Update:
Since I have two engines, one that came with the car, and another I bought, I have an extra CAS, so I pulled and cleaned off the other CAS and hooked that up directly to the MS with the stim board attached so I could see if it would read from it while turning the wheel. Success, it does read from it correctly, so now I'm wondering why it won't read from the one in the car? Time to think what it maybe, wiring posibiily maybe bad connection, or another reason. Anyone know where I can get a cheap connector for the CAS from?

Thanks
Justin

I've read that some CAS that work fine with a stock ECU refuse to work with MS. Don't know if this is with an older style input circuit or not.

I have not read this. it works with optical or magnetic CASes.

I didn't mean some "types", I meant some sensors of either types. I've already had a CAS randomly die on me in my 2 months of Miata ownership, so I'm not fully convinced of their reliability. Some may just have weak signals when they are close to dying.

I did "repair" mine by replacing the Hall effect sensor inside with one from a SOHC Protege distributor, so I guess the electronics are actually failing.

I'll agree that MS is more sensitive with them, oem ecu probably has a lot of filtering and what.

Well an easy way to test is to hookup the in car sensor to the MS with the stim connected while the MS is connected to a pc and turn the engine around while logging to see any rpm output from the CAS, if the CAS shows correct output from connecting directly to it, than I know it must be somewhere in the wiring from the MS to the CAS, either my harness or cars wiring.

But the car works fine with the stock ECU. so I maybe going over my harness again.

Harness wiring, the cas wiring are\were off by one pin, so 24 was on 25 and 25 was on 26

thatll do it.

Hi all
So I got the CAS fixed correctly.
Now I got her to see rpms, and while cranking she allmost caught but didn't, sounded like she would. Anyone know cranking settings for a 1.6l?

Heres a log of my newest attempt

Appericate any help, gonna read though MS extra manuals.

this for a 1.6l with the mods I have done?
Just want to make sure

its the mspnp 9093 basemap

whats the difference beteween the with and without maf files

The calibration for the IAT sensor.

hmmm

so after updating my sensor info
flashing the firmware
and pulling my spark plugs 3 times to get the built up gas out of the cylinders

Nearly there, anyone seen MS inject abit of gas at startup to lock up the engine.

It nearly catches this last time after getting most of the stuff straighten out. Just not enough. Sorry I forgot to log the data, I'll do another round to try.

Not sure if its not getting enough spark or timing of the spark is off or injecting too much gas. Probably need a log to tell.

what diagram did you follow to wire the harness? if you followed mine, the tps connector must be unplugged...

I didn't even wire in tps and vref 5+ into the wiring harness I made, do I still need to unplug it?

You may have your spark wires out of sequence, try swappping the pairs of wires around on the coils (or swap your coil triggers).
That happened to me when I built my harness.

(Just a suggestion)

I have feeling its timing that is off. Will test later today

IIRC, we put a couple minor changes to the fuel table in the no-AFM version. Nothing big, though.

Can someone go over my log file and see what I should, I get her started but shes running around 300rpms off beat like my lawn mower.

Crank trigger wheel settings were incorrect. changed them to the ones mentioned on the diyautotune page of installing MS in a miata. I'm getting there.

Appericate any help.
Justin

ok so I can get it to 400 rpms steady with 62 trigger angle and +25 fixed angle, I just need to verify the engine and MS are in sync relating to ingition timing with a timing light correct?

Also only time I see it read out 14.7 nb 14 to 15s on the wideband.
Rest were way lean

Wait a minute I did that wrong, I should of addred more to the trigger angle and left the fixed angle at +10 instead?

Fixed angle is used only for initial hardware calibration. Afterwards, it should always be set to -10.

Hi all, ok I got my timing dialed in at 300rpms where it shows 10 degrees at the crank and 10 btdc on megatune. though my afr's show around low 12.x rnage, so I know there is probably too much gas being injected but I can't seem to lean it out. Anyone have a clue? Uploaded my MSQ, let me know if you find anything strange, I'll upload a datalog in a minute as well

log of data

I just noticed in the datalog it shows cranking for most of the time its around 300rpms~
Does the ECU still think I'm cranking the key? Because I'm not, its running steadly like that by itself.

