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Old 09-10-2006, 10:47 AM   #1
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Can't get it to run, can anyone offer any advice? I bought a premade loom from Jerry at DIYautotune, and have hooked up coolant, airtemp power and grounds, at that point the car worked as normal (obviously)

next up i've tried connecting the injectors, and I'm now stuck, i've connected injector 1 and 3 to the wire labled INJ1 and 2 and 4 to the wire labled INJ2. I've also connected the o2 sensor and fuelpump, but I don't get a signal from that? my AFR guage is pink all the time :( and MS tries to prime the pump whether it's connected or not :?

i've loaded Kingof's msq which he kindly offered, and tried to start my car, but although it fires extremly brielfy I get nothing after that. If i switch the ignition off and on again, it does the same thing.

I've tried with the stock ECU controling the pump and without, no difference

I'm feeling way out of my depth at the moment....can anyone offer any advice? building the thing was a walk in the park in comparison!
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Old 09-10-2006, 12:13 PM   #2
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From what I've read you just want to make sure your sensors are working before you try anything fancy (more than just fuel). Also there are some posts about dwell settings you need to use or you can fry your coils.

This is definitely not the type of project to plugin and forget (yet anyway). What year is your car? Any modifications?
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Old 09-10-2006, 01:12 PM   #3
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I have and they do, bar the o2 sensor, but I've a feeling i've cut the wrong wire. the O2 senors not essential anyway afiaik

with the MS plugged in and nothing cut I get MAP CLT and IAT. i've cut the injector lines and joined 1&3 and 2&4 together. 1&3 have gone to INJ1 as it's labled on my harness and 2&4 have been connected to INJ2 on my harness. nothing else has been done.

don't bring up the issue of ignition, I've not even mentioned/started that yet.

I'm aslo well aware of what sort of ECU the MS is. my car is a 96 with 0 mods
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Old 09-10-2006, 03:14 PM   #4
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Do you know that your Fuel pump is running? That's what happens when a car fires but won't keep running. Try jumpering the fuel pump to be on at all times in the diagnostics box in the engine bay. What does pink AFR mean? I forget. It probably doesn't matter as an o2 takes about 30sec. to heat up anyway.

I'd imagine King's setup is not the problem. You have changed your injector size in the constants, right?
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Old 09-10-2006, 03:16 PM   #5
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Have you connected the primary tach (CKP) to the right cable? I´m a bit confused myself. I´ve just noticed that the two blue and white tach-cables on the harness are one to many. One of them goes to pin 25 on the DB37 that is the CMP, but the other blue and white cable does not go to the pin 24 on the DB37?? On Diyautotune´s miata-page it says that CKP is pin 24 and CMP is pin 25. On my harness(and yours) pin 25 is the thick gray cable.

Not sure this is any help for you, but I´m confused about it so I thought maybe this could be your problem. If you don´t get the right signal from the CAS then nothing works.

/Fredrik
(From Sweden if you wonder why I write porly)
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Old 09-10-2006, 03:22 PM   #6
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You'll need to figure out which wire is right for your setup. Everyone seems to solder the sec tach input on the MS to a different pin/wire on the MS harness.

Get out your ohm meter/test light to check for continuity!
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Old 09-10-2006, 04:23 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Al Hounos View Post
Do you know that your Fuel pump is running? That's what happens when a car fires but won't keep running. Try jumpering the fuel pump to be on at all times in the diagnostics box in the engine bay. What does pink AFR mean? I forget. It probably doesn't matter as an o2 takes about 30sec. to heat up anyway.

I'd imagine King's setup is not the problem. You have changed your injector size in the constants, right?
I wasn't sure to be honest, so I've re-plugged it into the stock ECU.

by Pink AFR i mean what the dials look like in MT :-)
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Old 09-10-2006, 04:28 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bfd_henriksson View Post
Have you connected the primary tach (CKP) to the right cable? I´m a bit confused myself. I´ve just noticed that the two blue and white tach-cables on the harness are one to many. One of them goes to pin 25 on the DB37 that is the CMP, but the other blue and white cable does not go to the pin 24 on the DB37?? On Diyautotune´s miata-page it says that CKP is pin 24 and CMP is pin 25. On my harness(and yours) pin 25 is the thick gray cable.

