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Old 03-08-2006, 03:27 AM   #21
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I'm not having any problems using the switched 12V going into the radio for the relay. But I took the radio out a while ago so the 12V wasn't doing anything else. Your relay setup looks good to me!!!


MegaTune 2.25 should work with most of the recent editions of MSnS-Extra. You need to install MegaTune 2.25, then go to where you unzipped the MSnS-E file and run the "edit settings" DOS application to change the Mt settings to run MSnS-E as the default (also do youre wideband sensor there as well). Save the file that you have opened.

Then run the "copyini" DOS application to copy the s19 file that is in your MSnS-E folder into MegaTune 2.25.

After that, you should be good to go.

Just remember though that if you are creating your own msq file, open MegaTune and then open the default msq file that is back in where you unzipped your MSnS-E file. Then make your changes to that file.

Steve
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Old 03-14-2006, 06:55 AM   #22
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Steve,

Do you live in Brisbane, and if so what is your favourite beer?

This MegaSquirt stuff looks great, I'll be sure to consider it when it comes to getting aftermarket management. Do you have any pics of the mods you've done to on the PCB?

Cheers,
Tim
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Old 03-14-2006, 08:05 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by saboteur
Steve,

Do you live in Brisbane, and if so what is your favourite beer?

This MegaSquirt stuff looks great, I'll be sure to consider it when it comes to getting aftermarket management. Do you have any pics of the mods you've done to on the PCB?

Cheers,
Tim
No mate, unfortunately I'm not a Brisbane boy. I'm a couple of borders down from there. But if you're in the mood for a drive my favourite beer is Stella. Mmmmmmm beer......

The MS really is a brilliant little ECU. It does everything that I need, it's an amazing learning experience and it's the best bang-for-buck mod that I've ever tried.

The other MS install topic on this forum has pictures of the board mods that are required to get the CAS signal, the spark output and the idle control. Feel free to get in contact with me if you decide to go the MS route.

Steve

Last edited by Aussie Driver; 03-14-2006 at 08:24 AM.
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Old 03-14-2006, 12:47 PM   #24
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I spent a summer in Lismore back in 1992 at the University of Three Rivers, just south of Brisbane and the Gold Coast. It was my summer, your winter. I loved your country, Texans and Australians have very similar cultures, great memories.

Chris
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Old 03-14-2006, 11:16 PM   #25
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This link might be of some value:
http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=16655

Quote:
BTW, All of these are www.amp.com part numbers.

This is what you plug your OEM 96/97 connectors into:-

174915-6 76-position multilock mating assembly

You run wires from this to OEM wiring harness connectors which are:-

174516-6 26-position pin receptacle
174515-6 22-position pin receptacle
174514-6 16-podition pin receptacle
174913-6 12-position pin receptacle

And these are the pins:-

173631-1 .070 series receptacle contact
173716-1 .040 series receptacle contact
I'm thinking I'll buy both sides and create a short harness that plugs in where the stock ECU plugs in. From there it will have wires running to both the MegaSquirt and the stock ECU if it is retained. This means that I can revert back easily, and best of all I can do all the soldering at my desk!
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Old 04-29-2006, 10:27 PM   #26
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Hey Steve,

Quote:
Originally Posted by Aussie Driver
Then you need to get 3 1K 1/4 watt resistors to complete the board mod for the CAS
On the DIYAutoTune site you mentioned it says you need (1) 1k 1/4w resistor and (2) 470 ohm 1/4w resistors, but you said you used (3) 1k 1/4w resistors. Should I just do as the site says or should I substitute the 470 ohm resistors for 1k ones?

Thanks again mate!
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Old 04-30-2006, 05:51 AM   #27
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That's interesting. When I did the mod the diy site said to use 3 1k 1/4 w resistors. Now they seemed to have changed their mind..... Interesting.

I'm using the 3 1 K 1/4 w resistors and I haven't had any issues with my spark control at all. So I guess you could go either way.

I wouldn't mind knowing why they made the change on the diy site though....
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Old 05-17-2006, 01:39 AM   #28
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This thread talks a little bit about the instructions changing:
http://www.msefi.com/viewtopic.php?t=18883

Edit: I posted this too soon, I realise you've read that since you replied to it too!
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Old 05-17-2006, 10:07 AM   #29
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I like your method of piggybacking connections and having quick disconnects. I also plan on using this method. Out of curiousity where did you mount your MS? It seems like if it's mounted close to the stock ECU then your MAP sensor vacuum line is going to be pretty long (10' or so). I'd think this would cause troubles tuning. If you mount it in the engine bay the wiring seems like it would be considerably more nasty. Just looking for what other folks decided to do. I want to go full MSnS, and keep the stock ECU for diagnostics (emissions laws require me to have it).

Thanks,
Ark.

P.S. I'm Arkmage_Newbie around m.n
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Old 05-17-2006, 11:25 AM   #30
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I can't recall where I saw a thread about long vac lines, but someone tested a really long line (20 metres or something crazy like that) and they said it didn't make any noticeable difference!
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Old 05-17-2006, 06:17 PM   #31
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The line to the MAP sensor can be as long as you want it to be. I'm pretty sure that it was the guys from Flyin Miata who did the really long vacuum line experiment. I have mounted my MS next to the OEM computer. The MS and the DB37 jumper cable happily fit under the plate in the passenger's footwell.

And my car drives as well as it used to on the factory computer while using less fuel and sounding really cool on the over-run, so tuning isn't really an issue with the long vac line.
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Old 05-18-2006, 09:34 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aussie Driver
The line to the MAP sensor can be as long as you want it to be. I'm pretty sure that it was the guys from Flyin Miata who did the really long vacuum line experiment. I have mounted my MS next to the OEM computer. The MS and the DB37 jumper cable happily fit under the plate in the passenger's footwell.

And my car drives as well as it used to on the factory computer while using less fuel and sounding really cool on the over-run, so tuning isn't really an issue with the long vac line.
Sweet... good to hear. Now I just need to sell my van so I can buy the kit
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Old 05-21-2006, 07:59 AM   #33
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Hey Steve,

Just another one, I read through your thread again and I saw you've spliced the power wires so they run to both the MegaSquirt and factory ECU. Does the factory ECU need any of the other wires that the MegaSquirt uses, or are they simply cut?

For example do I run the tach and/or TPS wires to both the factory ECU and MegaSquirt, or do I just cut those wires and hook them in only to the MegaSquirt?

Cheers
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Old 05-21-2006, 08:50 AM   #34
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The CAS wires are cut
The OEM coolant temp is shared
The OEM AIT is still connected
The OEM injector and coil wires are cut
The OEM grounds are shared
The OEM power is shared
The variable TPS is MS'd only the remaining ones go to the OEM
I've reconnected the fuel pump to the OEM
and I think that's about it.

If I've forgotten anything that you need then let me know.
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