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Old 11-27-2010, 08:55 PM   #21
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FWIW, OP, the issues you're having would be had with any standalone EMS. This is not a Megasquirt issue.

Don't forget to post the .msq and a log or two of the engine dying.
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Old 11-27-2010, 11:02 PM   #22
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Are you trying to get it running so you can sell it?

http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums...rbo-miata.html
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Old 11-27-2010, 11:05 PM   #23
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it runs, but its running badly. the car is still for sale but interest on the places ive posted it have been small so i dont think i will. so i need to get it running better.

i just noticed that your link is to my MM listing. i feel like im being stalked now, creepy.
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Old 11-28-2010, 12:28 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SneakyB757 View Post
it runs, but its running badly. the car is still for sale but interest on the places ive posted it have been small so i dont think i will. so i need to get it running better.

i just noticed that your link is to my MM listing. i feel like im being stalked now, creepy.
Nah dont flatter yourself, a friend send it to me because he frequents the mm boards, i recognized the car because I read this thread earlier.
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Old 11-28-2010, 12:34 AM   #25
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i was going to say. its a little hard to hide in the bushes out side my window considering im on the 5th floor.
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Old 11-28-2010, 04:23 AM   #26
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I don't understand why you can't just load a base miata .msq, adjust the injector/engine size, set your throttle position, set your base timing and get the car started, and use autotune for your VE table to get it running smoothly to be able to get it to a proper dyno who knows MS for tuning.

This takes like 15 minutes.

And don't forget: Switch over to speed-density and adjust your Manifold Absolute Pressure(MAP) scaling accordingly!! (Make sure you have a vacuum line going from the MS to the intake manifold) From what I see you don't even have an Air Flow Meter.

Looks like you have a nicely sorted car mechanically. It's a shame you have to sell, because you're almost there.
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Old 11-28-2010, 09:30 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cococarbine3 View Post
I don't understand why you can't just load a base miata .msq, adjust the injector/engine size, set your throttle position, set your base timing and get the car started, and use autotune for your VE table to get it running smoothly to be able to get it to a proper dyno who knows MS for tuning.

This takes like 15 minutes.

And don't forget: Switch over to speed-density and adjust your Manifold Absolute Pressure(MAP) scaling accordingly!! (Make sure you have a vacuum line going from the MS to the intake manifold) From what I see you don't even have an Air Flow Meter.

Looks like you have a nicely sorted car mechanically. It's a shame you have to sell, because you're almost there.
well put
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Old 11-28-2010, 12:40 PM   #28
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ok i found the base miata w/o AFM so im going to put that on the car today. my only issue is that im using tuner studio to tune instead of MS, because my MS still will not open the MSPNP. when i open MS i have a long list of settings to choose from which are.
MS1 Extra 029v4
MS1 Original BG Code
MS1E HiRes 10G
MS2 Extra 2.1.0
MS2 Extra 3.0.3u alpha 20100522
MS2-MicroSquirt BG 2.890
after that its all the MSPNP which wont open any windows. so which should i use since i cant seem to find an auto tune on TS
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Old 11-28-2010, 05:15 PM   #29
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Ok here is what you need to do. Start Tunerstudio, select File-New Project. The first menu asks you options where you want to save your project and what firmware your megasquirt has. Make sure your megasquirt is turned on, and click the Detect button. I am going to assume you probably will have either the 029 or the 10G one.

The next menu has some options... Change your wideband to AEM and your MAP sensor to 400kPa (4bar).

Next menu tests your connection... you should have a 9600 baud rate.

Ok, now you're done. Next you want to load your .msq. Right click on this page:
http://www.megasquirtpnp.com/models/...20no%20AFM.msq
...and save page as .msq. Load that in Tunerstudio (File-Open Tune) as your base map.

Next adjust your Required Fuel (Basic Settings-Engine Constants) Engine size should be 1597cc + whatever a .060 overbore adds, and I'm not sure about your stroke. It's not super finicky so don't worry. You should have 750cc/min injectors.

To set your throttle position go to Tools-Calibrate TPS and do what it says.

Now try starting your car. You may have to adjust the Spark trigger angle slightly to get it started. Once you are able to get it running, follow these directions to set your timing: (Note: this guy is using MegaTune, but it has the same setting options on TunerStudio)

If you are unable to get the car idling smoothly, you may have to adjust your Cranking pulsewidths or the idle area of your Volumetric Efficiency(VE) table, most likely to lesser values because you have larger injectors.

Now, for the actual tuning part, you just want to be able to get your car driving smoothly. Since nothing is tuned, do NOT go all dukes of hazzard WOT pedal to the medal, as your car will blow up. You have to purchase the the full version of Tunerstudio to use autotune. Since you're selling the car, it isn't super necessary. Basically what it does is as you're driving, it automatically adjusts your VE table to reach whatever Air/Fuel ratio target you set at a certain load. I would just recommend you try to stay around stoichiometric until you can get to a dyno for actual tuning. You can also search here for timing and fuel maps from people with similar power, but they aren't guaranteed to work best as every engine setup is different, especially yours.