Not sure this is any help for you, but I´m confused about it so I thought maybe this could be your problem. If you don´t get the right signal from the CAS then nothing works.

/Fredrik
(From Sweden if you wonder why I write porly)
yes and finding the correct pin wire if a ballache as you say as the DB37 is screwed shut and the IAC stepper motor wires (whe we MX5 owners use for tacho) are labled exactly the same. I also ran into ussues when I opened the DB37 up so I wouldn't reccomend that... one of the blue and white cables *does go to pin 24 however, you're mixing them up somewhere along the line ;-)

Origianlly I didn't connect the tach input up, then my dad piped up that maybe the MS needs the tach input to know when to squirt....DOH.

Anyway I tapped into pin the white wire and the yellow wire on the MX5's wiring harness, reconnected the *stock* ecu to the injectors and fired her up to sheck whether I had a tach signal

I don't what do I do now? I've checked and re-checked my mods on the MS and they all look good. It's only 2 pissing wires, why won't my tach work? :(
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Old 09-10-2006, 06:59 PM   #9
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The O2 sensor is not important. We're only looking for open loop operation right now anyway. So did you have a tach signal when you run it on the stock ECM? That is the most important part. If the MS doesn't see your spark signal, it won't send the fuel.
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Old 09-10-2006, 07:01 PM   #10
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Oh, just read the next thread, looks like you figured it out.
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Old 09-11-2006, 03:56 AM   #11
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Oh, just read the next thread, looks like you figured it out.
well, sorta I now know I need a tach signal, but I can't get one!
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Old 09-11-2006, 12:33 PM   #12
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Are you not getting a RPM input on the MS at all, any of the time? You definitely must have a tach input for the MS to know when to fire the injectors or ignition.

If the unit is modded (you did put the 12v pullup back in place that you removed for testing on the stim right?) for the Miata and connected to both the CKP and CMP CAS outputs to pin24 and 25 then you should get an RPM signal in MegaTune when the engine is turning over. If you're not getting RPM that is definitely where you want to start. Chances are something in the mods or the wiring to the CAS is off just a bit. The other possiblity is that the configuration of the ECU isn't right for using the wheel decoder. Do you know if the wheel decoder is enabled and configured?

Let me know what you find!
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Old 09-11-2006, 01:02 PM   #13
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Richyvrlimited! Can´t you do a screendumb(or whatever it´s called in English) so that we can see if there something wrong with your settings?
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Old 09-11-2006, 03:47 PM   #14
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GET IN IT BLOODY WORKS (please excuse my french!)

I'd miked up the IAC1 wires like a dumbass. Started 1st time, thanks kingof!

It runs a bit rough at the moment like stumbling at low revs and whatnot any tuning tips? I'm extremly green on tuning!

still I'm a happy guy! MS is controlling the injectors and O2 sensor at the moment, stock ECU is handling the pump and Idle (need to get me soldering iron out again for idle!), D?? needs soldering on the TPS wire?

then I can connect the Ignition!
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Old 09-11-2006, 03:52 PM   #15
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That's great news Richard-- I figured it was something small like that.

Here's a decnet little writeup I did on basic street tuning...

http://www.diyautotune.com/tech_arti...squirt_ems.htm

Last edited by FoundSoul; 09-11-2006 at 05:11 PM.
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Old 09-11-2006, 04:50 PM   #16
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YEAH!! Let´s hope I can get my car to start also. I think I´m gonna play with Megatune for a while before I plug it in.
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Old 09-11-2006, 05:13 PM   #17
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That's definitely a good way to get familiar with MegaTune is to play with it on stim for a bit first. Remember with the stim v2.1 you'll need to temporarily remove the 12v pullup on the CKP signal for the stimulator to trigger the ECU properly. Then put it back in place before installing on the car. The stim 2.0 doesn't require this if you have the older unit, and I'm working with the designer to fix this...
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Old 09-11-2006, 08:37 PM   #18
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The stim works great ones I removed the 12v pullup.
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