4gordeev

Has anyone ever tried modding the gm open element iat sensor before? I've been trying to chase down my heatsoak issues when a friend pointed out that the iat sensor is sitting in a chunk of brass that is most likely heat soaking by itself. So I ordered myself a spare sensor, grabbed the dremel and 4min later voila, bare sensor ready to epoxy into a nylon fitting! The sensor is just swaged in the fitting; no glue. Easy and clean.



I have yet to do the gluing so no in car results. I will try to do some back to back logs to see if there is any difference but I fail to see how this could hurt.

rleete

iTrader: (21)

GM has been using these sensors for years, and many of the Megasquirted people here as well. I sincerely doubt the brass fitting is a major contributor.

4gordeev

Worst case, I'm out $25.

rleete

iTrader: (21)

Spare parts.

18psi

iTrader: (76)

I'd be concerned with it falling apart/out if/when the epoxy broke down or melted.

We haven't really had IAT soak issues since ms3 came out and since most of us plumb it into the fmic end tank or shortly after, which eliminates heat soak.

4gordeev

Doube post

4gordeev

I'm not too worried about it going into the engine. The sensor has a flange which will mechanically prevent it from going in. If anything it will fall out. Plus jbweld is rated for a sustained 500f. If for some reason the sensor is seeing a sustained 500f, I have bigger problems...

My sensor is mounted just after the cold side exit of the ic. I'm running a diypnp and am seeing heatsoak and having hot restart problems even with it there...

4gordeev

So lowes only had PVC fittings, no nylon. Should work. I have the benifit of having a lathe but this could easily have been done with just a drill. Super snug fit, so much so that I might just use rtv.

rleete

iTrader: (21)

What is the fitting for? As in, what does Lowe's call it?

4gordeev

It's a push connect fitting.

18psi

iTrader: (76)

You're logging a consistent significant increase in IAT in the logs?
Not lean re-starts, but a massive jump in IAT? Like 10-20F and more?
Cause that's pretty interesting

4gordeev

No, nothing like that. Im having issues with my iats going way too high after hard pulls. I know the root of the problem (boost leak/turbo working too hard) but what confuses me is how long the iats take to come back down to normal. Say during a pull my iats will go from 90 to 140, after the pull the reading will take 15-20sec to come back down to normal, in fact on the graph the down slope looks almost identical to the up slope during the pull. Honestly im not sure if this is normal as this is my first turbo vehicle, but Id think that as soon as you get off boost the temp of the air leaving the turbo should come down to normal pretty quick. I am also getting bad lean restart issues during the hot humid days.

18psi

iTrader: (76)

temps aren't going to just plummet as soon as you let off. you're still breathing a lot of really hot air and likely your intercooler is soaked too.

but good luck with this.

Savington

iTrader: (31)

The IATs rise because the intercooler is heat soaked. They stay high because the intercooler is heat soaked. This is a neat idea, but it won't solve the problem you're trying to solve.

4gordeev

So in the end the issue is hot, humid southern summers... that and pushing a 2560 past it's efficiency.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

sounds more like you're running your IC past its effectiveness.

rleete

iTrader: (21)

I said that in the second post. Apparently, no one reads my posts, or simply dismisses them out of hand.

I has a sad...

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

I dont read. and it was MS Paint!

4gordeev

Is it normal to overpower the standard 27x7x2.5 ebay intercooler with a 275 whp 2560r build?

I know that the cage on the sensor isn't nessessary, but the tc by itself is pretty fragile and looks like fod waiting to happen.