Integrating Megasquirt into stock ECU case
11-22-2007, 04:59 PM
#21
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First of all, an emanage is illegal because it is a piggyback. Secondly, its more money than i want to spend. Plus, I've been wanting to do this megasquirt thing for a long time.
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11-22-2007, 05:07 PM
#22
Huh?
Sounds EXACTLY like what an emange blue (or ultimate, or the new AEM piggy) does. How is it illegal?
EMB is going to be cheaper than a MS, even if you build it yourself. I'm sure there are a number of people out there who would like to unload the EMB.
If you want to do the MS for the sake of doing it fine, but you don't NEED it for STS2 .... there are other ways.
Electronic components may be installed in-line between an engine’s sensors and ECU. These components may alter the signal coming from the sensor in order to affect the ECU’s operation of engine management system. Example: fuel controllers that modify the signal coming from an airflow sensor.
EMB is going to be cheaper than a MS, even if you build it yourself. I'm sure there are a number of people out there who would like to unload the EMB.
If you want to do the MS for the sake of doing it fine, but you don't NEED it for STS2 .... there are other ways.
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11-23-2007, 12:37 AM
#25
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Exactly. I hope Andy Hollis has enough sway over the SEB to make some changes to the rules, to permit removal of the AFM.
Right now the plan is to buy an MSI - v3.0 kit, do all the integration, and do the initial tuning with speed-density.
After the final map is obtained this way, the idea is to switch to alpha-N. Its going to involve a lot of work for sure.
Right now the plan is to buy an MSI - v3.0 kit, do all the integration, and do the initial tuning with speed-density.
After the final map is obtained this way, the idea is to switch to alpha-N. Its going to involve a lot of work for sure.
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11-23-2007, 08:12 AM
#26
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If you are required to retain the stock sensors, your stock TPS will not be very useful for alpha-N at all. It only signals idle and WOT, and does not signal anything in between. Given the rules, it looks as if you'd need to use the MAF mods to the Megasquirt.
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11-23-2007, 10:59 AM
#27
I got the impression that Hollis was for the restrictions. The problems is the "spirit of the class", being a street legal car. There are some questions about ST cars having to pass OBDII (if they are OBDII) scans and Tail Pipe tests. Fucked up, really. If they are really trying to give the casual Autocrosser a place to play, they aren't doing so with the typical car enthusiast in mind.
I'd honestly rather be kicked in the nuts than race in STS/2. For the cost of RE-01's and people shaving them you might as well run CSP. Our region just switched to SCCA rules for the comming season, so I don't have my head around all the rules yet.
Jay
I'd honestly rather be kicked in the nuts than race in STS/2. For the cost of RE-01's and people shaving them you might as well run CSP. Our region just switched to SCCA rules for the comming season, so I don't have my head around all the rules yet.
Jay
Exactly. I hope Andy Hollis has enough sway over the SEB to make some changes to the rules, to permit removal of the AFM.
Right now the plan is to buy an MSI - v3.0 kit, do all the integration, and do the initial tuning with speed-density.
After the final map is obtained this way, the idea is to switch to alpha-N. Its going to involve a lot of work for sure.
Right now the plan is to buy an MSI - v3.0 kit, do all the integration, and do the initial tuning with speed-density.
After the final map is obtained this way, the idea is to switch to alpha-N. Its going to involve a lot of work for sure.
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11-23-2007, 11:42 AM
#28
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I played with this and I believe it can be done pretty easy. All you need to do is get a OEM ECU and literly saw the board off just before the connector. Then install the surface mount board MS-
I v3.57 inside the OEM ECU Case without the DB9 or DB-37. Jump the appropriate wires to the pins on the connector and use two unused wires for RX/TX to the megasquirt. Done
I v3.57 inside the OEM ECU Case without the DB9 or DB-37. Jump the appropriate wires to the pins on the connector and use two unused wires for RX/TX to the megasquirt. Done
Last edited by kingofl337; 11-24-2007 at 10:53 AM.
