Oh, I'm with ya. When you wrote "over" the manifold I read that like over the top of the mani. You mean outside of the mani. Yeah, I get that. But none of it lined up right when I put the mani on the head.

I'll figure something out. Gotta also install the injectors, remove the BEGi FMU, change the oil, flush the radiator, install the AIT sensor bung, devise a new intake, rework my hot side charge pipes to clear the a/c pulley better, do the 1.8 brake swap, ship parts from the other car, work, eat, sleep, drink, etc etc etc...

:rofl: yeah listen to older guy. I am glad you finally have a cool engine management solution. Besides it is the eating and sleeping that is holding you back dude. ;)

So Ben, where are you planning on mounting the knock sensor? or have you already and care to share a pic?

I just ordered my Knocksense from the link you provided as well as the MOSFET to do the EBC mod.

I recommend mounting the knock sensor near or at the FM stock location at the motor mount boss. Most recommendations are below crank centerline and away from the font of the engine (pulleys/bearing noise). I've hand mine mounted in four different locations and the noise was definitely worst at the front and top part of the engine. It's now in a motor mount boss and provides good feedback.

mounted mine in the spot recommended by FM, with copious amounts of JBweld...

http://www.asbi52.dsl.pipex.com/supe...r/DSC01600.jpg

Yeah, it's the same Bosch sensor that FM sells. No reason not to bolt it into the motor mount.

No, I have NOT installed it yet. One thing at a time.

they mention a "special" bolt...whatcha planing on using? trying to get things in order myself.

Day 2
 

Day 2

Today I removed the fuel band aid (BEGi FMU), installed 440 cc/min RC Eng injectors, and removed the AFM.

AFM removal is as easy as described in the instructions.

step 1: remove AFM
step 2: install AIT bung/sensor near throttle body or in intake mani
step 3: run 2 wires to the AFM harness
step 4: open megatune, select "no afm"
step 5: turn key and drive

The car runs better today than it did yesterday. And I didn't have Jerry to help me today!

No, nothing special. Easiest thing looks like a stud and 2 nuts. Look at a pic of the FM mount and read their installation instructions. Nothing to it.

Anything special to installing the RC 440s? I think that's my next step. Did you just change req fuel, or did you have to re-tune?

-Mike

I'm not tuned at all. Just lowered req fuel and drove off. Car drives fine, not perfect, but certainly well enough, especially considering it is completely untuned.

Full tuning on load dyno is coming.

this look right to you?

https://www.miataturbo.net/braineack...nockwiring.jpg

Yes. The CLT wire isn't necessary.

I take that back. I assume that the CLT is just 0-5v, w voltage increasing with knock. I'll use it to trigger a relay and power the MIL wire at the ECU. That will light the CEL w/ knock events, just like the Hydra.

Ben

I'm just going to use it to log the events. Although, that's an interesting idea as well...

MegaLogViewer already will log knock. The CLT is really for a 3rd party logger *

*from my limited experience

Excellent.

mmmm....I'll read up on it some more, but from the KnocksenseMS instructions, it says wire it into the MS CLT so when datalogging events the CLT will make a sharp downward spike...but when I look at MLV there is a datapoint for knock, so just pin 5 out should suffice :confused:

....however, I already have an LED on my steering column from a previous "alarm" when we picked up the car....so I'll wire that LED so it'll flash when knock is detected, without anything special needed in my part.

Oh, an observation from yesterday I forgot to mention:
My 60 mph cruise EGT reads ~100-150 F less now than when on the stock ecu. AFRs in the 14-15 range.

So...the stock ECU runs a bit leaner in cruise, perhaps.