Help me have a successful MS3x start
#1
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Help me have a successful MS3x start
Im attempting to install my homebuilt MS3x. To help it go smoothly could you guys take a look over my tune. Im starting to get lost in all the settings and could use a fresh pair of eyes.
The car:
94 1.8 Miata
MS3x (built to Frank's write up)
550cc injectors
EFR turbo @ 12 psi.
93 octane
The origin is Brain's maps he posted for 460cc on a 1.6
1.) I want to use Incorporate AFR. What are your feelings on my AFR map? I feel like it might be too rich but want to be conservative until I can get the VE map tuned.
2.) I didnt touch his timing map. Is it conservative enough to get the car on the dyno?
3.) Why do most of you guys run sequential with alternating & 2 squirts/cycle vs. simultaneous and 4 squirts/cycle?
4.) Are the dwell settings ok for 1.8 coils? DIYautotune has much higher numbers in their install instructions.
5.) Which firmware should I use?
ms3-release-1.2.0.zip
ms3-release-1.2.0a.zip
ms3-release-1.2.1.zip
6.) Do any of you guys use AFR safety? Is it effective?
7.) Do any of you guys run a filter in the MAP vacuum line? If so where do you source it.
Thanks for holding my hand
The car:
94 1.8 Miata
MS3x (built to Frank's write up)
550cc injectors
EFR turbo @ 12 psi.
93 octane
The origin is Brain's maps he posted for 460cc on a 1.6
1.) I want to use Incorporate AFR. What are your feelings on my AFR map? I feel like it might be too rich but want to be conservative until I can get the VE map tuned.
2.) I didnt touch his timing map. Is it conservative enough to get the car on the dyno?
3.) Why do most of you guys run sequential with alternating & 2 squirts/cycle vs. simultaneous and 4 squirts/cycle?
4.) Are the dwell settings ok for 1.8 coils? DIYautotune has much higher numbers in their install instructions.
5.) Which firmware should I use?
ms3-release-1.2.0.zip
ms3-release-1.2.0a.zip
ms3-release-1.2.1.zip
6.) Do any of you guys use AFR safety? Is it effective?
7.) Do any of you guys run a filter in the MAP vacuum line? If so where do you source it.
Thanks for holding my hand
#2
Boost Czar
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1. make everything out of boost 14.7, everything in 12. go from there, once youre hitting those targets after autotune, you can fine tune the AFR table you want to always run.
2. its very conservative.
3. i dunno.
4. then change them
5. 1.2.1
6. never used it.
7. nope, but you can use an inline fuel filter for a lawn mower.
2. its very conservative.
3. i dunno.
4. then change them
5. 1.2.1
6. never used it.
7. nope, but you can use an inline fuel filter for a lawn mower.
#4
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Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Bmore
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Ok first start was not successful. Car will crank but not fire. I get a back fire or two sometimes. Will run with Linkecu so I have not fried anything on the car. I double checked my harness wiring and it appears correct. While cranking I see rpm and pulse width in tunerstudio. Also I hear fuel pump prime.
Will not start with starting fluid so it does not seem to be a fuel issue. What is the best way to verify spark? I tried timing light but could not tell.
Should ignition capture be set to rising or falling?
Does my cam and crank sensor signal look correct?
Any other direction I should persue?
Thanks
Will not start with starting fluid so it does not seem to be a fuel issue. What is the best way to verify spark? I tried timing light but could not tell.
Should ignition capture be set to rising or falling?
Does my cam and crank sensor signal look correct?
Any other direction I should persue?
Thanks
#6
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Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Bmore
Posts: 77
Total Cats: 6
Should the signal be square? Four pulses?
Wiring checks OK on harness 2G to 32 MS3X.
Could this be my issue if the pots are NOT set correct?
"JP7 is a jumper for a pullup on the "Cam" input. This is typically required with hall or optical sensor inputs. It should not be used with VR sensor inputs. When using hall or optical sensors inputs, the cam input adjustment potentiometers should be set as follows. Turn both pots (R11 and R32) full anti-clockwise - approx five turns. Then turn the top one (R11) two turns clockwise. "
Thanks Brain!
Wiring checks OK on harness 2G to 32 MS3X.
Could this be my issue if the pots are NOT set correct?
"JP7 is a jumper for a pullup on the "Cam" input. This is typically required with hall or optical sensor inputs. It should not be used with VR sensor inputs. When using hall or optical sensors inputs, the cam input adjustment potentiometers should be set as follows. Turn both pots (R11 and R32) full anti-clockwise - approx five turns. Then turn the top one (R11) two turns clockwise. "
Thanks Brain!
Last edited by tincan; 05-09-2013 at 06:06 PM.
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