|
Idle issue with MS2 unit, Log and Msq inside.
1 Attachment(s)
I am having issues with the car idling after getting my MS Installed and I swear on MS1 there was a setting to tell it where to idle at and I just can not find it in tuner studio among the other things I am getting used too.
I made a data log, it goes to 3700-3800 and sits there upon start up and then starts going back and forth up and down. Here is my Data Log: http://www.fileden.com/files/2009/6/...9//running.msl This is on a 2000 Miata using a AbeFM MS2 unit, the Miata is NA currently this is just me getting used to the new setup. (This setup does not use Joe's spark mod FYI) I believe this is my latest tuner studio complete file, I just saved it after not closing TS after coming inside. http://www.fileden.com/files/2009/6/...7_19.11.48.msq Any and all help would rock, thanks! ----UPDATE 11/28 6:20PM---- Alright I am at my wits end. I tried looking through the old tune file that came with this MS for version 2.1.0 I believe. I made some changes as a test and I still have issues but now the idle is just jumping up and down but never drops below 2700. Last File ran before trying to mirror many changes from the old 2.1.0 tune: http://www.fileden.com/files/2009/6/...69//backup.msq Current Tester Setup: http://www.fileden.com/files/2009/6/26/2490169//Current Tester.msq I am really at a loss here I don't even feel like I can make a dent in this. Please guys, this idle thing has been kicking my butt. ---UPDATE 11/29 10:30PM---- I thought I found something.... but I only ended up scaring myself. So I was looking through all my MS files I keep as backups (I had some really old stuff lol) and I had downloaded a group file that I guess Abe made that contained two MSQ's. I loaded the newest one up and the issue was the same but he had quite a few changes across the board so I figured why not. I am uploading that tune right now as we speak. But I played around and found this: Basic Settings -> CLT Based Rev Limit The table really looked strange but then I honestly was not familiar with this tables purpose. Looking though my idle seemed to be following its guide lines so I said screw it and dragged the plot down (This is all in my Data Log that I have uploaded too) and low and behold the idle started coming right down... but the car started running really rich and not recovering. It also started running like crap and when I finally shut it off sounded like it back fired.... The idle was def coming down I just felt the car was running to rough so now would you care looking things over Brain and telling me what you think? He changed some of the crank and dwell etc I am curious if I should put those back or not... But anyway here is the data log: http://www.fileden.com/files/2009/6/26/2490169//Current Setup 2.msl And the new MSQ: http://www.fileden.com/files/2009/6/26/2490169//Current Tester 2.msq Well here is the latest log I played around a little and only succeed in scaring the crap out of myself and heating the car up almost to far well beyond the limits I wanted... http://www.fileden.com/files/2009/6/26/2490169//Current Setup 3.msl I put back in the stock ecu and cooled it off seems fine idles just fine I did not even adjust the idle screw yet. I have no idea what this is I turned off the Idle Control tried different timing (Which lead to the high heat I am going to go back and review just how high and how long... it still had coolant but it did drain around 30% through the coolant over flow which was almost full as it was). A scary night with no answers.... I really do not see how the last owner got this running no problems, and I can not even get it to idle. Reviewing the log there was less than 2 minutes between going from 205 to 250.... just a steady rise like the fans did not even come on it never seemed to just spike but even the dash temp gauge did not move till right near the end when I caught it (the gauges do not work when making changes to menu items so I could not see it on MS itself). I shut it off obviously so were talking less than 2 minutes from rise to shut off but... I don't mind toys nor what they bring but this was too close for comfort on a car with less than 70k. Now I am going to be paranoid I hurt something. Less than 2 minutes to reach that temp and I caught it but it does not change the fact that it unnerved me. It only take a split second as everyone likes to say (Including me). The logical side says I am fine I caught it and handled it correctly but doubt never fails on these kinds of issues to make you second guess yourself. My latest updates to the MSQ for tomorrows tests if I am brave enough: http://www.fileden.com/files/2009/6/...9_23.35.57.msq ------UPDATE 12/14/2010-------- Alright, with the car running via the IAC unplugged I have been riving it and tuning it as follows. I am looking into getting the warmup enrichment right and smoothing things out but there is still this High Idle Issue if I plug the IAC back in. I would love some advice on my current msq and the data logs