Idle viiiiiibration!
#42
Well, it fixed several things I've been having problems with.
Hell, the goddamn AFR's actually match up perfectly now between tunerstudio and my gauge. Starting is so much better (SO much better) with the new firmware, and it actually helped a little bit with the misfiring.
But it didn't solve it. It's still pretty bad. Should I swap back to my old plugs, and see if they don't have such large problems Ele?
(Edit) Yeah, holy ----. It solved a ton of problems I've been having with various bits and pieces, but it didn't solve the misfiring problem.
Hell, the goddamn AFR's actually match up perfectly now between tunerstudio and my gauge. Starting is so much better (SO much better) with the new firmware, and it actually helped a little bit with the misfiring.
But it didn't solve it. It's still pretty bad. Should I swap back to my old plugs, and see if they don't have such large problems Ele?
(Edit) Yeah, holy ----. It solved a ton of problems I've been having with various bits and pieces, but it didn't solve the misfiring problem.
I hate to throw tools at this issue but I would have a scope on the injectors, coils and crank sensors to rule out any electronic faults. I'm also going to assume stable/correct cam timing and good valve train with good vacuum gage readings and not a wildly moving signal at idle. I'd also check fuel pressure for delivery and be sure it's not bleeding down fast with engine off indicating a leaking injector.
#44
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Well, superdve, unfortunately I swapped back to the old set of BKR6E's. Then I swapped to a new set of BKR7E's...Ran damn near perfectly on both. They don't have nearly the...smoothness, the much better feel of the new plugs on acceleration, but they run damn near perfectly anywhere else. The new plugs you recommended have all sorts of hesitation or misfires if not under acceleration, but I'll be damned if they don't feel amazing under acceleration.
Following is the datalog of the new set of BRK7E's. They are running rich as hell because the tune is for the new plugs Superdve recommended, however.
Working on a log of the plugs Superdve recommended, and also to make entirely certain I didn't change something in all the switching of plugs/etc. I did.
Following is the datalog of the new set of BRK7E's. They are running rich as hell because the tune is for the new plugs Superdve recommended, however.
Working on a log of the plugs Superdve recommended, and also to make entirely certain I didn't change something in all the switching of plugs/etc. I did.
#45
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Your a ---- valen. You make too many fukkn changes to determine wtf is goig on. Make one change. Datalog like a motherfullr.
U work in texh. Uou shoul know this. Jay reminded me of this after he sexed my ride.
U work in texh. Uou shoul know this. Jay reminded me of this after he sexed my ride.
#46
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Okay, new datalog is here.
Faefae, just for you, the only thing that has changed is the plugs. That's it. It fixes the idle headache, but the NGK's suck *** under acceleration compared to the Autolite's. Seriously, you can tell the difference between them under accel big time.
P.S. This new log is the Autolites, old log is the NGK BRK7E's.
(Edit) Added a new log just for you Faefae of it at absolutely maximum richness - idling at ~10AFR, and the absolute limit before it won't run. Nothing has changed from the previous Autolite log except it being rich as fuuuuuuuuuck
Faefae, just for you, the only thing that has changed is the plugs. That's it. It fixes the idle headache, but the NGK's suck *** under acceleration compared to the Autolite's. Seriously, you can tell the difference between them under accel big time.
P.S. This new log is the Autolites, old log is the NGK BRK7E's.
(Edit) Added a new log just for you Faefae of it at absolutely maximum richness - idling at ~10AFR, and the absolute limit before it won't run. Nothing has changed from the previous Autolite log except it being rich as fuuuuuuuuuck
#47
Well, superdve, unfortunately I swapped back to the old set of BKR6E's. Then I swapped to a new set of BKR7E's...Ran damn near perfectly on both. They don't have nearly the...smoothness, the much better feel of the new plugs on acceleration, but they run damn near perfectly anywhere else. The new plugs you recommended have all sorts of hesitation or misfires if not under acceleration, but I'll be damned if they don't feel amazing under acceleration.
Following is the datalog of the new set of BRK7E's. They are running rich as hell because the tune is for the new plugs Superdve recommended, however.
Working on a log of the plugs Superdve recommended, and also to make entirely certain I didn't change something in all the switching of plugs/etc. I did.
Following is the datalog of the new set of BRK7E's. They are running rich as hell because the tune is for the new plugs Superdve recommended, however.
Working on a log of the plugs Superdve recommended, and also to make entirely certain I didn't change something in all the switching of plugs/etc. I did.
The car SHOULD have little issue idling at lambda 1.0, (14.12 ish on E10), and I'd think that you need to square up the VE table after verifying any of the basics you might have overlooked. Like fae says 1 change, 1 test, anything else will skew you over!
#48
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I don't have the problems with the NGK's, could it be due to a particular design of the plugs as I noted they were meant for ATVs or something similar?
#50
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The only goddamn change I'm making is spark plugs Faefae, except for the one time where I kept richening it like you wanted, and when Dave mentioned 14.12 - and I'm still using the same goddamn Autolite plugs in all tests from the first Autolite plug log with no changes other than the fuel table FFS.
