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Old 07-11-2016, 03:32 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by acedeuce802 View Post
I've been curious how DIY grounds their shield. You can probe around to see if the shield has continuity to the DB37 back shell or to any grounds. The shield must only be grounded on one side, so if DIY already grounded it at the ECU connector, than it should be ungrounded at the sensor side. Having both sides grounded would cause a current loop and can magnify noise.
interesting, i did not know that. i think i can go in and remove it from the MS side since i already have it grounded to the chassis.
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Old 07-11-2016, 05:00 PM   #22
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i went ahead and disconnected one end of the shield wire. no change.
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Old 07-12-2016, 10:06 PM   #23
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still having some difficulty with this and idle control.
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Old 07-13-2016, 09:09 AM   #24
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for the dash pots i adjusted them per Franks writeup. I also added the 1k resistor the way frank does.

"– pullup for the VR circuit: Install a 1k resistor in the left hole of R13 (= 5V). Connect the other end to the right side of R45 just below it (= VRIN)"

"Fine adjustment of the VR circuits:
– For the main board, measure the voltage on the upper leg of R54 while turning R56.
– For the MS3X board, measure the voltage on the lower leg of R17 (close to U7) while turning R11.
In both cases, you want to see about 2.5 to 3 volts at that point, which puts you right in the middle of the actual output range of the sensors.
"

i am honestly not surprised if i have excessive noise. This is just at the initial install stage. i have the 10ft harness uncut running to a diybob i had laying around. The plan is that i use this temporarily while i am prepping my vvt swap. then once that goes in i will build a custom engine harness for the VVT engine that is completely made up of the MS wiring.


the 1K resistor is a pull-up required to get the signal to show up at all.

when i do the pots, i dont measure voltage. Reset your R11 and turn in 3.5 turns back CW or in the least, turn yours another half turn CW.
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Old 07-13-2016, 11:55 AM   #25
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ok, so i gave that a try.

i started turning the pot CCW until it stopped or clicked. It never did after at least 10 revolutions.

So i decided to hook up the jimstim and check the voltage at the lower leg of R17. It was at 1.57 now and i KNOW it was at 2.75 before. It will also not go up any higher unless i mess with the Hysteresis adjustment.

R11 busted?
JimStim not applying voltage to that circuit correctly? when i adjusted originally, i was using a spare battery and inline fuse wired to the ms3 db37.
im an idiot?
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Old 07-13-2016, 01:13 PM   #26
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put it back in the car and retested the voltage at the bottom of R17, still only 1.5v
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Old 07-13-2016, 04:12 PM   #27
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Ok, so its working right now. revving like it should. Here is what i did.

After the previous testing, i decided i would turn the hysteresis full CCW until it reached the max voltage reading i could get. 2.3 or so. I was going to try that because of the Brain quote below.

"im with everyone else on the adjusting pots now.

I dont even check voltages:
spin R52 & R56 CCW at least 12 times. Spin R56 CW 8.5 turns.
on the adpater board, spin the two back at least 6 times. Spin R11 CW 3.5 turns."


I put my voltmeter on it after turning it CCW and it was now reading 4.5v. WTF?? Ok, no clue what was going on before, possible multimeter being shitty. so i keep the hysteresis full CCW and adjust R11 to 2.95v(2.75v originally). Now the car is back to the super high revving stock 1.6 it should be.

thanks for all the support you bunch of flaming hairdressers.

Now on to make the idle right so i can run my AC!
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