Megasquirt Problem, No spark, no fuel, cant connect to pc, + more. Help please!! - Page 2 - Miata Turbo Forum - Boost cars, acquire cats.

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Old 02-22-2011, 05:48 PM   #21
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Standard optoisolator with pullup to 5V on both the crank and cam circuits. The unit has been tested fine on the stim. What worries me is that you are not hearing the fuel pump priming - the fuel pump relay has been tested as well.
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Old 02-22-2011, 06:34 PM   #22
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Any ideas on what it could be then. Tunerstudio keeps crashing when I crank now. Will try and get an actual serial port thing tomorrow (cant remember what its called, but looks like a camera card plugs in and gives an actual serial port hardware, rather than using a serial to usb). But no crank readings are being received by it as far as I can tell.

But still that doesnt solve the problem. Gonna try and plug the stock ecu back in. See if the problems are still there, or if it then primes and stuff. If it does then the cam sensor must be alright etc?

Really dont know what to do now?
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Old 02-22-2011, 06:45 PM   #23
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The stock ECU doesn NOT prime the pump before cranking, only DURING cranking.

There is a probability that your car is not an EU spec and has a different wire on the CAS - I can guide you to find this if need be, you need to have a multimeter to test it.

We must isolate the problem, but first you must be able to get a reliable datalog while cranking so that we know whats up. By the way, when you install the stock ECU, remember to replace the STSIGN fuse or the pump will not prime during cranking.

And please, remember to remove the fuse BEFORE reinstalling the MS!
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Old 02-22-2011, 08:39 PM   #24
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The stock ECU doesn NOT prime the pump before cranking, only DURING cranking.

There is a probability that your car is not an EU spec and has a different wire on the CAS - I can guide you to find this if need be, you need to have a multimeter to test it.

We must isolate the problem, but first you must be able to get a reliable datalog while cranking so that we know whats up. By the way, when you install the stock ECU, remember to replace the STSIGN fuse or the pump will not prime during cranking.

And please, remember to remove the fuse BEFORE reinstalling the MS!
So as said in pm, incase anyone else is reading or has this problem in the future, the car started on the standard ecu (removed the STSIGN after so I dont forget). So this means the CAS must be working. On the megastim all the ecu was working. So I'm guessing its maybe the communication between the two? Tuner after a quick look said that in his experience megasquirts mightened prime the pump unless they're receiving a CAS signal.

The route of this may be that the car is a jap eunos roadster. So that could be the difference, maybe a difference in loom? We'll go through tomorrow evening with the multimeter and try and figure it out anyway. Have to first try and sort a bad oil leak at the oil pump aswell though.....constant headaches with this ha!

Thanks very much for the help so far though!
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Old 02-23-2011, 04:20 AM   #25
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The route of this may be that the car is a jap eunos roadster. So that could be the difference, maybe a difference in loom?

Thanks very much for the help so far though!
Well that kinda narrows it down. All the ECUs I built for the EU are for EU-spec cars unless otherwise stated (ie I had a person from Norway that had a US-spec 99).

All EUDM-spec 1.6 NAs have the two CAS signal wires in pins 2F and 2G, where the USDM-spec (and possible the JDM-spec) cars have them in 2E and 2G.

I found out about this the hard way, when I tried to install an MSPNP9093 from DIYAutoTune, in a friend's EU-spec 92, and it wouldn't work at all...so I had to modify his harness to make it work. I removed the 2f pin&wire from the connector and moved it to 2E. Cranked it and it fired right up.

This is probably what you need to do as well.
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Old 02-23-2011, 07:48 AM   #26
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Well that kinda narrows it down. All the ECUs I built for the EU are for EU-spec cars unless otherwise stated (ie I had a person from Norway that had a US-spec 99).
It helps to make a table/list of the harness colors on the OEM ECU connector. It would not hurt to have all of them in a resources area (it might exists somewhere but I have not found it).

