My MS Install - 90 Miata
 

I learn from pictures and so I have assembled the following pics incase someone thinks and learns like i do....

First of all I ordered my MS from Protocar for $265 assembled...
I specified Hall Sensor and MSNS firmware when I ordered it....

I will hack these pics up a little and add narrative.... if it works....


On the top side of the board the following mods need to be done for Spark and Fuel... V.3 Printed Circuit Board

Q6 and Q8 need to be removed
C12 and C30 need to be removed
D1 needs to be removed and replaced with a jumper


http://www.automotiveexpression.com/ms1.jpg


The D1 Diode is removed and replaced with a jumper..

http://www.automotiveexpression.com/ms2.jpg

Remove Q6

http://www.automotiveexpression.com/ms3.jpg

Remove Q8

http://www.automotiveexpression.com/ms4.jpg

Remove Caps C12 & C30

http://www.automotiveexpression.com/ms5.jpg

The Back has a little going on...

http://www.automotiveexpression.com/ms6.jpg


http://www.automotiveexpression.com/ms7.jpg

This is the mod to get the cas to work....


http://www.automotiveexpression.com/miatacasmod.jpg

This is needed to get COIL signal to DB37 Connector....

http://www.automotiveexpression.com/miatacoilmod.jpg

Ok Guys what am I missing, so far?

Chris

Just the idle control.

Do this (lifted straight from the Mega Manual),

For PWM Idle Valve Users Only

Note - if you are using a PWM idle valve (Ford or Bosch 2 wire valve - see this link for more information), these valves can not be operated with a relay. As a result, they need a higher capacity transistor installed.

DO NOT install Q4 for use with PWM idle valves - it cannot handle the current directly for PWM idle valves. ('On/Off' type idle valves used with a relay are fine with the default Q4.)

Instead, for a PWM idle valve, use a TIP120/121/122 transistor (such as Digi-Key 497-2539-5-ND, 74¢ ea.) mounted on either the heat sink (if you have a spare spot) or the case. You should use a mica insulator (4724K-ND, 93¢) with heat sink grease as well. Run wires to the Q4 connections as shown below:

Do not install Q20 or D8, and jumper R39 as well. You will also have to put a 1N4001 diode across the PWM Idle valve itself - the banded end goes to the 12 Volt supply, the non-banded end goes to the lead that goes to MegaSquirt (this diode is for flyback purposes on the idle valve).

As an alternative to the TIP120 mod you can do this per Jerry at DIYAutotune

This is an EXCELLENT thread! I missed the second mod that kags posted! What does it do?

Another question:

What about D2, I currently have it jumpered, is that right?

I have more, but I need to look at my board when I get home. I dont remember if I installed those transistors and resistors referenced.

:bowdown: :bowdown: :bowdown: :bowdown:

D2 is jumpered. My board came built with d2 jumpered.

Kags is a frustrated "Hand Model".:gay:

Glad he took up Miata's and electronics:bigtu:

I'm not into Megasquirt, but I can see your contributions and postings are superior. Thanks:bowdown:

"This is a simple two-part kit with a 1/4w 620ohm resistor to replace R19 and a ZTX688b to replace Q4. This will allow for control of the Ford two wire IAC valve found in Mustangs/Probes and surely other Fords (and maybe some Mazdas like the MX6) as well. "



This mod looks to be a little cleaner. So you just replace the two components in the kit on the board at the Q4 and R19 ? Are any of the other TIP120 mods needed to make this work?

Chris

Yes, we hand models are a different breed.....hehehe.

Aussie Driver, how did you mount the TIP120 ? The thread mentions mounting it on the case or heat sink... ? ? ?

Yup, thats it. It does seem WAYY cleaner to do it this way. I have purchased the "kit" from DIYAutotune and will report back when I get it up and running.

The location on the heat sink nearest the DB37 is empty on my board, that may or may not be right :confused:

beautiful job.

I had no room on the heatsink on my board so I just fitted my TIP122 onto the proto area of the V3.0 board. If you look at the photo I attached to my earlier post, it's the bottom source of the colored lines.

I am planning on getting a small strip of copper and attaching that to the back of the TIP122 and letting the other end of it touch the top of the MS case to help dissapate the heat. At the moment I'm running the MS without the top of the case on it so the copper is on my to-do-list.

Steve

Ok, now I am home and have my MS infront of me.

I dont know why in the hell I didnt install Q16? I will.

Why do we leave Q6 and Q8 out?

Why not just _glue_ the tip like this:

http://img479.imageshack.us/img479/9...odscopy7te.jpg

You can attach it here it seems by using the heat sink goop+epoxy or that thermal tape (I have bought it at fry's before for like a dollar.) they sell at electronics stores. I have used both to attach heatsinks to memory on video cards or chipsets that overheat without a heat sink. Using the tape would be easy to remove and will proabably do a decent job at disspating the heat to the metal. heatsink goop+ epoxy would proabably work better but be a bitch to remove.... just throwing out ideas becuase it sitting in the proto area seems kinda ghetto.

..

Start of the wiring harness....


The narrow side

http://www.automotiveexpression.com/ms8.jpg

The Wide side "Grounds"

http://www.automotiveexpression.com/ms9.jpg

Thanks dude!