I have done the past few days. I will put them in order from the first day to today's last one. Any and all advice on things I should look at, smooth out etc I welcome. I feel a random hesitation at times and I am sure its data logged esp this morning as well as being way to rich on cold start this morning but I think I am starting to get it pretty close to being dialed in. Logs: http://www.fileden.com/files/2009/6/...un 1 12.11.msl http://www.fileden.com/files/2009/6/...un 2 12.11.msl http://www.fileden.com/files/2009/6/...un 3 12.11.msl http://www.fileden.com/files/2009/6/...ning 12.13.msl http://www.fileden.com/files/2009/6/...Home 12.13.msl http://www.fileden.com/files/2009/6/...rive 12.14.msl http://www.fileden.com/files/2009/6/...rive 12.14.msl Again they are in order from start to today, the last two are today's. Here is my Warm up enrichment since I have IAC control completely off (Its disconnected so I believe that to be the proper choice at this time): Attachment 192534 And here is the Current MSQ: http://www.fileden.com/files/2009/6/...est%20Tune.msq Thanks, hopefully someone will have an idea oh and on the fan comment I tried changing it to one and noticed no difference, put it back to 0 and checked to find both fans were on. |
Alright I made some changes and took it for a drive to see if I could work anything out.... nothing really.
I can tell you the car idles between 3-4k no matter what and without any input sat at 45 in 4th.... other than that when on the throttle it was nice some fine tuning and it would be great but I can't do anything about the idle it seems. I tried looking over other logs including a few AbeFM ones and making changes with no luck. I just tried a few more changes with no luck either it goes to 4k on start up and then bounces between 3-4k the rest of the time.... DAMIT. (I even closed the idle air screw all the way.... or opened it all the way but I doubt it now that I second guessed myself I will go check it in the morning) New MSQ: http://www.fileden.com/files/2009/6/...9//Testing.msq New Data Log: http://www.fileden.com/files/2009/6/26/2490169//Took it for a test run 1.msl Hopefully I can get some help with all that information, even if its a fix I should have already seen but have overlooked... I just want to get this idle smoothed out. |
Did you check the "DIYPNP enhanced group buy" thread? There are quite a few of us that had high idle issues and many got them worked out.
There are some links in there that might help. I'm not familiar with ms2 enough to offer any more advice, but hope that helps at least some. |
Actually I have been reading your logs playing with some of your settings just to test with oddly enough. Your one of the few 99's I can find msq's for online.
I will check the thread thanks for the heads up. |
Turn on PWN Closed loop boost control. I know Abe doesn't use it, but I much enjoy it.
http://msextra.com/doc/ms3/Idle_Cont...00000000000000 |
I am looking over the link you sent me and it seems that some items are not showing up in Tuner Studio.
I also noticed the instructions say MS3 up top, I am using MS2. Should I be concerned or? AKA I have none of this: 1. Throttle Lift - On throttle lift, the code opens the valve to the value learned in the last iteration of the PID loop + the dashpot adder. The logic here is that the last learned value should result in an RPM close to the target RPM. The dashpot adder is added so that when RPM settles, it settles to an RPM slightly higher than the target. This is in case the air conditioning was turned on or IAT increased or anything else that might make RPM lower than the last time the PID code ran. 2. RPM settles - After throttle lift, eventually the clutch is pushed in and RPM drops to wherever it will settle given the learned value + the dashpot adder. Hopefully the idle has settled to an RPM that is less than the commanded target + the Idle Activation RPM adder. IF so, then the code will wait for the amount of time specified by the PID delay, and then enter PID control. If RPM settles above the commanded target + Idle Activation RPM adder, the code then starts checking the PID lockout detection conditions. Assuming those condtions are met, the code will still enter the PID loop after the amount of time specified by the PID delay. 3. PID control activates, RPM starts dropping to target - After the PID delay expires, the PID code will be activated. RPM will slowly drop to the target over the number of seconds specified by the PID ramp to target time. 4. Normal idle speed reached - RPM reaches the commanded target. PID continues regulating RPM until the throttle is pressed. Normal idle speed reached - RPM reaches the commanded target. PID continues regulating RPM until the throttle is pressed. |
turn on pwm closed loop idle like i said. this code for ms2 and ms3 is the same.
you are using warm up only mode...which is weaksauce. |
I swear I had it on closed loop idle, maybe I changed it while playing around I will put it back I have done most of the other settings.
