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Old 05-14-2007, 04:16 PM   #1
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Talking I'm squirting

I drove over to DIYAutotune this morning. Had a coolant hard line pop loose en route, and rolled in overheating. Jerry helped me fix the hose and refill the radiator, then we got the MS going. Once we removed my ignition timing piggyback, it was as simple as plug the MS in, start the car, and adjust timing. DIYAutotune MSPNP is in and working.
Jerry did a little bit of road tuning with me. It's not perfect, but certainly drivable until we get a real tuning session in. Fingers crossed for time at the load dyno this week, so we can see results!

Observations for the day:
* The MS doesn't like a timing piggyback intercepting the CAS signal.
* The MS hooked up and ran the car immediately, just like advertised.
* Intake temps from the stock greddy aircleaner position are HOT. Let's just say I'd give y8s a run for his money on AIT.
* Launch control should be triggered by a switch, not the clutch

Last edited by Ben; 05-14-2007 at 05:00 PM.
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Old 05-14-2007, 04:22 PM   #2
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going to tune the spark while you're on a load dyno? I'm considering doing that in a few weeks.
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Old 05-14-2007, 04:25 PM   #3
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Congrats. Log your progress. It will be good for every to see what effect your changes have on all the parameters. Ya know you can use a socket on those hose clamps instead of the screwdriver on your leather man. :gay:
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Old 05-14-2007, 04:27 PM   #4
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8mm
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Old 05-14-2007, 04:29 PM   #5
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Or on some of the smaller clamps, I've found a 1/4" works too. Depends on who made the clamps..... <G>

Dave,
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Old 05-14-2007, 04:35 PM   #6
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It wasn't a clamp that came loose.

The hard pipe that runs rearward to the heater core (marked in red) seperated from its fitting on the block (marked in blue). Is that what's called the mixing manifold? The hard pipe moved back a few MM, we just shoved it back forward so it could seat itself again. But I doubt that it's permanately secured.
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I'm squirting-pipes.jpg  

Last edited by Ben; 05-14-2007 at 04:54 PM. Reason: i caynt spull fir nuttin
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Old 05-14-2007, 04:46 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m2cupcar View Post
Log your progress. It will be good for every to see what effect your changes have on all the parameters.
I plan to keep everyone apprised of my progress, which looks like it will move along quickly. I need to swap in the 440 injectors and install the AIT sensor so I can remove the AFM.


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going to tune the spark while you're on a load dyno? I'm considering doing that in a few weeks.
Yes. A spot may have opened up that I can sneak in and use this week. It's going to be a real tuning session with a professional tuner.
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Old 05-14-2007, 04:51 PM   #8
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drinking and wrenching
Curious to see how different the MS maps are from car to car given Brain vs. Al. Dialing in fuel is easy compared to spark... especially street tuning.
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Old 05-14-2007, 04:52 PM   #9
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is it not bolted onto the manifold studs?
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Old 05-14-2007, 04:54 PM   #10
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No, the bracket didn't line up after going greddy. It was fine for 8K miles before today.

My fuel map is bound to be extremely different than others, as I elected the MAPDADDY 4 bar w/ baro correction sensor. The fuel maps should scale, but may not. As far as timing goes, I have Jerry's base NA map and y8s's hydra map to start from, we'll see where it goes.
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Old 05-14-2007, 05:32 PM   #11
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Quote:
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No, the bracket didn't line up after going greddy. It was fine for 8K miles before today.
You have to modify it to fit. Somewhere on 1 5 p s i . com there is a greddy install that shows what needs to be done. Basically just grind it down until it fits between the runners. Easy easy.
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Old 05-14-2007, 05:38 PM   #12
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You have to modify it to fit. Somewhere on 1 5 p s i . com there is a greddy install that shows what needs to be done. Basically just grind it down until it fits between the runners. Easy easy.
****. Well I don't want to take the mani off again. I'll figure something out.
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Old 05-14-2007, 05:48 PM   #13
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Quote:
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****. Well I don't want to take the mani off again. I'll figure something out.
I've had mine off a couple of times now and I can get it off and back on in about 2 hours. I have fat stubby fingers, and Iam a Canadian
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Old 05-14-2007, 05:50 PM   #14
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Quote:
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****. Well I don't want to take the mani off again. I'll figure something out.

just gotta cut/grind the corners off it to a point.
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Old 05-14-2007, 05:51 PM   #15
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You need remove only one bolt on the manifold. You don't want it under the manifold.
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Old 05-14-2007, 05:54 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by olderguy View Post
You need remove only one bolt on the manifold. You don't want it under the manifold.
Please explain.
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Old 05-14-2007, 06:05 PM   #17
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Pretty tough to get in there with anything that'll trim the bracket though. I can barely get a wrench in there with the manifold installed.
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Old 05-14-2007, 06:08 PM   #18
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yeah that's what I was thinking. I have too many other things to get done in the next few days/weeks. Something with worm clamps and safety wire is going to have to work, at least for now.
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Old 05-14-2007, 06:15 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ben View Post
yeah that's what I was thinking. I have too many other things to get done in the next few days/weeks. Something with worm clamps and safety wire is going to have to work, at least for now.
Safety Wire = $15/lb
Worm Clamps = $0.99/ea
Evacuating all the coolant in your engine while on the dyno = priceless



I'm sure you'll be fine.
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Old 05-14-2007, 06:18 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ben View Post
Please explain.
The bracket goes under the nut, on top of the manifold. Others that have put it under the manifold(with the gasket) shall remain nameless.
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