MEGAsquirt A place to collectively sort out this megasquirt gizmo

Got mine running on MS

Old 01-14-2006, 10:23 PM
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Default Got mine running on MS

Fuel only, ignition to come when I get the fuel dialed in. Using a LC-1 wideband and a GM IAT sensor, stock CLT sensor, splice at igniter with (2x)1k ohm resistors for RPM.

Step 2: Ignition
Step 3: install turbo
Step 4: do all the tuning over again.
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Old 01-16-2006, 12:53 AM
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Cool!
Keep us posted and do a writeup
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Old 01-16-2006, 10:49 AM
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Great,
What version are using?
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Old 01-16-2006, 01:53 PM
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24s13 I think. http://msefi.com/viewtopic.php?p=95896

It really has not been too terribly difficult to set up as fuel only, although the ignition is going to be more difficult I'm sure. I went in steps, first connecting all sensors and taking some dead stock datalogs, then snipping the wires for the injectors and taking over.
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Old 01-20-2006, 05:51 PM
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Excellent, nice job Al, I saw your post on the MS forums before I saw it here. Let us know what modifications you need to do to get the ignition running.
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Old 01-21-2006, 11:42 AM
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Got mine in the mail last night!
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Old 01-21-2006, 03:02 PM
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******* SWEET.

I REALLY was hoping we'd get a few people on MS.
Mostly because I'm selfish and I want to be the only source of info for MS miatas

Keep up the good work!
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Old 01-21-2006, 04:05 PM
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The MSEFI board is currently ahead of us, Al's make #4 on record over there...
http://www.msefi.com/viewforum.php?f...00a9f65c3440bc
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Old 01-21-2006, 05:54 PM
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Well, if anyone would like to donate/sell for cheap a miata to me in LA I can kick mine off. I have all of the information and wiring diagrams all laid out, I'm just looking for a good, cheap miata to through these ITBs and MS on.
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Old 01-21-2006, 07:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Jefe
Got mine in the mail last night!
Great. Good luck.

I really think this is something that could replace the old AFPR/fuel pump setup. I am glad I could get it to work for me (so far) because the MS is both cheaper than an AFPR/fuel pump/Emanage, and it is a true standalone, allowing full control of all fueling characteristics and the use of injectors that are actually big enough for boost.

update too.
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Old 01-21-2006, 08:04 PM
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my inspirational poster : (a quick test fit of my IC)

Last edited by Al Hounos; 07-21-2007 at 05:23 PM.
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Old 01-22-2006, 05:44 PM
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That looks like the Evo intercooler What gauge wire did you use to hook everything up? I'm getting ready to put together my harness but I don't know what gauge is good enough.
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Old 01-22-2006, 06:58 PM
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Yes it is, I wanted to use lots of OEM parts, and I figure the Evo IC is the biggest and best out there.

I can't help you there because I cheated, I just bought one of these:
http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/m...eady-p-43.html
It's really nice having everything properly color coded and labeled.
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Old 01-22-2006, 10:09 PM
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Originally Posted by iWeasel410
That looks like the Evo intercooler What gauge wire did you use to hook everything up? I'm getting ready to put together my harness but I don't know what gauge is good enough.
Stranded 20ga should be fine, I'll use that or 18 depending on what's sitting around the house...
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Old 01-29-2006, 07:26 PM
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god, i want to use a MS, but i haven't studied electrical circuits since college, and that was before a changed majors.

all i remember is red is positive, black is negative. smoke is bad.
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Old 01-31-2006, 01:33 PM
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Did you ever calculate the resistance for the stock CLT sensor?
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Old 01-31-2006, 01:36 PM
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Nope, I just took the averages. You can do better.
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Old 01-31-2006, 10:12 PM
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Originally Posted by kung fu jesus
god, i want to use a MS, but i haven't studied electrical circuits since college, and that was before a changed majors.

all i remember is red is positive, black is negative. smoke is bad.

this stuff is like japanese to me. makes me think ill be stuck at 6 psi forever....once i even get there.
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Old 02-03-2006, 01:48 PM
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Al,

Did you use the CAS outer signal, (yelow/blue wire) did you connect to pin 24?

Then connect the CAS inner signal, (white) pin 11?
I understand about adding the pullups, just want to make sure I have the right pin and OEM CAS output wires and outer signal leads.
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Old 02-03-2006, 11:25 PM
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I was not sure either, so I guessed that the neg signal was the outer and primary signal and the g signal was the inner, secondary signal. So I spliced my IGN wire into the neg. CAS signal, (a white wire), and the g CAS signal (yellow/blue) into the IAC1A wire.

I finished fixing my CAS mods on the MS (diyautotune's old ones were wrong) and I just got it decoding off the CAS, and all seems well. Reading correct timing.
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