rotaryjunky

iTrader: (3)

I can't imagine it being any easier to hook up my MS from Kingof1337, but I still have questions!

I want to get everything hooked up to the point that I can drive it over to lovefab, hook up my 550s, disable the vortech, and switch it over to MS. Then enjoy my tire shredding 6psi. (until I can afford the IC, clutch, and 1.8 rear)

I tried to calibrate my LC1 but when I first hooked it up, I had the black calibration wire grounded the whole time. When I realized my stupidity, I did it again correctly, although I don't have an LED handy to verify it. (I plan to add one) Did I hurt anything?

How do I hook up the LC1 to the MS, so it can use the wideband to make adjustments? I am keeping my stock O2 installed also.

Also, where exactly do I connect the fuel pump wire on the diagnostic connector?

Thanks guys!

arga

I'm installing mine right now too, but it sounds like our set ups are a little different. I have a 99 with a 4-wire. I'm also replacing my front O2 with the LC-1. The stock connector for the front O2 has 12v, heater ground (goes through the ECU, not sure if it's switched or not), O2 sensor output, and a wire I didn't use that's either a ground or 5 volts. On the LC-1 I ran the system and analog ground to the same engine ground that MS and the stock ECU are on; the 12v source, the heater ground, and analog-1 to the stock O2 connector; and I ran analog 2 to MS.

That was my plan, anyway. I didn't allow enough time for my liquid electrical tape to dry in cold weather and I shorted the 12v to the ground, blowing a fuse. I've fixed the problem but I'm out of weekend now.

BTW, thanks for pointing out the LC-1 on Ebay.

mschlang

Check post 48 in the first sticky for the fuel pump.

Isn't wideband hookup covered in the MegaManual?

rotaryjunky

iTrader: (3)

Thanks! So I guess it doesn't matter where it connects at. I have actually read that a couple of times but didn't connect it in my head at the time. It feels like I am in school again, getting schooled.

I read the megatune manual but I guess I missed the "megamanual", oops! Wish me luck, please give me a couple of weeks to sort through it. But it is definitely in there, where the wideband wire splices in, right!?

neogenesis2004

iTrader: (12)

Hooks into the O2 signal pin on the MS. Pin 23. ctrl + F is your friend.

rotaryjunky

iTrader: (3)

Obviously, I need to cut the wire coming from the stock ecu and connect the wideband output to the MS at pin 23 instead, right? I know this is annoying, but I really want to get it right the first time. Thanks!

neogenesis2004

iTrader: (12)

You dont necessarily need to cut the narrowband o2 wire. I left mine intact. But yes, just wire the WB analog output to pin 23 and then set megatune to wideband. Search for a post called "setting up an lc1" it will give you all the details of the settings you need on the software end.

rotaryjunky

iTrader: (3)

But don't I have to cut the o2 connector wire from the stock ecu to the MS and hook up the wideband instead? Otherwise, both the stock ecu and the MS will be getting signals from two O2 sensors. Somebody just drive up here and point to the right wire. Free dinner?

I wish.

Do I even need the wideband controller or should I have used the MS to do it? Otherwise, I could have just bought a bosch sensor instead of the LC1!?

cjernigan

iTrader: (13)

You need the wideband controller, MS can't read off just the Bosch sensor, the LC1 converts that signal into a standard form that MS can read. Alot of people keep the stock 02 sensor on the ECU and the WB connected to their MS.

Al Hounos

You don't need the stock o2 sensor just wire the WB output from the lc1 to the
ms and the NB output to the stock ecu. its not difficult just read your manuals.

rotaryjunky

iTrader: (3)

Ok, I do pour over the manuals, I just always seem to solder the wrong wire. So I just like to measure twice, bug the crap out of everyone, and solder once. And like much of this project, when I actually do it, it does seem easy.

arga

Sorry to hijack but I had to make a correction.

My plan for LC-1 install didn't work. I had run the heater ground into the stock heater ground (violet/yellow) which leads back to the ECU. I'm not sure what the ECU does to it but after about a minute the LC-1 started to flash #8(bad sensor) and I got a latched CEL. I ran the heater ground to the engine block and NB emulation works now. Steady light on the LC-1 and no CELs.

Rotaryjunky, I think your cautious approach is the smart way to go. I've been cutting twice and measuring once and I'm lucky that the only thing I've blown so far is a fuse. Of course, I'll keep doing it my way. It's just my nature.

rotaryjunky

iTrader: (3)

Does anyone know why they say to connect the heater ground to the same ground as the other grounds? I understand why the other ones need to be grounded at the ecu but the heater ground just carries current and isn't sensitive to small voltage fluctuations.