But I am ready after reading all that and playing around to go give it a shot, Everything else is set I am going to try working on this section to gain results I hope. Either way thank you for the help I really do appreciate it. The following basic steps should be used for tuning the PID controller gains: 1. Zero all the gains - Set all the gains to 0%. This is so that the effects of tuning the I-term in the next step are not confused with the effects of any other setting. 2. Tune the Integral (I) gain - The Integral gain is the only term that controls whether the code actually reaches its target. Higher values for Integral gain will result in the code being able to get closer to the commanded target; however, a value that is too high will result in oscillation. The easiest way to determine a good value for the I term is to keep increasing it until oscillation occurs, then slightly lower it. If this value is increased to 200% without reaching a point where oscillation occurs, then the RPM with valve opened setting can be decreased as far as necessary, and the open duty/steps setting and closed duty/steps setting can be made further apart to make the PID loop more sensitive. 3. Tune the Proportional (P) gain - After tuning the I gain so that the RPM reaches the commanded target without oscillation, the P gain can be tuned. The best way to tune this is to set it as high as possible without getting any oscillation. After setting this, try turning on the air conditioning or other accessories that normally lower RPM or increase load. When these accessories are turned on, the RPM should dip a bit then recover (the valve position should increase significantly). Using longer PID ramp to target times can also make it so that when the PID algorithm engages, a higher P gain can be set without causing oscillation. 4. Tune the Derivative (D) gain - For most users, use of the D gain should not be necessary. It substantially dampens the response of the loop. Some final tips: * Idle Fuel Tuning - Before even attempting to tune Closed-loop Idle speed control, tune the area around idle so that if RPM goes up or down or load goes up or down, the AFR stays close to the same value. Changing AFR can affect idle speed, which can then cause the PID code to try to correct, getting into an unrecoverable oscillation. http://www.fileden.com/files/2009/6/26/2490169//New Idle Settings Base.msq |
keep AFRs and Spark angle constant at idle helps tremendously. I'm using tableswitching so when I turn on A/C the spark holds 17* vs. 12* without it. Otherwise I was using the timing advance table to try to achieve the same effect.
|
Thanks I will go make some changes in that area, I just keep wondering why with all these settings it goes so high on idle 3-4k I feel like I have over looked a simple setting but I just don't see it.
Either way lets see what this does! Hope to drive it around town tonight for fun. |
Ok I just got back from playing around and I think somehow the settings are inverted.
While watching I noticed on the Closed Loop Idle Target that as the point went down the RPM went up. It no longer jumps all over but instead of dropping as the program settings show (Uploading that pic now) it goes up. I was up to 4400RPM. So here is the Data Log: http://www.fileden.com/files/2009/6/...8_15.53.12.msl Here is the picture: http://www.fileden.com/files/2009/6/...69//CLidle.JPG I thought there was a way to invert the setting or something to that effect. Thanks! |
Alright I sat down and played with the settings and it did nothing, nothing I changed made it go down or change. I am going to go back and look over the changes from now compared to before but instead of jumping all over now it just gets to almost 4500rpm and sits there.
I really have to be overlooking something stupid on my end I just can not find it. The picture I loaded shows it should be telling the car to idle where it belongs and instead it just goes sky high. |
Alright I am at my wits end. I tried looking through the old tune file that came with this MS for version 2.1.0 I believe. I made some changes as a test and I still have issues but now the idle is just jumping up and down but never drops below 2700.
