Frank's screwed me up because he didn't put part outlines and it confused me.

Oh and not ALL of the resistors need to be 1%. Just the two that set the ratio for the set point.

Finally? That diagram/post is from last June :)

It's part of the creative MS-community, no-one "owns" a complete and comprehensive view of the best method for every specific moment (new stuff gets tested/developed all the time). It doesn't help when old instructions don't get corrected/updated/improved.

The MS3 situation currently is almost comic (or I'm extremely spoiled with the DIYPNP). DIYPNP+VVTuner seems (to me) to be an easier route than an MS3 currently (even if i were to start from scratch).

It doesn't hurt anything and my source did not have 5% resistors available (and the difference is just couple of cents).
But, sure you can manage with 5-10% on the other ones if that's whats available.
If I have to order even just some parts, the shipping/handling makes it worthwhile to get it all, or even a couple of sets of components).

MS3 is easy, pull the MS2 daughterboard, plug in MS3...done. There's really nothing to MS3 that's really any different from MS2...as far as hardware is concerned.

VVT PID is done in MS3 as well.

Cool guys like me or y8s have just failed to document it. We wanna be exclusive.


I spent like $6 shipped on the components from digikey.com, and that was for (3) circuits worth.

Still nothing on the other sensors. I pulled the jumpers and the temps both sit right on 115 degrees. O2 doesn't move, and the TPS value is always at 325. The only thing working is the RPMs.

did you calibrate your AFR and thermistors and load a map?

I loaded a map, but I didn't calibrate the AFR or thermistors... I'm not remembering that part.

Go to Tools and Calibrate: TPS, Thermistors, and AFR.

Ok, calibrated the thermistors and O2 and still nothing.

I'm planning to install this MS tomorrow, does this sound like a problem with the stim, or a hardware problem, or a software problem? I'm using the map posted above, and I can post pictures of my board if that would help. I just don't know where to start here.

probably an issue with the stim...the pots are just variable resistors that change the voltage output back to the MS.

so should I just trust that it works and install it? That makes me nervous because once I start installing it I can't turn back, and I can't leave the car where I work on it overnight.

since the harness is pluggable, you can install to test without mounting the MS and just uninstall it and plug the stock ecu back in.

Well, I just went to start building my alternator circuit, but it looks like I accidentally bought a TL431AIP instead of a TL431. The thing I ended up with is "IC ADJ SHUNT REGULATOR 8-DIP" I went back to the digikey website and I can't figure out what I actually need. I suppose the thing I have won't work, so I guess I don't get to start squirting tomorrow. Can anybody help me with what part I do actually need?

the TL431AIP might just be a different form factor. like Inline Pin for example.

If the original "D" shaped package pins are 1. Ref, 2. Anode, 3. Cathode

the DIP would be 1. Cathode, 6. Anode, 8. Ref.

Other than size and shape, it looks like the same functionality.

http://www.fairchildsemi.com/ds/TL/TL431A.pdf

The gray vertical lines in this are connections, right?

Edit: nevermind, stupid question... I didn't wait long enough after I woke up to post.

Where can I get the +12V for this alternator circuit? I remember reading somewhere, but I can't remember.

I took it from one of the 12V pullup, but you could pick it from anywhere (there might be places with less stable 12V on the board, but I don't know).

i'm gonna throw out the warning again to test the alternator circuit before using it in the car.

It's easy to make mistakes when you cram things into the proto area (having components/leads crossing each other etc).
Verifying the function is vise.