I flashed a new easytherm file and now i can't connect :(
Well after some badgering from the locals i downlaoded a MS2 downloader and reflashed my easy therm files. Just before this i had connectivity just fine in Megatune. But right after flashing the files the connectivity stoped. I tried to start the car but that was a no go. So i pulled the usb thinking maybe it had gotten dirty and reinserted it. No luck, then i pulled the MS and looked at it and took a few pics so i might better figure out why i never had spark. So how about it guys did i maybe burn up my chip? Is my spark wiring right?


Heellppp Thx


Heellppp Thx
what a mess.
when you burned it. how many rows did it say it wrote? 300 or 1700?
you don't have spark because the mod is completely wrong:
R26-29 (by the LEDS) looks like you have diodes instead of simple 1K Ohm reistors.
Q6-8 needs to have the transistors in place
I have no idea what the three wires off U6 are for.
the actual spark output mod on the back:
the lead from IGN goes the the + of the middle LED. It should be going to the TOP LED. and the resistor should be moved as well.
simple fix:
move both the green wires from the one side to the LEDs to a different spot. Match these:

only move the placement on the LED side, do not cross the wires like I have it, only move the placement from the + of the Led down a few pins. if that makes sense.
if you try to crank and it doesn't catch and it pop and fustes, then try swapping the outputs like my pic.
when you burned it. how many rows did it say it wrote? 300 or 1700?
you don't have spark because the mod is completely wrong:
R26-29 (by the LEDS) looks like you have diodes instead of simple 1K Ohm reistors.
Q6-8 needs to have the transistors in place
I have no idea what the three wires off U6 are for.
the actual spark output mod on the back:
the lead from IGN goes the the + of the middle LED. It should be going to the TOP LED. and the resistor should be moved as well.
simple fix:
move both the green wires from the one side to the LEDs to a different spot. Match these:

only move the placement on the LED side, do not cross the wires like I have it, only move the placement from the + of the Led down a few pins. if that makes sense.
if you try to crank and it doesn't catch and it pop and fustes, then try swapping the outputs like my pic.
Last edited by Braineack; Oct 15, 2007 at 10:17 AM.
I didn't take out any jumpers i just jacked in and uplaoded. When i closed the Downlaoder it erased everything. As far as settings goes i was getting through on com 7 with a 9600 com rate and a 1 for verbocity. I will look at the spark wires more closely. thx
Well after some badgering from the locals i downlaoded a MS2 downloader and reflashed my easy therm files. Just before this i had connectivity just fine in Megatune. But right after flashing the files the connectivity stoped. I tried to start the car but that was a no go. So i pulled the usb thinking maybe it had gotten dirty and reinserted it. No luck, then i pulled the MS and looked at it and took a few pics so i might better figure out why i never had spark. So how about it guys did i maybe burn up my chip? Is my spark wiring right?


Heellppp Thx


Heellppp Thxgoto DIYAT and look at how the mods are described on there.
I've read about issues with the downloader, I'd attempt it the hard way again, I seriously doubt that there are issues with your chip.
Great so now i need a stim :(, Scot how much would you charge me if i just sent it to you and asked you to fix it and install a mapdady and make sure i am right for ebc? This is looking like a PITA, i can see why adam got so burned out on it.
dude, this isn't iven a big problem, just d/l the DIYAT instructions grab a soldering iron and get to it. it'll take 20 minutes to re-do everything right. it's a piece of ****.
this is how it should look:

just pay for shipping and everything and throw in a few bucks, it's like a 10 minute fix. I should have enough leftover transitors and resistors.
Can you take another good shot of your components near the LEDs? and fwiw, what does your codebase output functions look like?
do you have any idea what the green/yellow wire that come off together do?
it looks like one gets grounded and the other a 5vref.

Is this the shot you want?
Seriusly guys this sucks how do i go back to having inacurate clt readings and fuel only operation i was happy before :( Hey scot shoot me your adress and i will paypall you moneys when you know what it needs bud/.
oh ok dude this is an easy fix. you can fix this.
move the middle resistor on the underside to the top led. and likewise with the spark output. the end. like the above diagram.
change your codebase outputs to this for the LEDS:

you should then have spark. that's it dude. you can do that.
also on the front. remove the blue resistor. it's the 5th one in from the edge.
reflash your firmware. do you want the correct .s19 file and easytherm files?
move the middle resistor on the underside to the top led. and likewise with the spark output. the end. like the above diagram.
change your codebase outputs to this for the LEDS:

you should then have spark. that's it dude. you can do that.
also on the front. remove the blue resistor. it's the 5th one in from the edge.
reflash your firmware. do you want the correct .s19 file and easytherm files?
Having spark is the least of my troubles i can't talk to my MS at all. That is why i started this thread. Before easytherm i had a car that would start and run all day now i have a car i can't even tweak on.
exception 2 mostly i haven't put it back in the car to test anything. Even if the ms2 DLer coms how can i get back to comming with it on my MT? Like i said i just want her to run agian.
Richy, you should use the MS-DOS batch script called "Download-Firmware" it comes in the DIYautotune packet in the MSnSE 029v folder. You just open it up and follow the directions, use the bootjumper pin and reflash it with just the basic firmware. Then go ahead and use the MSII downloader to reflash it without a boot jumper pin using you new easytherm .s19 file. I had to do that because when easytherm messes up it corrupts the firmware killing all comms.