Last File ran before trying to mirror many changes from the old 2.1.0 tune: http://www.fileden.com/files/2009/6/...69//backup.msq Current Tester Setup: http://www.fileden.com/files/2009/6/26/2490169//Current Tester.msq I am really at a loss here I don't even feel like I can make a dent in this. Please guys, this idle thing has been kicking my butt. |
If you cant get the idle below 2700RPM you have a bigger issue.
change it to warm up mode only and force the valve to like 10%DC...what is your idle speed? if above 1200RPM, then fix your vacuum leak. |
I thought it was a Vacuum leak too so I hooked back up the stock ECU and only reopened the throttle screw some. Idled just like it was supposed too made no sense at all.
I will try that though I was reading last night of other throttle issues were people disconnected the IAC and it went away I am going to try that too. |
The issue doesn't go away if you unplug the IACV. You've just masked it with a shitty work around.
Go to idle valve test mode, and force the valve at 0% DC. Then gradually increase the PWM%, do the RPMS increase or decrease? What is the range in which the valve operates? and what are the RPM points? For example, my valve operates between 20-70%DC, anything above and below have no reactions. This can allow it to go to 700-2000RPM or so. |
Going to try that now thanks Brain.
|
If I look at your first log, your idle valve is locked at 23%DC. Which is fairly shut. It doesn't move. The idle going up and down is in direct relation to your tune...specifically your Fueling.
Look how your pulse width dumps in a shit ton of fuel, then none at all. That's what's causing the oscillation, NOT the idle valve. |
I will try a base fuel map from another tune and see what it does too then, I was just walking out to the garage to try the other ideas I like this I have a few goals.
Thanks again Brain really appreciate the help I will paypal you a site donation for all this. |
tune out the oscillation with the fuel map...
looking at your first map posted. If you look at your idle valve settings, the idle valve works within a range of 6% to 23%, so it's acutally locked open on your first log at 23%...so that's why you have so much RPMs. go to idle settings, change it to PWM warmup...then change the PWM table and force all the numbers to 6% and see how it idles. Tune your fuel. you should also go into general settings, lags, and lower the TPS lag threshold value, this will smooth out your TPS signal...it's pretty dirty on that log and might be triggering the fuel to be cut like it is. |
Originally Posted by Braineack
(Post 662910)
If you cant get the idle below 2700RPM you have a bigger issue.
change it to warm up mode only and force the valve to like 10%DC...what is your idle speed? if above 1200RPM, then fix your vacuum leak.
Originally Posted by Braineack
(Post 663011)
The issue doesn't go away if you unplug the IACV. You've just masked it with a shitty work around.
Go to idle valve test mode, and force the valve at 0% DC. Then gradually increase the PWM%, do the RPMS increase or decrease? What is the range in which the valve operates? and what are the RPM points? For example, my valve operates between 20-70%DC, anything above and below have no reactions. This can allow it to go to 700-2000RPM or so.
Originally Posted by Braineack
(Post 663015)
If I look at your first log, your idle valve is locked at 23%DC. Which is fairly shut. It doesn't move. The idle going up and down is in direct relation to your tune...specifically your Fueling.
Look how your pulse width dumps in a shit ton of fuel, then none at all. That's what's causing the oscillation, NOT the idle valve.
Originally Posted by Braineack
(Post 663020)
tune out the oscillation with the fuel map...
looking at your first map posted. If you look at your idle valve settings, the idle valve works within a range of 6% to 23%, so it's acutally locked open on your first log at 23%...so that's why you have so much RPMs. go to idle settings, change it to PWM warmup...then change the PWM table and force all the numbers to 6% and see how it idles. Tune your fuel. you should also go into general settings, lags, and lower the TPS lag threshold value, this will smooth out your TPS signal...it's pretty dirty on that log and might be triggering the fuel to be cut like it is. |
Test on PM Warmup with minor changes:
http://www.fileden.com/files/2009/6/26/2490169//stock fuel map.msl Stock Fuel Map Data Log with changes: http://www.fileden.com/files/2009/6/26/2490169//stock fuel map.msl Current Msq: http://www.fileden.com/files/2009/6/...9_12.32.00.msq |
Tried disconnecting the iac jumped a little then went straight to 4400rpm, oh i forgot to update a few things dang it.