Yes. The MS bases its cranking determination purely on RPM, as it does not have a signal input from the starter. You can see this indication in the log, and also in one of the boxes at the bottom of the TunerStudio dashboard.

It's time to start working on your idle settings. They're way out of whack. You can stick with Warmup-based for now (eventually you'll want to go closed loop) but for starters, here's what your idle parameters look like:

http://img02.imagefra.me/img/img02/8...vm_2eeda83.gif

Bump CrankingDC up to about 40. Also, you have the upper and lower idle duties backwards. As a baseline, set "Idle duty at lower temp" to 25, and "Idle duty at lower temp" to maybe 20. The way these work is that when the temp is below 129°, it uses the "lower" value, above 180° the upper, and interpolates between. You'll need to do some tweaking I'm sure, but this will get you idling. Then you can start doing coarse VE table correction to get your AFRs roughed in.

I did the alterations to the idle settings, and still the same, running around 300rpms

Just a quick background info the engine was swapped into this car, runs fine on stock ecu, fine as the idle with the pervious tb was like 750rpms and sometimes it would dog down alot and come back up, well I took my former engines TB and clean it out and threw it on with a new gasket. Now it won't die down under 750rpms, but it idles high sometimes, 1000 rpms or around 800 rpms.

I thought it was the IAC was bad, but I poped off the IAC connector while my car was running on stock ecu and the idle jump from 750 to 1000rpms, so I think its working fine.

I'm gonna read though the MSextra manuals, I was able to get past all my other problems, I will get this installed and working!:vash:

I got my timing set where when it reads 10 degrees its at 10 degrees on the crank. So thats dialed in.


The stock ecu works fine, runs fine.:vash:

Joe I appericate the info though. If it still thinks its cranking does that mean it not using fuel\spark VE map info? So I need to fix the idle

This is correct. If the RPM is below the cranking threshold, then both fuel PW and ignition advance will be static as per the cranking settings.

Get that shit fixed. :D

do you know if I can alter where it thinks cranking threshold is at off hand, I'm gonna check around.

I'm done fidiling for today, will try some tomorrow, time to bone up on my MSextra info.

Just for info I tried adjusting the idle screw with no effect to the 250-300rpm crank idle.

EDIT found cranking rpm, will change and test tomorrow.

Anyone with a 1.6l running MS show me what their cranking rpm is set at?
Thanks

I just noticed DutyCycle 2 is double DutyCycle 1 across the board,
if 1 is 4, 2 is 8, is this correct? or should the values be the same?

alright this is what I got, made it so that I get AFR read out around 700 to 1000 rpms
Rev smoother here, no ideal yet, but I don't care, I rather be able to fix my maps to get it to rev correctly.

Here is my msq and log of some data

Trying to take over, say 1200 rpms will result in a back fire, must be an area where the tune isn't near the other.

ANy thoughts appericated.

http://a.imageshack.us/img718/4374/v...2815h42m48.png

Uploaded with ImageShack.us


=


WRONGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGG

After loading up diy autotune mspnp maps and thinking this shit should be good to go for 2 days, I finally decided to go back and relook over my crap

Shit was wired wrong, time to fix and redo.

Fuck the rest of the tune related logs, this must of been the reason why, it should been idling by now.

Yep IAC mod was wrong, fixed, now the MS talks to the IAC correctly as I saw it holding rpms at 600 while first start.

ok dokey Finally got 650rpm idle. I would like to get thoughts about my settings

Currently I am using reg_fuel at 19 and increased my ve bin area around 800rpms\50kpa to 97

afr's bounce around now still getting some pops from the exhaust, not sure why thats happening but anyways it seemed to me as you increase the ve bin it got better at idle, better as in smoother running but some point it pops than you go up tad more and it stops.

Here is the current tune and a datalog of letting idle and trying to rev it upwards at the end of the log.

Any thoughts? I"m still going though the stuff but now this is great, I have an idle finally, even though it still only at 650rpm