MS3 + MS3X for Mk1 1.8
 

Planning on building this sometime and have trawled through reams of information.

I'll need:
MS330K
MS 23" wiring bundle
MS3x
DB37 for the MS3X
23" wiring bundle for MS3X
Wideband LC1 + G5
IAT Kit w/ally bung

This CABLE :idea:

Anything else to add???

If I follow the msextra Guide, what to do in sections 26,27,28. I'll want to run as much as possible from MS3X board, IGN, Inj, Cam, A/C, Idle and Fans.
Step 22, Do I leave out Q16 and jump R43 ?

If I follow Franks' guide,
Step 50, Do I install his Cam/Crank circuit even though I'll use the MS3x Cam ???
Step 65, as per 22 above. Also IGBTIN to JS10 and IGBTOUT to IGN ???
Would I also need to do the PWM converter mod?

Please bear in mind I am nowhere near an electronics expert :noob:

P.S. It's a 1995 Eunos V-SpecII

After more reading and help from Braineack, the V3,0 board should look like this with the 4g63 CAS circuit.

Now to sort out the jumpers.

For the 4g63 it's:
TSEL to OPTO OUT
TACHSELECT to XG1
5v from PROTO to top hole of C30

Other Jumps:
s12c to JS9 ? Yes
IAC1A to JS10 ? Yes
5v to JS10 + 470R ? Yes
Pull up Mods ????? Noooooooooooo.

Any help would be much appreciated.

Yes, or any circuit you use from the 'IAC' pins won't work


No, that's the cam input for the V3 board, you're getting the MS3x so use the cam input on that instead

Pull up Mods ?????
[/QUOTE]

The pull up mods you are on about are probably ignition out, as above don't bother and use the MS3x instead.

you have to build the input circuit for the NB crank already. Build it for the cam too and save the MS3X cam input for something fun like traction control.

For the 4G63 input circuit follow this:

http://www.boostedmiata.com/gallery2..._0001_mods.jpg


R12 gets a 470ohm resistor.


http://www.boostedmiata.com/gallery2..._0003_mods.jpg

and do the mods in RED, GREEN, and PURPLE.

It's an NA...

oh whoops... change "NB crank" to "NA CAS". the circuit is different but for sequential I still like the idea of using the main board tsel and js10 for standard inputs and letting the xpander do more fun things.

Cheers guys and thanks again Brain, I wasn't sure of the RED jumps.
Although Richy has a point, I was going to use the CAM input on the 3X.

p.s. edited other post.:)

Just did a check on 3X Wiring
http://www.msextra.com/doc/ms3/spareports.html#wiring

Part of reply from DIYautotune
"and any of your medium current outputs (24, 6, 25, 26, 27, but I'd save 9 for the IAC valve) may be used for fan or A/C output."

Doesn't mention relay switch or driver but the guide sounds like I'll have to build the circuits, where though?

youll use the built in driver on MS3x. like a spare INJ driver for fan.

Thanks Brain, oooooooooooo six spare to choose from now which one to use :laugh:
Might be best to use one for Air Con as well.

I have a box of bits, not to find the time to assemble :x:

Does R12 have to be a 1/2W 5% resistor or can I use one the same as the jumper from 5v to JS10 - 470R, 1/4W, 1%.

i use 1/4watt 5%

Glad I checked the resistors, the muppets at Maplin gave me 470K, swapped them for 1/2w 470 5%, so no problems now :x:
Part way through, and for my first circuit board, I reckon I've got some really neat solders :) Does help being a goldsmith ;)

Can someone double check this loom set up before I make a huge cock up.
Not 100% sure on the ones highlighted in blue.

Bump, anyone ??? Brain??? not 100% sure I'll be wiring the fans and AC up properly.

Built my MS3 now and also a JimstimX, just need to benchtest.

Attachment 188447
Attachment 188448
Attachment 188449
Attachment 188450

Am I correct in saying you do not jump 1Q to 1J or 1L to 2S
1Q= A/C Output, goes to pin 29 on the 3X for A/C input to the MS
1J= A/C Input, goes to pin25 on the 3X for A/C output from the MS
2S= A/C Fans, driven by pin 20 on 3X Inj H driver
1L= Fans Cooling, driven by pin 1 on 3X Inj G driver
2K= 5v Ref connect to pin 25 on the MS3

I'll have wideband o2 so 2N=OEM NB is not connected ?

That looks really tidy, do you do lots of soldering?

Sure do, but it's usually gold or silver with a gas/oxy torch.
Smallest pieces of solder I use go down to less than 0.2 Sq MM and approx 0.1mm thick. That's for really lightweight chains, eyes are on the way out so I'm starting to have to use an opti-visor for the real small stuff.