dont touch the idle screw. if it was good before in the same position, changing it now will only mask the apparently bad job of tuning you did.

I was outside with my laptop everyday for weeks to fine tune my idle. You need to become one with your idle valve.

 

Well, right off the bat I see that the VE values are higher in the 1000 column than in the 900 column. It's only a few points, but that's enough to cause idle mixture to fluctuate, and artificially accelerate the engine out of the 1000 column after the idle valve puts it there.

Make those numbers identical, and see if it helps.

 

Thanks Joe and Brain.
The problem with leaving the bleeder where it is, is I dont know if it is in the right place at all. I messed with it following that guys instructions to get all the ve , afr and spark tables the same in the idle rpm band. The issue with that I think is the valve frooze where it was when I pulled the wire and once I replaced the wire the idle dropped and it died. I have it entering cl idle now but I had to adjust the bleed screw to get it to. I am wondering if I can pull the wire while its not in cl and retry those instructions with better luck.

Joe I think the ve table changed because auto tune it adjusting them. I was hoping to get some more auto tune in down around 1500 rpm before I stopped letting it change things down there. I had to reload firmware and tune yesterday and wanted the autotune to have time to treek the above 40kpa part of the table under 1500. If that makes any sense.

I will work on it some more today and report back thanks again for the help.