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01-21-2008, 09:53 PM
#29
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I re-started work on this a couple of days ago and now I'm stuck.
Things I've done so far:
- 26+22 pin yellow connector de-soldered from the stock board.
- Mounting position for MS v3.0 board finalized. The only way to do it is to mount it with the DB37 at right angles to the stock connector location (see pic below).
- Modified the housing to fit the board. One of the two tabs on the side had to be cut off to accomodate DB37 side of the board, and the other had to be clearanced a little.
- Made aluminum sheet brackets to hold the connector and the board in place.
The tough part for me is to figure out how to connect the wires coming from the DB37 to the stock connector. Ideally I'd do something like this:
That's a BMW housing. But the problem is, there's not enough headroom in the Miata housing to do that. Was on Digikey website all evening trying in vain to find a slim profile DB37 header. I'd either have to solder wires directly into the PCB holes (not very elegant, IMO) or find some kind of pins into which I can crimp or solder wires.
Can you guys give me some suggestions? Some technical keywords for the pins or part numbers would be great and save me a lot of headaches.
Things I've done so far:
- 26+22 pin yellow connector de-soldered from the stock board.
- Mounting position for MS v3.0 board finalized. The only way to do it is to mount it with the DB37 at right angles to the stock connector location (see pic below).
- Modified the housing to fit the board. One of the two tabs on the side had to be cut off to accomodate DB37 side of the board, and the other had to be clearanced a little.
- Made aluminum sheet brackets to hold the connector and the board in place.
The tough part for me is to figure out how to connect the wires coming from the DB37 to the stock connector. Ideally I'd do something like this:
That's a BMW housing. But the problem is, there's not enough headroom in the Miata housing to do that. Was on Digikey website all evening trying in vain to find a slim profile DB37 header. I'd either have to solder wires directly into the PCB holes (not very elegant, IMO) or find some kind of pins into which I can crimp or solder wires.
Can you guys give me some suggestions? Some technical keywords for the pins or part numbers would be great and save me a lot of headaches.
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01-21-2008, 10:19 PM
#30
Just solder wires onto he mainboard like you stated, and have a db37 male and female connector in the middle somewhere you can tuck to the side btw the board and the ecu connector. That way you can remove the board in the future.
Being someone that runs full stand alone, this actually sounds pretty cool. I've never even though about doing that. Then I could just mount the MS in the stock location.
Being someone that runs full stand alone, this actually sounds pretty cool. I've never even though about doing that. Then I could just mount the MS in the stock location.
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01-21-2008, 11:21 PM
#34
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Very compact, yes and very little to go wrong. But will those tiny wires take the current?
Time for another question: what gage of wires would be optimal. I understand there are thinner gages for all the sensor inputs and thicker for injectors and ignitors.
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01-22-2008, 11:52 AM
#37
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http://rocky.digikey.com/scripts/Pro...7&M=1-208778-0
The left side of that pin is soldered onto the PCB and wire is inserted into the right side?
To give an idea of how tight it is in there:
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01-22-2008, 11:59 AM
#38
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no connector. either taking the output wires directly into the board, or soldering little contacts into it first.
no reason for a db37 connector if it's going straight to the ecu.
no reason for a db37 connector if it's going straight to the ecu.
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01-23-2008, 07:58 PM
#39
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Progress is very slow because I'm writing my thesis. Have to fight to keep my eyes open with just 4 hours of sleep everyday. Anyway, here's what I have right now:
The board is held by just two brackets at the back. Don't know if vibration will have an effect on that.
What size wires should I get? 16 SWG? 18 SWG?
This sounds stupid, but can someone please provide me with a part number for the contacts. Or atleast what exactly its called so I can order it.
The board is held by just two brackets at the back. Don't know if vibration will have an effect on that.
What size wires should I get? 16 SWG? 18 SWG?
This sounds stupid, but can someone please provide me with a part number for the contacts. Or atleast what exactly its called so I can order it.
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