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Old 02-14-2014, 02:04 PM   #21
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Well it's official I am a plonker. The BOV spinning around isn't spinning around it's unscrewing. How do I know this ? Because I kept turning it one direction and it threw its contents across the garage spring and all. Dooooh
So tighten that all back up, refit all the pipes and hopefully problem solved. On a plus this will be the cheapest 5psi increase at 4500rpm I'll ever get...lol
Thanks for all your help guys
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Old 02-14-2014, 02:19 PM   #22
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Yeah, with how you hooked up the boost tester its going to leak out of the bov. You need to pressurize the nipple on the bov with the tester, either by just leaving the ic piping connected to the throttle body or by running the bov hose to a barb on your tb side plug.
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Old 02-14-2014, 02:30 PM   #23
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I've fastened the inlet manifold back pipe back on for the test and am just using the one bung with the valve now and the BOV is a recirculating one so it puts the air back in after the bung. It really is just leaking out the threads between the two barrels but I'll do another leak test once I put it all back together.
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Old 02-15-2014, 02:02 PM   #24
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Can someone help clarify: if from a standing and floor it 100% throttle should I be hitting target boost at around 4000rpm if there are no leaks, turbo is correctly sized and my EBC is functioning correctly?
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Old 02-15-2014, 02:13 PM   #25
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My 1.6 with a slightly small sr20 turbo hits full boost of 11psi in the mid 3000s. I'd expect low 3000s if it's a 1.8 with EBC.

I'd hook up the leak tester and keep looking.
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Old 02-15-2014, 02:29 PM   #26
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Hmmm thought you might say that, thought I had tested but maybe it didn't push the pressure high enough. Back to the leak test then 👍
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Old 02-15-2014, 03:04 PM   #27
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Are you pulling your boost source from the correct place for your gauge? If you're getting goofy boost readings I would start there.
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Old 02-15-2014, 05:43 PM   #28
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I'm taking it from the inlet mani to the megasquirt.

http://i1063.photobucket.com/albums/...0B95B788AB.jpg

http://i1063.photobucket.com/albums/...3C77485546.jpg

Found 3 leaks now, lessons still being learnt, when you buy a used turbo kit fit new clamps.....

Did a final leak at 10psi

http://youtu.be/Ly_67xxVJ5I


Just need to go out and log it again

Last edited by HeresJohnny; 02-17-2014 at 02:50 AM.
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Old 02-16-2014, 01:51 PM   #29
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Well I've logged it again and I'm still at 6psi at 4000 rpm from a standing start. Puzzled as I did have several leaks I've stopped. I've done a leak test up to 12psi and it does hold what I think is reasonably well. It drops to 8psi after about 60 seconds, there is air going somewhere but it sounds like it moving around the inlet manifold.
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Old 02-16-2014, 02:08 PM   #30
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And these are 3rd gear pulls? 4th would be better but we realize 1500-7000rpm in 4th gear is a little illegal.

1st and second happen so fast your turbo won't have time to build boost.

Have you tried running just waste gate pressure? Or a simple mbc?
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Old 02-16-2014, 02:18 PM   #31
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Now then I need to understand that better, I may be aiming for the impossible then.
I need to put a log on here for you to look at I think. Is it easy to put a file in the forum?
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Old 02-16-2014, 02:43 PM   #32
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Yes, hit "post reply" instead of the quick reply message, and you'll get a lot more options. Then click "manage attachments" and add your .msl file.
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Old 02-16-2014, 03:25 PM   #33
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Logs from pre leak and post leak attached
Attached Files
File Type: msl pre leak.msl (30.1 KB, 47 views)
File Type: msl post leak.msl (76.4 KB, 44 views)
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Old 02-17-2014, 02:54 AM   #34
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Still on with the leak testing and I'm hoping you can clear up the how to do it right question. I'm just feeding 12psi of air in through the turbo outlet pipe and I've definitely no leaks up to the manifold intake after fixing 3. What I'm not sure about is what happens after that. Think I need an internal combustion engine lesson!!
Seems like the air filled up the space after that then leaked from the manifold breather pipe, then it stopped. The bung into the rocker cover doesn't seem really air sealed anyway?? Is that because air shouldn't be reaching there? I'm thinking all I need to test is before the TB.
The outcome is it loses the pressure but takes about 60seconds but there's no obvious hissing sound?
Done more logs above but there's no change as in I'm not hitting max boost at 3000 to 4000 rpm range.
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Old 02-18-2014, 09:23 AM   #35
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Smile Getting some results

Finally getting some results, got my EBC table working and what a difference already. The EBC sounds like a jack hammer in the cab ! not sure what that's all about..... but the grin is back
Attached Files
File Type: msl EBC alterered EBC map.msl (95.4 KB, 40 views)
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Old 02-18-2014, 01:04 PM   #36
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If your EBC is "knocking" it is because your settings are wrong. It's been awhile but try a different frequency I think... Which EBC controller are you using?
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Old 02-19-2014, 04:20 PM   #37
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I'm using one I bought from DIY Autotune, Im told it will be loud under operating conditions and I've got it operating at low RPMs and TP at the moment but even at 3000rpm it was really loud. I've moved it forward in the engine near the air filter and it much more bearable 👍
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Old 02-19-2014, 04:29 PM   #38
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Mine is silent... Well more silent than my engine. Just out of curiosity, where are you getting your wastegate signal line from?
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Old 02-19-2014, 05:21 PM   #39
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Arrow pointing almost to the wastgate feed.

The reply I got about the EBC from the retailer was:

It is normal for it to click when it is operating, however it does not need to be operating at all times. A value of zero duty in the duty table will kinda turn it off in areas where you do not need it to be operating.
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Old 02-19-2014, 05:28 PM   #40
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You want it pre throttle body. Like, right before that 90* elbow pictured.
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