im looking at the pictures i took of your board and harness...i need to you to swap number 1 & 4 spark plug wires with 2 & 3....

Swap them on the coils?

Sorry, dumb question. I was frustrated.

Anyway, I swapped them, IT RUNS!.....like shit. But its ok, it runs. Right now I have the intercooler off, no open vacuum lines after the TB. I crank and it starts really quickly, but it won't idle. It stumbles when I rev it but it will rev to at least 2k rpm (I didn't want to go any higher).

Now I need to fix my wideband because I know its WAY off. This is a screen shot from when I tried to reset it to 0-5v 10-20afr. It says I cant?
Attachment 213643

I spent about an hour trying to figure this damn thing out. No matter what I do it won't let me input the 0-5v 10-20 afr. It keeps saying the damn 860.5 or higher. I don't know what else to do.

why dont you just leave it at default and change the megatune settings accordingly?

Because I have no idea what AFR is at 860 and 2619.

I'm seriously out of ideas. Do I need to unplug the sensor and do a full reboot? I need help!! I have found tutorials for tuning the rest of it, but I can't get started until I sort this out.

call innvoative....they have great customer service....ask for Felipe.

I'm stoopid. I forgot about their forum (I'm on too damn many). That also reminded me I had this problem before. On the first page there is that pull down tab. On mine it says custom, it needs to say gasoline.

Hopefully when I get home thats the problem.

That was the problem with the LC-1. I looked at that and it seemed familiar.

I'm not getting spark on the 1 & 4 coil. I let it "idle" and I pulled all the plug wires out. 2 & 3 will stall the engine, 1 & 4 have no effect.

I'm taking it apart right now to check if the harness has continuity with the pins off the ecu board. My multimeter probes are too big, so I couldn't get in there. Let me know what to do/check and I will.

Thanks.

see the two wires going onto the resistors....check to make sure those didn't come up somehow in shipping

http://www.boostedmiata.com/MS/built...6/CIMG1222.JPG

also make sure the little legs of the transistors just below each aren't making contact.

Those wires were good and tight. However, the long chip on the other side was loose and had a bent out tooth. I straightened the tooth and pushed it back in. I'm going out now to check if it works.

That wasn't it. Still no spark. Anything else I should look at? I'll do another look over and snap some pictures.

well there is something going on with the board if the one LED isnt lighting...i was certain it was when i bench tested it here.

the entire spark output goes from the chip to R26 & R29, the transitor (q8 and q6), and then r28 and r24...I could see the one light being dim if some sort of solder flux or leg is making contact where it shouldnt.

i cant see anythign from the pictures i took.

I traced all the wires, I can't see any loose ones. Looking head on at the MS the right LED is really bright, the middle is off, and the left is dimmer than the other by about half.

I should be looking for solder or wire contact?

I'm reworking my MS map for the miata and saw this... I have 4.9 down for req fuel... is 5.6 more appropriate? rx7 560s.

Im using 6.1 for my 440cc

Right now my TB pipe is at the shop getting the RS flange and AIT bung welded on. Once I get it back I'm going to put the stock computer back in to see if it works.

well something is wrong with it if the one led is dim....you can send it back to me and i can take another look at it at least.

as far as req_fuel, it doesn't really matter...but since I used a DIY fuel map for his base, then i need to use 12.7 AFR in the calcs.