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Old 12-02-2013, 04:42 PM   #1
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Default Finishing off DIYPNP, couple questions (alternator voltage regularion, sequental inj.

Hello,

im finishing off my DIYPNP build, which will be used in a -99 10ae euro with a m45 supercharger.

DIYPNP MegaSquirt installation for the Mazda Miata

Here is the instruction for my model, i have done all the necessary jumper connections.

Firsty, do i really need the "Alternator Voltage Regulation" circuit build into the unit? im quite bad at electronics, and will def. need some help with that one. Where does the output go to?

And secondly, does the "Sequential Injection Kit" have any real world benefits to it? i will be upgrading my injectors to rx8 ones with the s/c installed.

All input appreciated.
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Old 12-02-2013, 05:50 PM   #2
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yes. and yes.
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Old 12-02-2013, 06:13 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by Braineack View Post
yes. and yes.
Right, thank you.

Now, i have further questions

Does someone have a picture/tutorial on how to build the voltage regulator on the proto area?

And do i have to do any mods on the car for the Sequential Injection mod? i think i have seen someone mentioning the NB 1.8 engine has wires for it in the default harness. So im good to go after soldering the unit on my diypnp and jumping the right wires on the unit?
Or do i need mods outside the diypnp?
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Old 12-02-2013, 08:13 PM   #4
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ive posted a good one once or twice. i can upload it again if i can find it on my spare hdd.

no mods to car.

parts go seq. is about $4 from digikey.
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Old 12-03-2013, 11:29 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Braineack View Post
yes. and yes.
suggest that it could be a NO and a YES - there is an alternative.

To mimic the stock ecu, it would be Yes, but you do not have to do the alternator mod on the ecu. Take out that stupid late model alternator, and install one from a 97. Ta Da!

I personally do not like the idea of the voltage regulator on the ecu board and think the regulator in a stock alternator is more robust than the circuit stuck onto the ecu.

As to the second yes, has anyone quantified the extent of the gain? I obviously think it has to work better, but have no real feel for the amount of improvement.
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Old 12-03-2013, 11:43 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by Braineack View Post
ive posted a good one once or twice. i can upload it again if i can find it on my spare hdd.

no mods to car.

parts go seq. is about $4 from digikey.
Would appreciate if you found it, i have been reading topics related to this for ~5hours now without luck.
Jasons circuit is too complex for my level of knowledge about subject, i would appreciate starlight tutorial/picture of how to arrange and jump on the proto area.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Team DNR View Post
suggest that it could be a NO and a YES - there is an alternative.

To mimic the stock ecu, it would be Yes, but you do not have to do the alternator mod on the ecu. Take out that stupid late model alternator, and install one from a 97. Ta Da!

I personally do not like the idea of the voltage regulator on the ecu board and think the regulator in a stock alternator is more robust than the circuit stuck onto the ecu.

As to the second yes, has anyone quantified the extent of the gain? I obviously think it has to work better, but have no real feel for the amount of improvement.
That would work as well, just quite more expensive. 1.8 NA alternators are quite rare on euro ebay, 70-130.
But if i manage to find one at decent price, is it a plug&play or do i need some mods?
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Old 12-03-2013, 11:55 AM   #7
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I found it:



thank god for our image search function.


Do not run batch fuel.
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Old 12-03-2013, 11:56 AM   #8
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2nd vote for "No, and Yes."

Convert to NA8 alternator and stop worrying about it.
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Old 12-03-2013, 01:02 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Braineack View Post
I found it:



thank god for our image search function.


Do not run batch fuel.
Well that clears it out, thank you.

But how would i go about modifying the circuit to get the 100nF capacitor in holes? i doubt it can take much abuse hanging in the air by jump wires?
or is it good enough with solid soldering?
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Old 12-03-2013, 01:06 PM   #10
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I have pics of how I've done it. but i just bend the legs to fit the span and call it a day.

if you're really worried, dump hot glue all over it.
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Old 12-03-2013, 01:14 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Braineack View Post
I have pics of how I've done it. but i just bend the legs to fit the span and call it a day.

if you're really worried, dump hot glue all over it.
Right, well i'll find a way.