I made the fule pump relay mistake with the EU+Immo being different than the US sans immo for my 99. Now I also have JP 98 RS that probably have even more differences (but I have not bothered to find the ECU location yet).

The colors for the sensors are usually the same, but options may differ (second O2, purge valves etc), and sometimes functions are shifted around to make place (I guess).
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Old 02-23-2011, 08:06 AM   #27
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I made the fule pump relay mistake with the EU+Immo being different than the US sans immo for my 99. Now I also have JP 98 RS that probably have even more differences (but I have not bothered to find the ECU location yet).
Yup, that's pretty much the difference. If he hadn't told me, then his fuel pump would never work and it would have difficult to find out why.
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Old 02-23-2011, 12:03 PM   #28
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Well that kinda narrows it down. All the ECUs I built for the EU are for EU-spec cars unless otherwise stated (ie I had a person from Norway that had a US-spec 99).

All EUDM-spec 1.6 NAs have the two CAS signal wires in pins 2F and 2G, where the USDM-spec (and possible the JDM-spec) cars have them in 2E and 2G.

I found out about this the hard way, when I tried to install an MSPNP9093 from DIYAutoTune, in a friend's EU-spec 92, and it wouldn't work at all...so I had to modify his harness to make it work. I removed the 2f pin&wire from the connector and moved it to 2E. Cranked it and it fired right up.

This is probably what you need to do as well.
Right I'll go about switching them this evening. Going to get a Serial / RS232 2 Port PCMCIA Laptop Card now. I'm hoping this should end any communication or slowdown issues.

I also found this before:
http://www.miata.net/garage/ECU_Pin-Out.png
Is there any other differences in wiring that I should switch or look out for? Or is it just the CAS?
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Old 02-23-2011, 12:26 PM   #29
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Don't go switching them before verifying with a multimeter first! I'm not aware of any other changes.
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Old 02-23-2011, 01:18 PM   #30
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Rightio! Will get a proper look/info on how to do that when I'm out at the car. But I'm presuming just check for voltage from 2E?
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Old 02-23-2011, 01:39 PM   #31
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Nope, check with the Ohm meter that you have 0.1 to 1 ohms of resistance between 2E and one of the connector pins of the CAS. Same goes for 2G.
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Old 02-23-2011, 05:08 PM   #32
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Nope, check with the Ohm meter that you have 0.1 to 1 ohms of resistance between 2E and one of the connector pins of the CAS. Same goes for 2G.
Right, we will get to check this within the next hour anyway. Got the Express Card PCMCIA serial port aswell, so in theory there should be no problems with connection.
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Old 02-23-2011, 05:48 PM   #33
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So basically to break it down to dumbest terms. Connect a multimeter from 2e on the stock harness, and the other end to any connector pin at the actual CAS unit? And then the same with 2g?
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Old 02-23-2011, 05:51 PM   #34
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Not on the actual CAS unit, to the plug that connects to the CAS. One of those 4 pins should show continuinity with 2E, same goes for 2G.
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Old 02-23-2011, 05:52 PM   #35
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Yeh .4 and .5 ohms off 2e and 2g. So then just swap the pin coming from the megasquirt from 2f to 2g?
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Old 02-23-2011, 06:00 PM   #36
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Leave 2G as is, swap the pin from 2F to 2E.
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Old 02-23-2011, 06:21 PM   #37
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We swapped 2E to 2F on the standard loom. Still no difference? No RPM reading on tunerstudio. Does it matter which way they are around?
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Old 02-23-2011, 06:24 PM   #38
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Can you take a composite log?
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Old 02-23-2011, 06:29 PM   #39
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Can you take a composite log?
Yes what do you need from it. MAP is the only thing that moves. AFR working but just on full obviously.
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Old 02-23-2011, 06:34 PM   #40
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Go to the diagnostics tab, select composite log, click start and start cranking for a full 10 seconds. Post said log here.
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