Anyway datalog: http://www.fileden.com/files/2009/6/...//disconnected iac.msl |
are you using tuner studio? your firmware is never attached to your MSQ.
|
yes I am using the latest firmware sorry its not attaching.
|
Oh dude, there's like major problems with your map. first off...look at the log, your spark angle is over 60°...it's doubled what the map reads.
you're using percent baro as your igniton load algorithm. it should be changed to speed density, and the secondary disabled (under more engine constants). Having spark advanced so greatly will easily increase engine speed like youre seeing. ill keep updating what problems I see... hang tight. |
I will keep refreshing, and making changes I caught that too I have no idea why that changed it obviously is my fault but I just changed it back and made sure both said speed density now.
I am going to load default tables again and go from there. New data log: http://www.fileden.com/files/2009/6/26/2490169//Base map I think.msl |
turn off incorporate AFRtarget.
your AFR targets table is a mess. Are you using Narrowband or AEM or something? could be my conversion. lower limit of baro should be 90kPa okay, see what changing that does... turn OFF secondary ignition load alg. |
Checking now and turning it off, that last data log shows everything with how you said above I changed it back from what it turned into. (I swear I don't remembering changing that but oh well).
I am using a wideband, LC1 |
that's probably what the issue was...your timing is double what it should be...im sure the ignition algorithms being what they were fubared you...timing should be around 12° at idle at 850-900RPM. Even at 1500RPM, you only need that much. Not 60°...
|
alright all changes made, stock maps starting up now... hope this works.
Data Log and MSQ coming. |
NM my mistake
|
look at your last log you just posted. the spark angle is indicating over 60° of timing.
your VE spark map doesn't go over 40°. The log looks to be doubled what your map is set to. I'm betting since you had percent baro selected, it was doing something odd with the timing table. Trying to idle at 60° spark angle is insane potentially damaging. it will speed up your motor plenty good... it's not a number you ever want to see your spark angle set to. Even jumping from 10° to 20° at idle on my car can increase my engine speed a few hundred RPM. |
Alright I am missing something here. I have changed the tables with others to no avail so I am not doing the right this I am not changing the right area or this setting was a bad one off the tune I am using.
I am going to DL DIY tunes again make the spark changes and try again because something is wrong with this map and changing all 3 tables to what I thought were stocks did nothing at all. |
I never told you to touch any table. just a few settings.
your spark table looks good, however, your bad settings are causing crazy high ridiculous spark angles. and this is causing your idle problems. all you need to do is change your primary ignition algorithm back to speed density. disable the second. and then disable include AFRtargets. fix your AFR targets table later. changing those settings should fix your car. you must have done this when fucking around, because your first log posted here looks okay, max timing of 28°. |
.... well I feel sheepish I have been messing with the ignition table, and afr table.
Yeah... let me go try this again. |
I made all the changes found under:
Basic Settings -> More Engine Constants that was the last log I believe. Since my table does not have it going over 60 I am not sure where its getting such a signal to do so any longer I thats why i thought something was wrong with my Ignition table was what you meant (My fault sorry). Where should I be looking to make changes then? |
i think that's it. i just went through your entire msq page by page and listed off the issues I saw.
fixing those settings coupled with keeping the idle valve at a lower dc% should have better results. |
Also just made a donation through the site thingy since I was not sure where else to send it, as promised.
The help is great even if I am overlooking something I shouldn't be I appreciate your time and assistance. |
Alright I am going to upload my current Msq, I checked everything under:
Basic Settings -> More Engine Constants So this should be right then? I will do a data log as soon as I load it up, I pulled the car up to the apartment out of the garage since most everyone is at work. Give it a shot here since its closer. Current msq: http://www.fileden.com/files/2009/6/...169//Hopefully Right.msq |
looks okay now. see what happens. your idle settings will need to be altered to try to lower the engine speed, like you tried before.
|
Damit the battery is to dead it trys to kick over and just dies.\
Ok just got it data logging now. |
Alright it just idles up and down still, I put it on PWM Warm Up and changed everything (I believe where I was supposed to) to 6% and logged it as well as playing around with other settings I believe you mentioned (If I was doing it correctly is another matter...).
