SlowRider

I still have not got a start or idle on my MS3/3x install. This install has been full of fail Just verified spark and injectors today. Spark is good, no wiring errors. InjC was not working. Turned out to be a bad pin in the MS3X harness side connector.

Like Yetidragon, I have both a 60-2 wheel and a CAS (magnetic) with the bigger lobe cut off from the inner wheel which is the SGC signal. I guess it is 180 out?

I want to reconfirm the physical timing. It looks like the timing pickup is either 66 deg or 78 deg BTDC (11 or 13 teeth). I think it is 78 deg. What do you use for rotating the crank (by hand)? I have pulled the plugs. I have clearance issues for the crank bolt, the front sway is preventing access. Do you have to drop the sway bar for access to the crank bolt on a 94 or is there another trick?

Once I have crank timing confirmed then do I add 360 deg to the Tooth #1 Angle setting? (Because of the 180 out on the CAM SGC signal?) So if the physical timing for the crank was 78 deg then Tooth #1 Angle would be 78+360=438 degrees?

After conversion to MS3, this sucker has never started from day 1. I must be missing something big, but d**n I can't figure it out. Freaking car is frustrating the h#ll out of me. I just want to drive it again.

Any help or insight greatly appreciated

SlowRider

There is spark during testmode, but not during crank. What would cause that?

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

bad crank/cam signal input.

use the composite logger and see if you're getting a good sync during cranking. if not, you'll see what signals are not reading correctly.

you should also follow this up with your msq, datalog of cranking (10-15sec), and composite log of cranking, attached to your next post.

SlowRider

Necro, sorry.

Issue was wrong edge for CAM signal, doh. The signal was too close to TDC so MS3 was firing in wrong cycle (360 out)

OK, it runs a few seconds before it dies. If one gives it gas - it dies.
Got some logs, plus msq.

I'd like to get this car to move under its own power. Freaking rotors are bright orange with thick rust.

Can someone help interpret what to change so I can get a stable idle? I'm not quite sure how to interpret the logs yet.

Thanks

SlowRider

Anyone? Do I need to start a new thread?

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

you have: 1 squirts per engine cycle, should be 2.

plus you have 3.1 as req_fuel, do you have like 1000cc injectors?

SlowRider

I've got ID1000 injectors.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

well try 2 squirts and see what happens and make sure the deadtime curve is correcyt

SlowRider

I hope the dead time is OK. Started a thread on how to calc dead time about a year ago... The dead time in my ms3 is based on that thread.

Out to try 2 squirts.

SlowRider

Tried 2 squirts. No difference really.

Looks very lean. Not sure why yet.

Dead time? Non-linear behavior for small PW?

SlowRider

Put in all recommended changes. No joy.

TS doesn't seem to retain the WBO2 selection in the CalibrateAFR menu, is that a problem? Also the names in the dialog box don't really match up with the *.inc files.

Here are the latest msq and datalog.

At one point the engine nearly quits (350 rpm and 13.5:1) and then runs for a bit, but the AFR is very high - at 790 rpm ~ 20:1, where it dies.

Don't know what to do next.

I appreciate all the help received to date. It just have to be something dumb, but I don't know what it is.

Matt Cramer

TunerStudio's AFR table calibration is one way, so it won't retain the info. That's normal.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

the car is dying due to your horrible idle control. you're letting the idle valve close and, lo and behold, the car quits.


turn on closed loop idle control, and tune!

SlowRider

Hmm, thought I turned off idle control. (Was trying to reduce the variable space.)

Are the defaults ok for closed loop idle control on a miata?

Since I've been able to bugger up lots of stuff so far - what is the recommended way to control the stock iac with a ms3/3x? Maybe I hooked it up wrong.

Not like I'm going out right now. Wind has really picked up, Sandy is getting more serious here...

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

you're on warmup only and you let the idle valve pretty much close.

I can post my settings in a bit.

SlowRider

Thanks

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

here's all my idle settings, enjoy the huge picture:

SlowRider

What is the y-axis on closed loop idle initial values? C or F or ?

Do I need to convert these values to C? I use C for MS.

SlowRider

Bump. Brain, in your settings, is the y axis C or F ?
Thanks.

SJP0tato

iTrader: (7)

I'd assume F, since you'd want a higher idle when the engine is cold (50F or below), gradually decreasing until the engine is at 160F+. That's my guess/assumption at least, based on normal warmed-up engine operating temps of 180-215F.