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Old 07-22-2014, 07:26 PM   #61
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No i didnt get the Turbo or manifold machined flat but they are not leaking at all, also i dont have a BOV at the moment and this setup has never had one.
Feel the flames yet? WHY U NO SEAL??

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From what i remeber the cold start is usually around high 12s but once it warms up it will fluctuate between 13.5-15.5 and you can actually feel the engine stumble through the gear stick at the same time the idle will also fluctuate.
This all sounds semi normal on a cold start. High amounts of misfiring may be new plugs? gapping? ... Since you have some experience with the fuel rail why not try this way of injector cleaning?
Code:
http://youtu.be/7aT4S1lIBAY
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I also checked around the injectors for any sort of moisture and only found slight moisture on the actual injectors them selfs nothing on the surrounding area and this was on all 4 so it might just be residue oil?

I have MOT for the car tomorrow so once that is done ill get about 10-20mins of logging done and post it here.

It just seems really strange as the map should be fine, since everything is the exact same as when it was mapped in another shell, and I also phoned the guy who I got everything from and he said that the idle was basicly like a stock MX5.

Also i dont know if i mentioned before but if you rev the car at a stand still and let it decel when it gets to about 1800RPM the engine will sort of hiccup its odd.
What is MOT?

And by definition mapped in another shell? Shell being only the metal frame/body swapped? Or do you use 'other' electronic parts already in your car that you're using now currently on this swapped setup.

1800rpm Hiccup as stutter? stall? choke die? Is there any pinging noise in that area?

If you try that injector cleaning method, get new o rings. lube w/ oil and ur set. Worth a try
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Old 07-22-2014, 09:40 PM   #62
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Originally Posted by Girz0r View Post
Feel the flames yet? WHY U NO SEAL??



This all sounds semi normal on a cold start. High amounts of misfiring may be new plugs? gapping? ... Since you have some experience with the fuel rail why not try this way of injector cleaning?
Code:
http://youtu.be/7aT4S1lIBAY


What is MOT?

And by definition mapped in another shell? Shell being only the metal frame/body swapped? Or do you use 'other' electronic parts already in your car that you're using now currently on this swapped setup.

1800rpm Hiccup as stutter? stall? choke die? Is there any pinging noise in that area?

If you try that injector cleaning method, get new o rings. lube w/ oil and ur set. Worth a try
Yeah I bought a engine, exhaust, ecu, turbo, manifold everything you can imagine basicly a prebuild and mapped turbo'd engine and dropped it straight into my car the only difference between the two is my wiring loom thats it.

So in theory everything should work fine.

at 1800RPM its sort of the like a stutter, no pinging noise or anything like that, also a MOT is our yearly inspecting to check the vehicle is road worthy.

I havnt seen the video yet but ill take a look and also talk to my friend who owns a garage tomorrow and see what he says since I have to be their tomorrow anyways for the MOT.

And about the gaskets, it makes me laugh it really does, I dont care I personally see no downside to using one even if they may not last as long its my money wasted but considering the gasket costs nothing really and they last years if you get a decent one I see no reason to go out my way when I havnt got the time to just to get the manifold skimmed just yet.

Maybe when I have time and the car is running right yeah.

Ow and as for the plugs these are gapped already to 0.8 also if they were badly gapped surely it would be more noticeable hight in the rev range which its not?
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Old 07-22-2014, 09:45 PM   #63
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Originally Posted by xXxKillDogxXx View Post
Yeah I bought a engine, exhaust, ecu, turbo, manifold everything you can imagine basicly a prebuild and mapped turbo'd engine and dropped it straight into my car the only difference between the two is my wiring loom thats it.

So in theory everything should work fine.

at 1800RPM its sort of the like a stutter, no pinging noise or anything like that, also a MOT is our yearly inspecting to check the vehicle is road worthy.

I havnt seen the video yet but ill take a look and also talk to my friend who owns a garage tomorrow and see what he says since I have to be their tomorrow anyways for the MOT.

And about the gaskets, it makes me laugh it really does, I dont care I personally see no downside to using one even if they may not last as long its my money wasted but considering the gasket costs nothing really and they last years if you get a decent one I see no reason to go out my way when I havnt got the time to just to get the manifold skimmed just yet.

Maybe when I have time and the car is running right yeah.
in your own, idiotic, theory

you obviously can't comprehend the irony here, so let me explain:
the guy with a crappy running car is telling everyone what should and shouldn't work, and what's good and bad practice when trying to make a car run good
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Old 07-23-2014, 03:39 AM   #64
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Default Gaskets

If gaskets are really that bad why would manufactures sell car with them and why would you be able to buy them. They are not a bad option.

