clarkma5

2x stock VW 1.8Ts I've owned, and I have driven plenty of other turbo cars, stock and tuned. Look, in order for us to have this conversation we'd have to pretend I was born yesterday. I have plenty of ignorance about the details of what I'm doing to my Miata but I've driven enough cars and know my preferences around how motors deliver power and the experience I want to have from this vehicle to know that I am not going to a turbo. I am not trying to say turbos are bad or can't have lag minimized or aren't going to make good power or ANYTHING like that. It is just not in keeping with my personal mission for the car, and that's one of those things that's baked into why I am doing this project so it's really not on the table. So much of what I'm doing is open to achieving my desired aims, but I'm already aiming on not doing a turbo.

I gotcha 100%; I am not interested in water/methanol injection if I haven't stated that before (I'm starting to lose track of what I've said in a few different places on the interwebs), I am not interested in a 5th injector, I consider it a ground rule of this build to run on four injectors and pump gas, period. If I was going to use the FFS kit for anything, it would be for its mechanical components in the low cost form without the 5th injector.

I never really wanted to use the system as-is, and have been, at best, very skeptical of "e-cool". My idea has been to use the blower, the intake manifold, the throttle body, and the fuel rail of the FFS kit with a standalone ECU. That's really what I was here to discuss. At this point, I'm taking a step back from having to get every last detail of that sorted out and am looking to do a naturally aspirated build that leaves the supercharger open in the future. Which gives me a chance to evaluate...

I can look into also those things, but none of that is considerate to my regulatory environment. I've already looked at K24 swaps and they didn't strike my personal interest for the cost. If I was going to go to the trouble of a swap, I would do a KL V6, since that was my first goal for the car before I discovered the Exocet and saw the practicalities of staying on the BP platform in terms of keeping this thing road legal in CA. I am still kinda madly in love with the idea of a KL swap, admittedly...but I'm about equally madly in love with having a poor man's Ariel Atom and the BP is just the more direct route there, and an engine I've grown to appreciate a lot more since I've owned the Miata (after looking in from the outside for about a decade). I should also make myself clear, I'm REALLY not dying for huge power or dyno bragging rights, though I do like some grunt and the torque of a supercharger is appealing. I'm mentally planning for about the ~10 lbs/HP level, that's kinda my speed. With a Miata that would definitely require the kick of a supercharger but with a 1600 lb. Exocet I'm getting pretty close at ~130-140 rwhp from an NA build. If I ever outgrow that power I can add forced induction later.

afm

iTrader: (3)

Step 1: Get an MS3, learn to set up your car
Step 2: Ride in a lot of fast Miatas (get out to Miatas @ MRLS!)
Step 3: Make decisions later

The sensor I'm referring to is largely a diagnostic sensor that checks if EGR is working. It is not necessary to have that sensor to use EGR. The harness plug for it just has the right wires (5V, sensor return, signal), and it's in the right place to hide a MAP sensor.

The EGR question is kind of a can of worms. Generally speaking, no actively controlled emissions features will be functioning out of the box with a standalone. It's not going to be a supported PnP feature, but it's just another solenoid so you can control it however you want with an MS3 output.

clarkma5

Hey guys,

Reviving my old thread instead of starting a new one. I decided to do an 11:1 NA build and have the engine getting built. Car's current status: MS3 w/ Innovate LC-2 wideband and MSLabs CAN Wideband module is installed on 1994 motor (which is now smoking badly, more than oil smoke, and is basically not in running condition...but at least I got to test that it starts and idles on the new ECU) using MAP + IAT. I should be a few weeks from getting my new motor, which is a 01-05 11:1 build with a 2.5 mm overbore, upgrade valve springs and retainers, and otherwise has Trackspeed's typical build components (billet oil pump, race-grade main bearings, etc.).

So I have a few questions about installing the new 01-05 engine in my 1994 chassis car, which has an MS3 built for the 1994 wiring harness:

1) Crank/Cam timing: Would it be better to adapt the 1994 CAS/CPS to the newer motor, or should I be wiring a 99-05 CAS/CPS into the existing wiring loom, or something else besides? Any tricks or pitfalls to be aware of?

2) Anything special I need to handle VVT? Am I wiring something from the engine into the MS3's options plug...?

3) Any advice on a barometric sensor for continuous reference back to the ECU? I have read some and see this is a contentious topic, whether or not you adjust your VE tables by a few percent or not...I was hoping I'd be able to figure that out with a laptop and some road testing and my AFR gauge, so wanted to avoid that debate right now. I see a lot of people adapting the MAPdaddy 4 bar sensor as an external baro, but DIYAutoTune recommends precisely AGAINST doing that...I haven't seen other options, what is out there? I'm thinking it would be good to have some sort of pressure sensor wired to the options plug and mounted somewhere near the ECU, does that make sense or am I crazy?

P.S. My 99 core became a 01-05 core thanks to the generosity of TrackSpeed offering a superior core he had on hand

DNMakinson

iTrader: (3)

Pick up the "boost sensor" from an NB, or any other MAP sensor that can be mounted in the engine or passenger compartments. You can calibrate it against the internal MAP sensor using a hand vacuum pump, a tee, and some hose.

The above mentioned "boost sensor" is approximately 1.4 bar unit, perfect for atmospheric readings.

I have not been able to tune for barometric as I have not been in the mountains sense I installed mine.

What is DIYAuto's issue with the 4-bar?