Treflipz

I have looked for answers for hours to no end and cannot get my car to run again. I bought a automatic 1992 miata for a steal with a turbo setup on it running rx8 420 yellow injectors,a MS2 DIY, (I already had an AEM wideband in my car *ditched speeduino*), stock TPS, GM IAT, T04E turbo

I drove the automatic home about an hour and a half and it was fine. i removed the turbo setup and installed it on my 1992 manual miata when i got home. I started my car on the megasquirt and it sounded fine but when i let off the throttle it would die, but i could keep it running. I loaded the basemap from megasquirts website and forgot to save the automatic cars tune before i overwrited it.
I changed the settings for GM IAT, wideband, required fuel, fuel injector dead time, and now it will start up for a split second and just die. I have made no additional changes to the car itself from when it did run to now aside from the tune. my tuning knowledge is limited but i have been learning a lot watching the tuning videos for newbs here on miataturbo and various other videos.
I have also reached out to the previous owner of the automatic for the old tune waiting on a reply.

I have linked my tune and data log below and if anyone could help it would be highly appreciated.

Treflipz

Any help would be highly appreicated!

der_vierte

I looked over it.

Turn baro correction off.
Why use additional injector drivers (are you sequential or stock (non cali 1.6?)), but use untimed injection? Should be "standard drivers" and "untimed" for a full stock 1.6!
Your VE and AFR target table only go up to 100kpa, be careful! Spark table looks okay.
Reduce cranking rpm to 350-400, flood clear maybe to 75-85%.
Try turning off idle control.

Hope this helps!

Treflipz

Sorry I am replying so late, but yes that helped out a ton! The car will idle now "not good but it idles" fluctuating around 3-500 and when i give it gas it dies. I have to get this sorted out which I'm going to give a try tonight and will report back tomorrow with results.

SpartanSV

You need to fix whatever is going on with your IAT sensor. Your reported battery voltage is also suspiciously low.

Treflipz

The battery was low due to trying to start it so much, I put it on the battery charger while trying to get everything done to solve that. Would the IAT sensor be the cause of the low idle and not being able to touch the throttle without it dying?

I'm going to be back out in the garage tonight and am hoping to be able to use my timing light tonight and get my downpipe welded on monday

SpartanSV

The reason you can't touch the throttle without it dying is because you still need to tune the car. You need to fix the IAT before you can tune the car.

There isn't going to be one magical change that suddenly makes the car run perfectly. You need to follow the proper steps like setting your base timing and fixing sensors then prepare yourself to spend many hours making small tuning changes to get everything right.

Treflipz

I currently have the iat sensor plugged in but I do not have a bung in the piping yet. The car I removed the turbo setup from didnt have an IAT sensor or a AFM and it surprisingly ran fine for the hour and a half drive.
I really regret getting rid of the tune that came on it because the car started fine and revved fine just wouldnt idle! I assumed the base map would start the car after adjusting the iat, map, fuel injector required fuel, and wideband.
in all these youtube videos everyone changes those few things give or take and their car starts up flawlessly! So I began over looking things and I'm seeing where I've been messing up BIG time

deezums

iTrader: (3)

Tunerstudio has backups, tune restore points, CTRL+R. If it hasn't been long the old tune is probably still on your PC.

Treflipz

That option is unfortunately greyed out

curly

iTrader: (25)

IAT affects very little, and you can find the 2-3 settings it affects and zero them out. But I’d get it in.

I haven’t looked at your tune yet. Are you open loop idle? It’ll die for too reasons, fuel or air. Try adding air, take your entire open loop table and add 10. Easy number to remember and take back off if it doesn’t work. 2nd is fuel, which can be done a number of ways, from fuel table, required fuel, warmup percent, cranking fuel, after start percent, etc. easy way to do this is raising your required fuel, try half a point at a time. But you’ll wanna go back to the correctly calculated number eventually, and tune the correct fueling item, again if that additive works.

this is like poorly photoshopping your car a different color before you decide to paint it. These steps are in no way real “tuning”, but will help you understand what’s going on.

Treflipz

Loads of useful information there man! But a guy helping me turn the car through teamviewer got it to idle pretty decent to where I could set the ignition timing. The car will idle fine until I touch the gas and It dies instantly. It's not switching from cranking to rpm synced, we are extremely stumped right now.
I took the ms2 and hooked it up in an automatic miata. Set a few adjustments on the base map and it started right up. I could give it gas and even drive it.
THEN I put the stock ECU back in my car and it starts with or without the afm plugged in. I can give it gas and rev it to about 1500 rpms and hold it there until it dies. It also dies after idling too long
"rx8 injectors were still In i know"

I will be posting the adjusted tune and data log shortly

Treflipz

Slight update, I unplug each injector on the stock ECU and it acts as it should. I plugged in the megasquirt from starting it up on the automatic miata last night with that base map and it idles PERFECT so I set the timing to 10 degrees on the car and tightened it down. When I give it gas it still dies so it seems about easier to work with now that It idles as it should, timing is set, and I know my injectors are working

Treflipz

I feel so dumb LOL.
I CROSSED THE FUEL LINES!
it runs fine on megasquirt and stock!