And my running issues is nothing to do with the gaskets.
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Old 07-23-2014, 08:33 AM   #65
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If you have thoroughly checked for possible vacuum leaks and you have reinstalled the ground straps to the firewall from the back of the head and from the harness to the ground point next to the throttle body, you just need to tune the car.

You must retune the idle every time you do anything with the car. It runs poorly because you haven't smoothed the adjustments. They often run differently just from changes in the weather temperature and pressure as well as changes in altitude.

I'm going to beat this dead horse one more time. If you don't tune the idle, it will continue to run poorly.



You actually have to do work with a laptop. This is not a stock computer. It won't figure it out for itself.
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Old 07-23-2014, 09:34 AM   #66
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Originally Posted by xXxKillDogxXx View Post
Yeah I bought a engine, exhaust, ecu, turbo, manifold everything you can imagine basicly a prebuild and mapped turbo'd engine and dropped it straight into my car the only difference between the two is my wiring loom thats it.
hey, did you ever think about tuning for your own damn car?
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Old 07-23-2014, 09:35 AM   #67
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yawn...

good morning, minions.
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Old 07-23-2014, 09:40 AM   #68
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yawn...

good morning, minions.
sup, brah.
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Old 07-23-2014, 01:55 PM   #69
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If you have thoroughly checked for possible vacuum leaks and you have reinstalled the ground straps to the firewall from the back of the head and from the harness to the ground point next to the throttle body, you just need to tune the car.

You must retune the idle every time you do anything with the car. It runs poorly because you haven't smoothed the adjustments. They often run differently just from changes in the weather temperature and pressure as well as changes in altitude.

I'm going to beat this dead horse one more time. If you don't tune the idle, it will continue to run poorly.



You actually have to do work with a laptop. This is not a stock computer. It won't figure it out for itself.
Im just convinced there is a problem some where mainly because when I tried to autotune it two days ago when i fitted the plugs I still had the terrible idle.

Also I got my emissions results back today and its quite lean ill post data specifics tomorrow as I forgot to pick up the sheet from the car.

Is it possible the IACV is stuck open? I did disconnect it and it made no difference to the running of the car.
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Old 07-23-2014, 02:18 PM   #70
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It has a little motor that makes it open and close, much like the popup headlamp doors. If you unplug a headlamp door motor with a headlamp up then it stays up. If you unplug the IAC motor it will stay wherever it is when unplugged, and therefore do whatever it was doing. If you really wanted to get daring you could hook a laptop to the MS and :gasp: manipulate the idle settings [bolded for emphasis] and determine if the IAC was responsive.

I never autotune the idle cells of my fuel map because it gives my car a poor quality idle. Tuning them by hand is required for best results.
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Old 07-23-2014, 02:20 PM   #71
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There is a recurring theme here regarding you hooking a laptop to the MS, just in case that continues to escape you.
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Old 07-23-2014, 02:34 PM   #72
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It has a little motor that makes it open and close, much like the popup headlamp doors. If you unplug a headlamp door motor with a headlamp up then it stays up. If you unplug the IAC motor it will stay wherever it is when unplugged, and therefore do whatever it was doing. If you really wanted to get daring you could hook a laptop to the MS and :gasp: manipulate the idle settings [bolded for emphasis] and determine if the IAC was responsive.

I never autotune the idle cells of my fuel map because it gives my car a poor quality idle. Tuning them by hand is required for best results.

Okay well thats actually helpful tbh, I not being retarded but its just one of them things where you are sure there is a problem so much you just get tunnel vision in a sense.

Ill take a look at the idle settings tomorrow and go from there, however how would i manipulate the idle setting in such a way to check if the IAC is responsive?
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Old 07-23-2014, 03:04 PM   #73
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That is an excellent question, actually. Mine is an MS1 so the locations and names of some of the parameters may be different. For mine it is under the "More Settings" tab and then under "idle settings". While the car is running and warmed up, if I increase the value in the "slow idle speed (RPM)" box to 2000 and click the "burn" button then my idle air control valve should open to try to achieve an idle of 2000 RPM. If the idle doesn't rise at all then your IAC is either unplugged or stuck.
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Old 07-23-2014, 03:27 PM   #74
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Okay well I have a MS1 as well so hopefully that should work for me however while I was waiting for a response I found this: Tuning Idle Valve - Ms2 - Guides: Forced induction - MX5Nutz Forum

Should help tomorrow hopefully? And if the IAC is broken I have two spares so should be good to go!

