That was fun while it lasted. Faulty injector circuit now - Miata Turbo Forum - Boost cars, acquire cats.

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Old 12-08-2007, 01:45 AM   #1
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Default That was fun while it lasted. Faulty injector circuit now

Just finished everything and was testing. Ready to install the top cover and hook it up to the car for pre-powerup testing.

Somehow managed to drop some solder onto the board somewhere on the 21-40 pin side of the processor. Serial communication with my PC reset, and now only one light blinks on the injector output indicators with the stimulator.

In megatune injector pulsewidth is identical, however duty cycle is way off. Number one is normal at 40% and two is 80-90%. The number two light isn't indicating on the stim anymore.

I'm at a total loss of words now.

My brother thinks it might have shorted the proc and burnt out one of the outputs, so hes dropping off his MS1 proc hes not using tomorrow for me to test but my hopes aren't very high. I swear every time I get something like this completed it has to go wrong somehow.
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Old 12-08-2007, 02:01 AM   #2
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Voltage output from Pin 21 on CPU is 2.40 volts and Pin 22 is 4.1 volts. Not sure if thats correct, still looking for some info on that. :(
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Old 12-08-2007, 02:30 AM   #3
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Update again.

Q2 Pin 1 reads 6.10 volts, 2 is 2.4 volts, 3 is 0 volts. Q7 pin 1 reads 0.132 volts, pin 2 is 3.57 volts, pin 3 is 0 volts. Used the nonbanded side of D4 for ground ref when testing.

Serial communication is flawless, I reflashed the firmware just to make sure it didn't bump the boot pins..

Voltage output from U7 Pin 7 is 0-9 volts pulse.. I don't have a scope so I can't check that, but its fluctuating.. Pin 5 is a steady 0.133 volts.


This HAS to be a fried Processor??
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Old 12-08-2007, 08:07 AM   #4
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Wish I could help man, but GL anyhow.
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Old 12-08-2007, 12:52 PM   #5
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DC#2 is always a crazy number IIRC....


I'd email jerry or matt at diy. If you do have to replace the CPU is only $18.
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Old 12-08-2007, 03:03 PM   #6
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Do my voltages coming out of Pin 21 and 22 seem right? I've been stuck working this morning and haven't had time to play with it, plus still waiting for my brother to get the proc dropped off..
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Old 12-08-2007, 03:20 PM   #7
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Okay now I'm totally confused.

I checked the voltage going to the VCC side of R30 and R31... Came up with 5.02 volts like it should be. Checked the output of R30 and R31, R30 gives me 4.4 volts and R31 gives me 4.8 volts..

If I'm reading this correctly voltage comes from VCC through these resistors, then feeds voltage to BOTH Pin 21 and Pin 22 on the U1 Processor AS WELL as voltage to U7 Pins 2 and 4 respective.. Is that correct or am I wrong about that?

It seems like U7 is probably bad or maybe both U1 and U7? My meter can do frequency and I'm getting 11 hz on the "A" output pin number 7 on U7 with the "engine" running at 1400rpm... Pin 5 for output "B" is dead and reading 0.10 volts with 0hz frequency.

Hopefully this IS infact my problem. *pulls hair*
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Old 12-08-2007, 03:24 PM   #8
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I just probed 21 and 22 for you. I get 4.95v on both pins.
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Old 12-08-2007, 03:33 PM   #9
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you don't even need U7, unless VR circuit IIRC.
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Old 12-08-2007, 07:38 PM   #10
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Well the good news is replacement of that processor has fixed the injector driver problem. Thats good.


However.. Hooked it up to the car to check some things out and it won't start. Reads RPM, IAT, CLT, TPS (did calibrate TPS), PW, duty cycle, map, etc... Fuel pump ran, seems like everything is going. Tried to reverse the coils to see if maybe I hooked those up back words.. didn't make any difference. Plugged the factory PCM back in, started right up.

Have 2 more problems.. I didn't read close enough when building this thing, integrated the MIL indicator in the dash to a "shift light" and hooked up the triggers for the fan relays without the 12 volt driver circuit. Figured I'd disable both of those and be good with it for now, except with them both turned off Key on starts up both fans and MIL indicator half light up.