(Edit just for drunk Faefae)
I'm making one change at a time.
EITHER I change spark plugs and test
OR I change the fuel VE and test
AND that is ALL I am doing. One change at a time broski.
(Edit just for drunk Faefae)
I'm making one change at a time.
EITHER I change spark plugs and test
OR I change the fuel VE and test
AND that is ALL I am doing. One change at a time broski.
#51
Put the NGKs back in as they idle better and work the ve table. The AFX is good but make sure it has been calibrated in free air recently. If you can't get good idle check compression and I'd do a leak down. Those 3922s are too cold right right now!
Reason why I suggest lambda 1.0 is you should calibrate ve ttables to hit a desired 1.0 with no correction then adjust afr tables for required ratios after.
Reason why I suggest lambda 1.0 is you should calibrate ve ttables to hit a desired 1.0 with no correction then adjust afr tables for required ratios after.
#55
why so far from the turbo?
I have mine like 8 inches right off the turbine exit.
with a sensor that far away readings will be delayed even more from exit of engine to sensor reading.
hmm NGK AFX, bosch sensor? the exact bosch sensor for it or did you get one people mention from the parts store?
I've used those units with the bosch sensor and seen it at idle not read correctly.
AFX was at 13.x while the narrowband was at stoich and the SLC DIY one was hovering around 14.5 to 15.1 area
I have mine like 8 inches right off the turbine exit.
with a sensor that far away readings will be delayed even more from exit of engine to sensor reading.
hmm NGK AFX, bosch sensor? the exact bosch sensor for it or did you get one people mention from the parts store?
I've used those units with the bosch sensor and seen it at idle not read correctly.
AFX was at 13.x while the narrowband was at stoich and the SLC DIY one was hovering around 14.5 to 15.1 area
#56
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You have a wideband sensor, 6" off the turbo exit Tech?
Most widebands recommend 18" minimum to prevent sensor damage and/or correct sensor readings FYI. I run 24" simply because it's the easiest spot to put it.
Most widebands recommend 18" minimum to prevent sensor damage and/or correct sensor readings FYI. I run 24" simply because it's the easiest spot to put it.
#57
yeah around 6 to 8 inches from where the downpipe and turbine exit meet.
read above last post about my dealings with the ngk afx and bosch sensor. I have no experience with the ngk afx and ntk sensor, though I've heard its way more accurate.
Your tune on the first page is it with the 550cc injectors or 650cc injectors?
read above last post about my dealings with the ngk afx and bosch sensor. I have no experience with the ngk afx and ntk sensor, though I've heard its way more accurate.
Your tune on the first page is it with the 550cc injectors or 650cc injectors?
#59
checked the dead time and what I found is off from what you have in your tune.
A proper dead time will make tuning idle nicer and will keep the injector output at various voltages much more stable in terms of output.
8volt 2.55ms = 2550us
10volt 1.70ms = 1700us
12volt 1.20ms = 1200us
14volt 0.92ms = 920us
16volt 0.75ms = 750us
FIC 650cc ev14 dead times that I found
since ms2 only has 13.2v gonna have to wing it unless there is some softare or aloghtrim to use to figure it out.
I'd start at 1ms instead of 1.2ms
Yes you will have to retune idle area atleast.
A proper dead time will make tuning idle nicer and will keep the injector output at various voltages much more stable in terms of output.
8volt 2.55ms = 2550us
10volt 1.70ms = 1700us
12volt 1.20ms = 1200us
14volt 0.92ms = 920us
16volt 0.75ms = 750us
FIC 650cc ev14 dead times that I found
since ms2 only has 13.2v gonna have to wing it unless there is some softare or aloghtrim to use to figure it out.
I'd start at 1ms instead of 1.2ms
Yes you will have to retune idle area atleast.
#60
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checked the dead time and what I found is off from what you have in your tune.
A proper dead time will make tuning idle nicer and will keep the injector output at various voltages much more stable in terms of output.
8volt 2.55ms = 2550us
10volt 1.70ms = 1700us
12volt 1.20ms = 1200us
14volt 0.92ms = 920us
16volt 0.75ms = 750us
FIC 650cc ev14 dead times that I found
since ms2 only has 13.2v gonna have to wing it unless there is some softare or aloghtrim to use to figure it out.
I'd start at 1ms instead of 1.2ms
Yes you will have to retune idle area atleast.
A proper dead time will make tuning idle nicer and will keep the injector output at various voltages much more stable in terms of output.
8volt 2.55ms = 2550us
10volt 1.70ms = 1700us
12volt 1.20ms = 1200us
14volt 0.92ms = 920us
16volt 0.75ms = 750us
FIC 650cc ev14 dead times that I found
since ms2 only has 13.2v gonna have to wing it unless there is some softare or aloghtrim to use to figure it out.
I'd start at 1ms instead of 1.2ms
Yes you will have to retune idle area atleast.