Im all good for now, will be ordering components for the regulator and injector mod and hopefully testing them by the end of the week.

Thank you for fast, and factual support.
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Old 12-03-2013, 07:00 PM   #12
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Brain,

Do you have a schematic for Sequential and a parts list for digikey?
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Old 12-03-2013, 08:56 PM   #13
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copy the parts/schematic from the microsquirt module, they have to match exactly.

you can find it at msextra.com or megamanual.com IIRC.

you just need (2) 10K ohms, (2) 1K ohms, and the two drivers. Incredibly simple circuits.
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Old 12-04-2013, 01:20 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chitty chitty bang bang View Post
Brain,

Do you have a schematic for Sequential and a parts list for digikey?
If you manage to find the schematic, plese do share. Been trying to find it myself to save 50€.

---
nvm, found it http://www.microsquirtmodule.com/schm9.gif

I guess the INJ-1 goes to 4Z, and iINJ to 4X from the drivers on a -99. But where are the INT1/IN2 and ALT_INJ1/ALT_INJ2 go from the resistors?
The kit also has holes for 12v and IAC, where do they go..?

Anyway, off to school for now.

Last edited by Muksimp; 12-04-2013 at 01:37 AM.
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Old 12-04-2013, 09:05 AM   #15
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You'd wire:
INJ1 to Cylinder 1.
INJ2 to Cylinder 3.
INJ3 to Clyinder 4.
INJ4 to Clyinder 2.

By default you must use PT6 and PT7 as INJ3 and INJ4 respectively. I'll look tonight to show you how I'd built that same alternator circuit and the extra fuel drivers in the proto area.


Unsure about the 12v and IAC question...clarify.
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Old 12-05-2013, 06:24 PM   #16
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Quote: Muksimp: "That would work as well, just quite more expensive. 1.8 NA alternators are quite rare on euro ebay, 70-130€.
But if i manage to find one at decent price, is it a plug&play or do i need some mods?"

That sucks. I'm guessing when you say Euro ebay you mean used stuff? Around here in ol usa, used are about $30, rebuilt with warranty retail about $70. New are pricey at around $150. Whats exchange today, $1.37 to one Euro? That makes your price range $96 to $178. Way above our prices. Wonder why?

Plus side is that it is pure PNP. Physical dimensions are identical. Same plugs. We've done several 99's & 00's this way mainly due to the fact that I have a personal dislike for the regulator circuit on the ecu. For me, a rebuilt alternator at $70 was a better deal cause aside from all else, the original beast usually have 100 to 200k miles on em

Last edited by Team DNR; 12-06-2013 at 10:03 AM. Reason: Quote didn't come through
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Old 12-05-2013, 06:39 PM   #17
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Old 12-06-2013, 12:38 AM   #18
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You beat me to it. Thanks Muksimp.



Quote:
Originally Posted by Muksimp View Post
If you manage to find the schematic, plese do share. Been trying to find it myself to save 50.

---
nvm, found it http://www.microsquirtmodule.com/schm9.gif

I guess the INJ-1 goes to 4Z, and iINJ to 4X from the drivers on a -99. But where are the INT1/IN2 and ALT_INJ1/ALT_INJ2 go from the resistors?
The kit also has holes for 12v and IAC, where do they go..?

Anyway, off to school for now.
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Old 12-06-2013, 10:05 AM   #19
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Very cool diagrams and pics on the install. Great stuff.

Anyone have ideas as to the gain from this mod? Not questioning that it is a good idea, just very curious as to what to expect as I will be adding sequential spark and fuel to my NA 1.6.
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Old 12-06-2013, 10:10 AM   #20
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power, efficiency, smooth

it's worth it. do it.

you can idle smoother, leaner.

You can remove fuel from your ve table.

and you'll end up with more power from a more complete burn and stronger spark.
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