Oh look, another scrub that can't tune
#21
Well my battery voltage does drop all the way down to 5-7V when cranking. Returns to 13V when not cranking. It's a pretty dead battery jumpered to a strong, charging battery in a running car. I figured the drop was normal due to load. I've seen some weird battery related issues before but not exactly like this. Possible that the amp load on the single good battery between the running car and starter is too great? Try throwing a new battery+jumpers at it? I'm at a loss at this point so I'm willing to try about anything.
#23
You're losing sync - reasons 31 and 32. https://www.miataturbo.net/megasquir...reasons-43775/
Have you twisted any of the trimpots on megasquirt?
Have you twisted any of the trimpots on megasquirt?
#24
You're losing sync - reasons 31 and 32. https://www.miataturbo.net/megasquir...reasons-43775/
Have you twisted any of the trimpots on megasquirt?
Have you twisted any of the trimpots on megasquirt?
#27
Junior Member
iTrader: (-1)
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Southern California
Posts: 421
Total Cats: 16
You're losing sync because the voltage is dropping below 6V. Ask me how I know. Essentially there's not enough power to run the MS.
Yeah that's a dead battery. Mine was doing the same after all the failed cranking tests. Would drop all the way down to 5.6V. Swapped to new battery, reset to basemap values for cranking PW, car has started each time.
Swap to new. Try again.
New battery starts at 12ish, and drops to mid 9s at the lowest now. First crank started at 12.1 and pulled down to mid 8s. After that always mid high 9s now that the car is in use.
Yeah that's a dead battery. Mine was doing the same after all the failed cranking tests. Would drop all the way down to 5.6V. Swapped to new battery, reset to basemap values for cranking PW, car has started each time.
Swap to new. Try again.
New battery starts at 12ish, and drops to mid 9s at the lowest now. First crank started at 12.1 and pulled down to mid 8s. After that always mid high 9s now that the car is in use.
#28
East side, Stone Mountain area.
Makes sense. This battery was starting to lose its charge ~2 months ago, then sat for a month, then was repeatedly drained by me cranking with it. I figured letting it charge for an hour or so might revive it but apparently not.
You're losing sync because the voltage is dropping below 6V. Ask me how I know. Essentially there's not enough power to run the MS.
Yeah that's a dead battery. Mine was doing the same after all the failed cranking tests. Would drop all the way down to 5.6V. Swapped to new battery, reset to basemap values for cranking PW, car has started each time.
Swap to new. Try again.
New battery starts at 12ish, and drops to mid 9s at the lowest now. First crank started at 12.1 and pulled down to mid 8s. After that always mid high 9s now that the car is in use.
Yeah that's a dead battery. Mine was doing the same after all the failed cranking tests. Would drop all the way down to 5.6V. Swapped to new battery, reset to basemap values for cranking PW, car has started each time.
Swap to new. Try again.
New battery starts at 12ish, and drops to mid 9s at the lowest now. First crank started at 12.1 and pulled down to mid 8s. After that always mid high 9s now that the car is in use.
#31
Well my battery voltage does drop all the way down to 5-7V when cranking. Returns to 13V when not cranking. It's a pretty dead battery jumpered to a strong, charging battery in a running car. I figured the drop was normal due to load. I've seen some weird battery related issues before but not exactly like this. Possible that the amp load on the single good battery between the running car and starter is too great? Try throwing a new battery+jumpers at it? I'm at a loss at this point so I'm willing to try about anything.
#33
https://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?p=9199581
Yes, the port pointing toward the cam cover does not show boost. Its originally used for the charcoal canister. Use the forward pointing port. This one works normally and will show vacuum and boost.
#36
For my own sanity I compression checked the motor. Completely cold, 1-4 I got 180, 180, 180, 160. Perfectly reasonable for a 128k mile OEM motor with 80+ track hours and three over revs.
I jumperd GND/FP and confirmed I had fuel pouring into a bottle. Pump is strong.
I have fuel. I have spark. I have compression. It has to be some tune issue.
#38
Junior Member
iTrader: (-1)
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Southern California
Posts: 421
Total Cats: 16
^^^. You're getting ~30 lost sync events during that cranking attempt. Check the gap on your crank position sensor. Need ~1 credit card's gap in between. It has a tendency to loosen at times. And check cam sensors as well. And also, do what goof says.