Here is the data log, I ran it for awhile hoping it would put some power back in the battery. Here we go: http://www.fileden.com/files/2009/6/26/2490169//Current Setup.msl |
blah, beats me at this point.
|
Without Abe to tell me if maybe something is different with his (Although I have looked at the only AbeFM tune I could find (I can post it for comparison if need be) and made changes to mirror it) but either way this is just too weird.
I am going to throw in the stock ECU, plug back in the MAF and IAT and start it up. Just because now I even doubt myself although I need to reopen the Idle Air Screw again. |
there's something amiss with the MS, it's not your idle valve.
what does it look like when you take a composite log? |
I have not done that before, so I have no answer for it at this point.
|
I think I found something!
So I was looking through all my MS files I keep as backups (I had some really old stuff lol) and I had downloaded a group file that I guess Abe made that contained two MSQ's. I loaded the newest one up and the issue was the same but he had quite a few changes across the board so I figured why not. I am uploading that tune right now as we speak. But I played around and found this: Basic Settings -> CLT Based Rev Limit The table really looked strange but then I honestly was not familiar with this tables purpose. Looking though my idle seemed to be following its guide lines so I said screw it and dragged the plot down (This is all in my Data Log that I have uploaded too) and low and behold the idle started coming right down... but the car started running really rich and not recovering. It also started running like crap and when I finally shut it off sounded like it back fired.... The idle was def coming down I just felt the car was running to rough so now would you care looking things over Brain and telling me what you think? He changed some of the crank and dwell etc I am curious if I should put those back or not... But anyway here is the data log: http://www.fileden.com/files/2009/6/26/2490169//Current Setup 2.msl And the new MSQ: http://www.fileden.com/files/2009/6/26/2490169//Current Tester 2.msq |
But this seems to be linked to the rev limiter... so this can't be it as the MS was just limiting the car's rev limit to lower the idle and it hints why the car was running like crap....
Damit I thought I had got somewhere but I think this was just a fluke... on a side note I guess I could read up on this setup but I don't see myself using it. |
Well here is the latest log I played around a little and only succeed in scaring the crap out of myself and heating the car up almost to far well beyond the limits I wanted...
http://www.fileden.com/files/2009/6/26/2490169//Current Setup 3.msl I put back in the stock ecu and cooled it off seems fine idles just fine I did not even adjust the idle screw yet. I have no idea what this is I turned off the Idle Control tried different timing (Which lead to the high heat I am going to go back and review just how high and how long... it still had coolant but it did drain around 30% through the coolant over flow which was almost full as it was). A scary night with no answers.... I really do not see how the last owner got this running no problems, and I can not even get it to idle. Reviewing the log there was less than 2 minutes between going from 205 to 250.... just a steady rise like the fans did not even come on it never seemed to just spike but even the dash temp gauge did not move till right near the end when I caught it (the gauges do not work when making changes to menu items so I could not see it on MS itself). I shut it off obviously so were talking less than 2 minutes from rise to shut off but... This just scared me a little more than I would like. I have a KL v6 sitting here for the car but I was not ready yet to do the swap I wanted to get MS working first and used to MS2... now I am just thinking about selling this unit and walking away from it. I don't mind toys nor what they bring but this was too close for comfort on a car with less than 70k. Now I am going to be paranoid I hurt something. Less than 2 minutes to reach that temp and I caught it but it does not change the fact that it unnerved me. It only take a split second as everyone likes to say (Including me). The logical side says I am fine I caught it and handled it correctly but doubt never fails on these kinds of issues to make you second guess yourself. |
have you calibrated your CLT, AIT, and WB sensors under tools? I ask because none of them look correct.
on your last log "//Current Setup 3.msl" the idle valve is still locked fully open. Can you try it again fully closed and see if that solves it? I was looking for a clt based rev limiter but didn't see one on your map when searching through...I'm too used to ms3 and didn't notice any when looking at your msq, so I never suggested it. |
It was under the rev limit options but if its just limiting the revs due to coolant level and I set it to work at normal temps then will it not cause me to not be able to go anywhere while trying to drive the vehicle normally?
