200k setting. The middle foot shows 60.7 on u5 and the right foot shows 61.5.

Port 32 shows 60.7 and port 31 shows 61.5
Port 1 shows 61.5 and port 2 shows 60.7
Port 19 shows 60.7 and port 20 shows 61.5

This is all from the power pin.

A ground pin shows continuity to everything I just said.

Probing the connector end again on the db37. Power pin on one, every single one besides 3, 4, 5, 6 on the top row show 60.9.

20 and 21 show 64.1.
24 shows 62.6
26 shows 61.7
All else show open.

Shit man I'm stumped. The way to figure out what is wrong is to trace to where the voltage stops. So we would start at the harness connector and find 12 volts then check each connection after that until we don't find 12 volts. The 3 easy connections are. At the harness connector, then at pin 28, then at u5 on the right pin. So if we have 12 volts at the harness. Then not 12 volts at the db37 connector the problem has to be between the harness connector and the db37. If you had access to a power supply we could try connecting it directly to the MS3, I'm pretty sure you can use a 9v battery to do the tests in step 24 from the build manual above. I would try connecting a 9v battery to power and ground on the harness connector and tell me if you what voltages you get at pin 28. Right and left legs of u5. and the pins on the 40 pin cpu connector. All these should be tested against ground. either pin 2, 8, or the ground in the proto area.

Those readings were on the 200k OHM setting. Was just messing around checking resistances and such. But if my power pin on the db37 connector shows a resistance of 61.5 on the right leg of the u5 then something isn't right since it needs 12v?

Missed that. So the right leg of u5 has continuity with the middle pin? If so you have a short. At this point I would pm Braineack and email DIYAutoTune. They will be able to help you diagnose what is blown/shorted. Update this thread if you figure it out. I'm interested. I don't know the board well enough to diagnose more over the internet and mine is put away in my car. But those guys should be able to help.

Yeah, the right leg of u5 shows continuity to the power pin 28. So does the middle leg. So does those 3 sets of 0v and 5v pins on the 40pin cpu connector. But it doesn't show a clear path, IE 0.00. It reads 60.7 and 61.5.

What is the resistance between the right and middle leg of u5

Just sucks I got it this way. I'm sure it can be fixed but I wanted to have the car running by now...