You're lucky I'm in a spoon feeding mood, I had to actually search when I was learning.
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Old 11-28-2010, 05:36 PM   #30
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i really appreciate the help. i spent like 2 hours or so reading those manuals last night and it fried my brain. I have a better idea of what needs to be adjusted especially with cold starts and my warm up enrichments. I just want to get this car to a point where i can get in and turn the key and it works without me jumping through hoops to get it to run.
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Old 12-02-2010, 07:58 PM   #31
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I picked up the full TS yesterday and set up a new tune on my car, i still need to adjust the cold start and the like but once it was warm it ran much better then the other two tunes i have. the one i was given ran to rich, the wideband was reading between 10 and 12 and it reeked of gas when i accelerated. the one i tweaked a litte ran a little lean around 15 most of the time. the one i have now stays between about 12.7 and 14 which is great not too rich but not lean, so im making progress.
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Old 12-02-2010, 11:13 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SneakyB757 View Post
I picked up the full TS yesterday and set up a new tune on my car, i still need to adjust the cold start and the like but once it was warm it ran much better then the other two tunes i have. the one i was given ran to rich, the wideband was reading between 10 and 12 and it reeked of gas when i accelerated. the one i tweaked a litte ran a little lean around 15 most of the time. the one i have now stays between about 12.7 and 14 which is great not too rich but not lean, so im making progress.
Thats a lot lean if you were in boost. Cruising down the road you should be right around 14.6. Then it should start to transition down as you go into boost. By full boost you should be around 11.5 to have a conservative and safe tune. You could squeak some more torque out by bringin it up to upper 11's to low 12's, but most decide to play it safe. I say your running to lean right now at 12.7-14 but thats me. Glad to hear your getting the hang of things
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Old 12-03-2010, 01:00 AM   #33
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it ran 15 cruising down the road but it would drop to 10 or 11 when i boost on it. the 12.7 to 14 is what the auto tune spit out. one of the other things i adjusted was the boost target table which was all at 70 kpa which is like 10 psi. the question i have about that is, should i have it staggered like i do now ie
70kpa or 10 psi at 1 and 2k rpm
101kpa or 14psi at 3k rpm
120kpa or 17psi at 4k rpm
140kpa or 20psi at 5 and 7k rpm

or should i run it differently? i think its safer running it this way so i cant throw a lot of boost through the engine at low rpms but some insight to this couldnt hurt.
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Old 12-03-2010, 04:53 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SneakyB757 View Post
it ran 15 cruising down the road but it would drop to 10 or 11 when i boost on it. the 12.7 to 14 is what the auto tune spit out. one of the other things i adjusted was the boost target table which was all at 70 kpa which is like 10 psi. the question i have about that is, should i have it staggered like i do now ie
70kpa or 10 psi at 1 and 2k rpm
101kpa or 14psi at 3k rpm
120kpa or 17psi at 4k rpm
140kpa or 20psi at 5 and 7k rpm

or should i run it differently? i think its safer running it this way so i cant throw a lot of boost through the engine at low rpms but some insight to this couldnt hurt
.

Boost target table....A/F targets are what you want to set

Your never going to hit 10psi at 1000rpm. Boost is directly related to exhaust velocity which is why if you are just gently cruising, you can be at 6000rpm and have very little even possibly no boost.

100kpa is 0 psi .... 240kpa would be 20psi (I know...your thinking 240 should be 34psi, but its not. The room your in now is currently at ~14psi and you would be adding 20 on top of that)

Hopefully others chime in, I'm no expert, just another guy that went through the same ****.
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Old 12-03-2010, 05:28 PM   #35
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well im a noob at this so lol. i set the table to 70kpa for low rpm and everything else is at 140 so its boosting like it used to. a professional mechanic looked over my car today and told me that the little silver bit sticking out from the top of valve cover should be plugged because its probably causing some sort of issue. he gave me a rubber plug for it and told me to run it passed you guys to see what you think about plugging it. we put it on the car and it ran but it was pouring white smoke out the back. he said that it just needed to be tuned to run with the plug but it should run better because hes pretty sure its a vacuum leak.
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Old 12-03-2010, 07:26 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SneakyB757 View Post
well im a noob at this so lol. i set the table to 70kpa for low rpm and everything else is at 140 so its boosting like it used to. a professional mechanic looked over my car today and told me that the little silver bit sticking out from the top of valve cover should be plugged because its probably causing some sort of issue. he gave me a rubber plug for it and told me to run it passed you guys to see what you think about plugging it. we put it on the car and it ran but it was pouring white smoke out the back. he said that it just needed to be tuned to run with the plug but it should run better because hes pretty sure its a vacuum leak.
You can either put a cap on it, slap a breather (mini filter lookin thing) on it, or run it to a catch can. I opted for the first choice.
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Old 12-04-2010, 12:16 AM   #37
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well i put the cap on it and i dont think it will help. the car was just dumping white smoke out of the exhaust. sure the AFR stayed around 14 the whole time but i dont think its safe to drive at all even to try and auto tune it.
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Old 12-04-2010, 01:01 AM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SneakyB757 View Post
well i put the cap on it and i dont think it will help. the car was just dumping white smoke out of the exhaust. sure the AFR stayed around 14 the whole time but i dont think its safe to drive at all even to try and auto tune it.
I think some serious reading / research is in order for you my friend...
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