well i found this page for uploading the firmware
http://www.diyautotune.com/diypnp/do..._firmware.html

my laptop wouldnt even make a connection to the ms
it keeps saying it could not open port 1
my moms laptop doesnt even have a serial port

and my desktop makes a connection but i keep getting this "ERROR: Timed out reading response, 0xE0" on the firmware flasher

this is getting to be mighty frustrating

never mind i dont think my desktop is making a connection as i just ran through the same steps but never hooking up the diypnp and the same exact error came up

i restarted my laptop and now i am getting the same error
it opens up the com port but times out
and this is with or without the cable hooked up so it is as if the ms is not even connecting

i hope i just have the wrong cable and no problems with the diypnp itself

anyone else encounter this problem before?

Is the MS plugged into a power supply?

yes i tried it with a power supply and in the car with the coils unplugged.
i bought the db9 cable from a mom and pop shop
they were all out and the guy sold me his personal cable

he said it was old and he was pretty sure that it was a straight through
so its possible it wasnt. they are closed tomorrow so i will return it to him on monday
they are good people at that shop, i go there often

since i got the same time out error wethor the cable was hooked up or not on both pc's that lead me to believe/hope that i had the wrong cable. After searching online i was able to verify that the incorrect cable is a possible cause of a time out error.

man oh man
this has been one mighty frustrating day
tomorrow im going to a different pc shop that i know will have the brand new cables in stock. I just hope that that is the problem. If that dont fix it then i guess i will just go over the assembly instructions again and check all my connections.

i really hope that cable is what the problem is

well i just plugged this thing into the wall and i hecked the board for power.
12v is showing 12v and 5v is showing 5v
thats a good sign
what else can my anxious impatient self check while waitint til noon for the pc shop to open?

well as it turns out i did have the wrong cable
hopefully this thread will help peeps in the future
if you get a timed out error while attempting to flash firmware
you likely have the wrong cable

anyways i got some wiring questions answered on this site and some on another
i will post a link to the other thread in case anyone comes accross this thread with the same questions

http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=433853

well im all hooked up and ready to load base map
all except i cant find firmware version 3.0.3s
and its not here
http://www.msextra.com/doc/ms2extra/files/release/

and that is the link provided on diyautotunes firmware upload walkthrough

if someone could link me to that firmware it would be awesome
or if you can link me to base maps for different firmware(and link me to that firmware too)
that would be great

its a 90 miata afm removed
other than that its stock

ok diyautotune said to ignore the mismatch and it should work

after trying to start the car it says i have a configuration error " conflict with boost control pins"
then it says
"to resolve this you need to correct this error in your settings then power cycle the controller"

so does that mean correct the error then turn the ms off then back on?
how do i correct this?
i am naturally aspirated
and do i need to calibrate my gm open element iat sensor?
i calibrated the other things diyautotune said to do on the link in my first post

edit: i found the boost dontrol settings and shut that off
now it is all good and i am getting a no start
i hope i didnt flood it

what do i do now?

Go to the boost control dialog and disable it, it's assigned to the same output as something else. Once you burn it, it should instruct you to turn the key off then back on, same as powercycling.

You don't need to calibrate the GM IAT, you do need to calibrate the CLT sensor.

If it's not starting, I would try increasing the fuel at idle as a first pass. Mine wouldn't start either until I added quite a bit of fuel.

did you configure the AFR, CLT, and AIT settings? before trying to start?

What did you do for the fueling? Did you do the Hot Side Driver circuit to 1C? If so, did you remove the ST_SIGN fuse?

according to this i calibrated my clt and set O2 to narrow band
on one of these threads someone told me i did not need to calibrate the gm iat
do i need to ? and to what specs?

no i did not calibrate afr
idk even what that means
air fuel ratio?

again thanks guys
you are life savers

Go to tools up top, you need to claibrate the AFR and the thermistors. Sounds like you did just the CLT.

You must also do the OEM AIT. I'm sure if you pull up the AIT gauge it shows an insanely wrong temperature. Follow the directions on what values to submit.

Once complete, pull up the AFR calibration, set it to narrowband and click burn.

these steps should be in that writeup of mine, you just need to use calibrate it for your particular setup (NB, OEM AIT, and OEM CLT)



Now answer my last series of questioning before posting 47 more posts over 38 different forums.

and yes st sign fuse is removed
i removed it at the very begining

should i try this?

Yes, try that. If it works, it means you wired the fuel pump and high side switch incorrectly.

idk what exactly this means but on the instrument panel when the key is on wethor cranking or not it says fuel load is 97.8%
should i continue with the diag box jumper?

and hey shifty you never told me what to do to increase fuel at idle if i need to do so

That just means that the MAP sees atmospheric pressure, which is correct when the engine is off.

Yes, do the diag box jumper.

To change the fuel, go in to the VE table and increase the % in the idle cells. I should preface that with the fact that mine would *start* but would immediately die due to being too lean.

i just did the diag box jump and WOOHOO she started
but no idle
i have to feather pedal to keep running

Probably too lean. Add fuel in the VE table.

Double check that you have the fuel pump edge connector going to the input of the high side switch, and the output going to 1C.