Fuel only, ignition to come when I get the fuel dialed in. Using a LC-1 wideband and a GM IAT sensor, stock CLT sensor, splice at igniter with (2x)1k ohm resistors for RPM.

Step 2: Ignition
Step 3: install turbo
Step 4: do all the tuning over again.

 

Cool!
Keep us posted and do a writeup

 

Great,
What version are using?

 

24s13 I think. http://msefi.com/viewtopic.php?p=95896

It really has not been too terribly difficult to set up as fuel only, although the ignition is going to be more difficult I'm sure. I went in steps, first connecting all sensors and taking some dead stock datalogs, then snipping the wires for the injectors and taking over.

 

Excellent, nice job Al, I saw your post on the MS forums before I saw it here. Let us know what modifications you need to do to get the ignition running.

 

Got mine in the mail last night!

 

******* SWEET.

I REALLY was hoping we'd get a few people on MS.
Mostly because I'm selfish and I want to be the only source of info for MS miatas

Keep up the good work!

 

The MSEFI board is currently ahead of us, Al's make #4 on record over there...
http://www.msefi.com/viewforum.php?f...00a9f65c3440bc

 

Well, if anyone would like to donate/sell for cheap a miata to me in LA I can kick mine off. I have all of the information and wiring diagrams all laid out, I'm just looking for a good, cheap miata to through these ITBs and MS on.

 

Great. Good luck.

I really think this is something that could replace the old AFPR/fuel pump setup. I am glad I could get it to work for me (so far) because the MS is both cheaper than an AFPR/fuel pump/Emanage, and it is a true standalone, allowing full control of all fueling characteristics and the use of injectors that are actually big enough for boost.

update too.

 

my inspirational poster : (a quick test fit of my IC)

 

That looks like the Evo intercooler What gauge wire did you use to hook everything up? I'm getting ready to put together my harness but I don't know what gauge is good enough.

 

Yes it is, I wanted to use lots of OEM parts, and I figure the Evo IC is the biggest and best out there.

I can't help you there because I cheated, I just bought one of these:
http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/m...eady-p-43.html
It's really nice having everything properly color coded and labeled.

 

Stranded 20ga should be fine, I'll use that or 18 depending on what's sitting around the house...

 

god, i want to use a MS, but i haven't studied electrical circuits since college, and that was before a changed majors.

all i remember is red is positive, black is negative. smoke is bad.

 

Did you ever calculate the resistance for the stock CLT sensor?

 

Nope, I just took the averages. You can do better.

 

this stuff is like japanese to me. makes me think ill be stuck at 6 psi forever....once i even get there.

 

Al,

Did you use the CAS outer signal, (yelow/blue wire) did you connect to pin 24?

Then connect the CAS inner signal, (white) pin 11?
I understand about adding the pullups, just want to make sure I have the right pin and OEM CAS output wires and outer signal leads.

 

I was not sure either, so I guessed that the neg signal was the outer and primary signal and the g signal was the inner, secondary signal. So I spliced my IGN wire into the neg. CAS signal, (a white wire), and the g CAS signal (yellow/blue) into the IAC1A wire.

I finished fixing my CAS mods on the MS (diyautotune's old ones were wrong) and I just got it decoding off the CAS, and all seems well. Reading correct timing.