I have to ask though what could have made the engine run so different during the swap from one shell to another, that is what really makes me think its a mechanical fault rather than the map? could a different loom really make that much of a difference?
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Old 07-23-2014, 04:03 PM   #75
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Originally Posted by xXxKillDogxXx View Post
I have to ask though what could have made the engine run so different during the swap from one shell to another, that is what really makes me think its a mechanical fault rather than the map? could a different loom really make that much of a difference?
The way it sounds with your swap, your MS is picking up signals different than what it had in the previous shell.. your 'mapped' tune is bunk and you need to re tune according to new input values.

A tuned map does not follow the motor if you swap ecu w/ motor... Cause then those two (ecu + motor) are in their own and when placed in another shell. The outside environment of those two components are different and possibly getting different values.
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Old 07-23-2014, 04:09 PM   #76
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could a different loom really make that much of a difference?
Yes. And removal and reinstallation of the same engine into the same loom might cause changes as well if all of the same grounding (earth in Britspeak) connections are not used or if there is a difference in the quality of the connection. A slight difference in ground resistance can cause what you are seeing and much worse and variations are commonplace. Therefore, retuning after major work is normal.
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Old 07-23-2014, 04:29 PM   #77
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Yes. And removal and reinstallation of the same engine into the same loom might cause changes as well if all of the same grounding (earth in Britspeak) connections are not used or if there is a difference in the quality of the connection. A slight difference in ground resistance can cause what you are seeing and much worse and variations are commonplace. Therefore, retuning after major work is normal.
Thanks guys, I just needed it a bit more clear because trying to get rid of that hole "I know something is broke" aspect when your looking for a fault that is not there is had to rid of.

Ill go ahead for the idle settings tomorrow the rest of the map actually does not seem that bad and on boost the afrs hit 12-13s which far what i have read is a good sign however is more on the lean side?

Once the idle is sorted will a auto tune be okay to correct any major issues and then from there I should correct anything manually yes?

Also its been bugging me for a while and I cannot find any information on it but how can i check my MS1 has launch control? cause i do have spare wires so im gathering that means i have extra input/outputs?
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Old 07-23-2014, 05:12 PM   #78
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Thanks guys, I just needed it a bit more clear because trying to get rid of that hole "I know something is broke" aspect when your looking for a fault that is not there is had to rid of.

Ill go ahead for the idle settings tomorrow the rest of the map actually does not seem that bad and on boost the afrs hit 12-13s which far what i have read is a good sign however is more on the lean side?

Once the idle is sorted will a auto tune be okay to correct any major issues and then from there I should correct anything manually yes?

Also its been bugging me for a while and I cannot find any information on it but how can i check my MS1 has launch control? cause i do have spare wires so im gathering that means i have extra input/outputs?
I'd shoot for 11-12 to be on the safe side on boost, 12-13 is a little lean.

14-15 should be expected on freeway speed 5th gear while out of boost.

And anything higher than that is super lean and or injector cut ie 22.4 or higher etc.

And for Launch Control,
http://www.mslabs.gr/mslc.html - Reverant's site chart
http://www.msextra.com/feature-xref.html - This other page with features listed.
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Old 07-23-2014, 05:28 PM   #79
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Just use the "advanced settings" tab in the autotune section to exclude autotuning from 1500rpm and below so it doesn't screw with your idle. I believe it is called Min RPM.
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Old 07-24-2014, 06:03 PM   #80
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I didn't manage to get anything done today as I was waiting for my MOT retest today which never happend cause Pro Tyre dont make time for retests because it dont make them any extra money...

Its just wrong tbh I paid for my test and by law I have 14 days to go back for a retest and I gave them all day to fit it in and they just kept me waiting around all day... **** takers.

Either way the hole in my rear drivers side sill has now been patched, it was right at the end on the corner as it turns into the arch it was a bitch to make plates for it but did a pretty good job.

When im doing the coilovers im gonna rebush everything and hammerite all the arms to clean it up and possibly get some time in the garage to go over all the welds with a die grinder and smooth it out.

I also managed to fix my hand brake issue took a good while cause they are just a bitch to adjust and it seems my calipers are so out of a balance tbh even when you slack off the handbrake cable and adjust the rear calipers and then you take the slack off the cable and check the handbrake one side will be perfect and the other nothing.

Either way thats done now after a full rebuild and another adjustment.

Also my idle AFRS are extremely lean 15-17s... when cold its about 13-14 though. and in boost I do hit 10s but it flucates between 10-11- sometimes 12 but that might be be coming off the throttle when it hits 12s in boost.

Anyways ill update tomorrow guys, and hopefully adjust me idle settings.
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