If he gets the dyno going on it would be great to have the SE dyno day there.
Do most steady state dyno's bolt directly to the hubs?

No-- the DynaPack is the only that I know of. Like anything they have their pluses/minuses but I really like them.

Dyno Dynamics is a steady state roller dyno, there also at the top of my list but I don't have the shop space.

DynaPacks are portable, don't take much shop space at all, and only require 120v AC and a water supply for cooling. They're use hydraulics for the brakes which don't consume much power to control, just a valve tightening down on the oil flow. Water to keep it cool. They're a bit more painful to put a car on than a roller dyno, but with practice and an organized shop it shouldn't take any longer. I've seen it done in under 5 minutes.

DD dynos are sweet, but take more space, use Eddy current brakes which are great but suck power down. They're one of the best but that's the drawbacks. There's one up in Calhoun, GA I've used once, nice equipment.

There are other brands of steady state roller dynos too-- I don't know of any other hub dynos

The dynapack dynos are the tits. The miata would need 2 pods, each with about the same footprint as a small roll around tool box. If I was big ballin', I'd own a pair and keep them in the garage. They're compact enough, and on wheels. How f'n cool woud that be?

Here's a pic of my car, "on the dyno"
https://www.miataturbo.net/vbgarage....etimage&id=506

how much are those>

Yep-- and at the end of the day you roll those suckers up against the wall out of your way and clear out your floorspace until they're needed again.

(Or do it the way that place does it, take it all apart and stick it in various different places so that I have to find the pieces and assemble it when I come in to tune a car)

New.... $80k+ for that one, it's a AWD model. $60k+ for the equivalent 2wd model

holly hell, didn't know they were that expensive. a mustang md-250 is 32,500 base + freight.

That's alot of megasquirt kits. Hope you're making more coin on the PNPs.

I mean thats only getting 1/10 of all the miatas made using MSPNP I think that is a good goal to shoot for.

I've got my eye on a nice used AWD model... still very pricey... but a bit more realistic....maybe...

If you get a dyno, I'll be seeing you for the tuning on my '99.
Just got the EBC mod and IAT sensor setup from you in the mail today. Thanks.

more problems on the mspnp
 

hey its me again, just wanted to say a thank you to paul for stopping by and giving a helping hand. so i sorted fixed the problem i was have with my mspnp. the car was not idling rite and after emails with jerry from diytune, i kinda got the car to hold an idle around 950 rpm. but the afr is still holding around the high 16's. the second problem is the car seems like it is miss firing. also is the fidle/spark on/off indicator suppose to flash from on to off constantly.

you have a programmable ecu, and a wideband, and you're running lean....
hmmm so what do you think your next step should be?


PS:
http://forum.pctweaks.de/images/smilies/rtfm3lj5.gif

No experince with MSPNP here, but what accomplishes bypass of the fuel cut switch on the AFM or MAF when it is removed(or not yet). Does he need to do something additional? Symptoms seem to mimic fuel cut at no air flow.

The MSPNP turns on the fuel pump any time it senses RPM.

We're using the FIDLE output to PWM your idle valve-- that means cut it on and off very quickly to control the valve, so yes, it's going to flash on and off.

The other problem you mentioned is one and the same. On batch injection these cars will misfire at idle at anything leaner than about 14:1, and really like to be at 13.3:1. You're missing because you're at 16:1. Tune it to 13.3:1 at idle.

Tuning time, something to consider I guess when getting the MSPNP. Seems like it is tough to dial it in without a fair amount of dyno time and some experience with the software.

yeah but replace MSPNP with any piggback or stand alone and its the same.

Not tough, just can't be an afterthought. The base map is so right on for a bone stock car it's ridiculous-- but anytime you put a standalone in a car and it's anything but the same car the base map was tuned on, some fine tuning is required. One quick read of the manual mentions this several times.

It's actually very easy to tune- and mostly tuned for you. If you read the manual and take the time to understand some base tuning concepts, you'll be fine. If you don't, you'll struggle. Wideband o2 is pretty much necessary, either your own or on a dyno.

This is a full standalone EMS here, not a piggyback. You have full control of every aspect of your engine management system. You have full control to tune your engine to perfection. You have full control to blow a rod through the block. You have full control. That should scare some people, and they should let others help them. That's why there is a tuning profession. Most people don't know how to properly tune a car on a dyno. Some 'tuners' don't either unfortunately. Beware of anyone who wants you to have a knock sensor they can 'bounce' it off of and then back off the timing a bit. That's bad news.

Most people should however be able to read a bit and understand how to adjust your idle AFRs based on the MSPNP manual and MS1 Extra manuals included with the product. They explain everything in plenty of detail. Once you've read all of that and understand it fairly well, ask a question or two. I'm out here every day, glad to answer questions.

I gotcha. Probably gonna stick with the AFPR with band-aids for a bit.

I see the advantages to the MS, but at the same time with more power comes more responsibility.