Went back to DIY to check their spark/idle settings, everything I have matches what they have.. Spark is inverted. I'm stuck and its colder than **** outside (20 degrees). Loaded up the "stock" miata VE and spark tables.
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Old 12-08-2007, 08:04 PM   #11
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Okay I'm kinda surprised the car didn't explode the second I plugged this thing in.. Wtc!?

Its still colder than ***** outside, but looking at my wiring diagrams that I made and tables, I switched (SOMEHOW!?) when making my harness CKP and CMP inputs from the CAS. So I need to reverse those and cross my fingers again!
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Old 12-08-2007, 08:26 PM   #12
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You want spark set to inverted "NO". Inverted spark using the DIYautotune mods will fry your coils.
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Old 12-08-2007, 08:34 PM   #13
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This is whats driving me crazy about this project, I get 10 people telling me 20 different things. I'm not bitching about the help, btw.



That is the ignition mod I'm using with the VB921 output drivers.

Switched around my CMP and CKP inputs so they should be correct now.. Still not sure about anything else really. Crap, wish I had a garage.
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Old 12-08-2007, 08:46 PM   #14
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what coils are you using? I don't understand why you're using VB921s. Your setup is totally different than what we all use.
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Old 12-08-2007, 09:14 PM   #15
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this would match what we all do.
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Old 12-08-2007, 09:26 PM   #16
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I'm using factory coils for now, soon to be toyota COPs...

Everyone told me use the DIY spark mod. I go to DIYs site, click on install articles, miata, and thats the very first one they recommend.

Quote:
Option 1: Spark Output to factory Miata ignitors: (Recommended)
Parts Needed for PCBv3 Output Mod using factory ignitors: (2) 1k 1/4w Resistors

Next use two 1k ohm resistors as pictured below, along with two bits of wire to bring the signals out to the DB37. This will condition the board to use the stock ignitors and coil packs. Take each resistor and cut off all but about of an inch lead on each side, hook both ends and loop them around the pins that were already soldered. The picture below shows where they go. The resistor goes from the 5v side of each resistor to the negative leg of the respective LED. This is then brought over to the db37 with two lengths of wire (one for each). The top resistor goes to IGN and the bottom resistor goes to IAC2B.

When wiring up your ECU later: Spark Output A will come out on pin36, and Spark Output B will come out on pin31.

Click for a larger view



NOTE-- If you're modding up an MS-I PCBv2.2 ECU you can use the documentation at http://megasquirt.sourceforge.net/extra/setup-neon.html to use your stock ignitors. The above info is for the PCBv3.0 ECU.
I didn't do what Brain just posted because my original spark mod which I found off some board I can't even remember its been so long ago had me remove Q9, Q11, R25 and R28. Using what I found on DIYs site I took a 330 ohm resistor into the input side of R25 and R28 over to leg 1 on each FET, two was output to X12 and X13 (X11 is input on mine.. doesn't matter), groudned Leg 3 of FET. I thought this would work?
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Old 12-08-2007, 09:30 PM   #17
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Aren't the VB921's used for coils that don't have ignitors? Our stock coils have ignitors built in. You should be doing exactly what DIYautotune has listed for the mods. It's stable and works without fail. You can get replacement transistors and resistors from radioshack to replace those that you removed. It would be better for you to follow the instructions and do what has been proven to work 100% than your current setup with the VBs.
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Old 12-08-2007, 10:10 PM   #18
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Son of a.....



Well I didn't think it was a chance in hell radioshack would have the two transistors, and I was right. They didn't have PN2222As... however, I did buy a couple MPS2222A transistors... Looking at the data sheet for the PN2222A and MPS2222A they're the same thing? All data is identical except the PN2222A is 500mw and the MPS2222A is 625mw.. The MPS2222A should work fine?
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Old 12-08-2007, 11:24 PM   #19
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Aside from cleanup did I get things right this time? Please? lol.


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Old 12-09-2007, 01:12 AM   #20
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That looks correct. Not sure, but i believe you might need the LEDs. Those are the correct points to trigger at though.
Looks like R28 needs a little solder action on the LED end as well.
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