Hey having some issues with my MTX-L plus WB. Any help/guidance would be much appreciated. I currently have the WB installed in the stock position. I was only driving it on the weekends to familiarize myself with the MS. Due to a family members jeep going out I loaned them my DD an started driving the 99 with the MS. Was driving fine for about 4 days(during that time autotuning to an from work until I wasnt getting anymore cell change). On the 5th day got an E8 error code as I was pulling into work. On the way home had no issues and for the next two days no issues. long story short and not related but 3rd day after E8 the water pump went out an so I replaced it over the weekend. During this time I had the battery disconnected(shouldn't matter). Anyway. Started up an drove fine for a day then randomly started freezing up/pegging full lean or rich and staying stuck there for awhile. It appears to be heat related but I was wondering if anyone could take a look at the log an give an opinion. It has not given an error code again just the erratic behavior. I cant tell if its noise or bad sensor.


Summary: MTX-L plus. 12v wired with fuse an relay from battery. Ground going directly to MS3. Stock location o2 sensor. No error code.
So results of my searches an your opinions on what route I should take if it is in fact the sensor.
1) Heatsink like posted in this thread https://www.miataturbo.net/diy-turbo...eadings-93315/
2) Weld the 1" bung it came with further down stream(have a mig so can do myself)
3) Throw on aftermarket header(obx i think, pulled off donor) I have laying around with bung further down.

Turbo is still a month out an want to get these FF in an "tuned" before then. Don't want to buy another sensor until I know for sure its bad.
Thanks

 

Try recalibrating?

 

Awww ***** thought I covered everything I did... Yeah I recalibrated it twice. No change. It does appear to show acurrate readings while at idle after it "unfreezes" not sure if that means anything..

 

If the sensor is bad heat didn't kill it. EGT's on turbo cars are much much higher and not necessarily any further down stream than the stock location.

 

What does the manual say the E8 code means?

 

It popped the E8 code once last week then was working fine. I found some people with similar issues on the nismo forums but there was never any resolution to their issue. After trying another sensor only to have the same issue most appeared to switch to the aem x-series.

This is very similar to what mine is doing now but with no E8 error it appears his issue was the heater controller but then makes a comment about how it was wired in bad by a shop.. kind of lost on what the most painless way to tackle this is.

 

Well there you go. Even the manual says it would only happen at WOT if it were overheating. All signs point to a new sensor.

 

Alright ill bite the bullet. Guess I was just looking for some confirmation. After researching I found a lot of horror stories about going through 2-3 sensor before just switching units.
Thanks again

 

It's right there in the manual....

Without having an O-scope and knowing what to look for with it you won't get a more definite answer,

 

One thing they probably dont say in the manual is to never let the sensor pre-heat without the engine running. Its really easy to do when you have it wired to ignition. Letting it heat up while you sit there goofing off, then when you star the engine the condensed water from a cold engine hits the sensor and kills it.

 

Make sure you weld that new bung for turbo use 3 ft from where the turbo will sit.

 

solution to all of this: toss the innovate in the trash where it belongs and get an aem.

 

All the threads I see regarding MTXL or LC1/LC2 is why I sold my new one...mostly

 

Grrrr. I already ordered the replacement sensor earlier. Might just send it back an get the x-series... I don't want to deal with this again. Also don't want to be out the $100 for the mtxl but such is life I guess. Idk.

 

AEM has a screen refresh rate slower than calculator

 

Yeah, its a huge problem that never ever affected anything or impacted in any way on the 600+ cars I've tuned. YOu're right

lol

 

Ha. Idk. just started using an ol ti-84 again and it takes forever. So I mean from what I've found just doing a quick search the aem signal appears to be cleaner (maybe just CAN setup) than the mtx but does the refresh rate of the screen really matter that much? From my limited understanding really only need the gauge for initial tuning after your honed in it's more of just a safety monitor. An of most of the tuning is being through TS does it matter if its slightly slower? Guess what I'm asking is does the refresh rate affect the signal the MS is receiving?

 

Guess that kinda answers my above question... Lol

 

My MTX-L would peg full lean and come back on at idle, new bosch sensor fixed it, got it at pepboys of all places, in stock for a decent price ($45)

 

cool story

why even bother using a gauge?