I am positive I did calibrate the sensors but I will do it again just to be safe. I will close it again and see what it does. |
Alright I brought the MS in and figured I would use the Stimulator that I also bought and see if it does the same thing on the stim too. Or I would just play with it inside and see if I find anything.
I also wanted to test the Miata with the stock ECU and see how it did. I forgot to open the idle screw but it idled just fine still. I opened it up where it was before and it runs great no issues so I think the coolant sensor was not calibrated correctly now, if it had gotten that high even for that short of a time I think the stock gauge would have gone much higher I just noticed it on the rise. But either way everything seems fine so my 110 second scare from 205-250 supposedly seems to have been caught when it needed to be. Hopefully though I can now figure this out, it has to be something with Abe's Unit that can be jumpered, something wrong in the tune or something wired differently in the MS2 unit. |
Alright I have not gotten to play with it but I thought things were great on the car driving it today until I had to work tonight....
Randomly (And I mean randomly I can not repeat it when I want) it will try to stall out. I thought it was because I needed to reset the idle air screw so I have been screwing with it literally... (Pun intended) Its still doing it, idles great but randomly it drops to 500 and then dies. Then it got worse but again randomly, it hesitated and bucked and then was fine. I found a plug wire loose thought that might be it and it has not bucked but it did die again tonight. I am going to swap on another set of coil packs, make a thread asking the OHM reading for the coil pack (If I can check it that way, I would think you could) should be for factory specs and I have run across a few threads talking about the CAS. I guess I might just have found a possible cause here for my issues... wouldn't that be nice. Hopefully Friday I can jump back on this and actually make some progress. I again want to thank everyone for the help, Brain if your ever close I really want to buy you a beer I owe you that. Hope a few stick with me through the rest of this. Thanks! |
so is your idle within a normal range now?
|
On the stock ECU yes, but its having that random issue with dropping and stalling and now the bucking.
I am going to check the CAS today and the codes. I have a spare CAS now that I am sure but then I had a spare Crank Sensor too. I will get back with that info maybe it was the gremlin in all this. |
ah gotcha.
|
So today I pulled the codes and got:
P0113 P0118 P0123 P1141 So I cleared them and they came back shortly. So I replaced the Coolant Sensor, IAT Sensor, MAF and the whole Throttle Body with both the TPS and IAC sensors. Made it a block and the car stalled again. The gentleman I get all my Miata parts from was out of ECU's for 99-00, but he believe the ECU was the problem. All those codes mean High Out put except for 1141 I believe is MAF related. All pieces have been replaced so I am not sure what to make of it here. With all those parts replaced I find myself wondering just what could be the issue but this was not an issue before I started MS so either wiring is the issue for some reason (less likely in my opinion), the Stock ECU got damaged some how (More likely) or there is another issue I am not finding. What do you think of this Brain? |
Well i drove it the past few days with no issues. I am going to check codes again now but only expect the usual O2 Error for the second O2 being removed.
I guess once cleared everything was fine, or so I hope but the car has no driving issues at all now. I will report back but this friday I hope to put MS back in and find everything to be working as it should and one of the parts that I replaced to have been the culprit. |
I'm am really tired of this BS, I checked all the sensors are calibrated.
I watch the Wideband reading and on the Gauge included the reading goes from 14-15 and in MS it reads 11-12. I have reset the wideband twice with it connected to the laptop no change so megasquirt is just pissing me off. The isle is still the same, I have a new MSQ. I am tired of this bull shit, it makes no sense to any board but it does it none the less. The reading on the Tuner Studio board is obviously screwed up as it thinks its reading 11-12 on AFR while the gauge says differently and both are configured identically in the LC Settings Program. Someone has to be able to figure out WTF this is, sensors have been changed, tons of playing with the program and no matter what I can not idle nor get any help from Abe on what it could possibly be related to or that I need to change. Is the Idle Valve still reading locked open? I have no idea why it would be but I have tried Warmup and Closed loop it changes nothing. 3-4k idle and thats it. http://www.fileden.com/files/2009/6/...1_17.36.10.msl |
| All times are GMT -4. The time now is 11:36 AM. |
© 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands