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Old 10-17-2007, 09:40 PM   #41
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Zip your msq and post it too Rich.

Your datalog and that ign map you just posted jive when I look at it. Not sure what you mean. Looks like it's working good.

Your CLT sensor reading is messed up though when I look at it. It jumps like crazy soon as you get on the gas.
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Old 10-17-2007, 10:03 PM   #42
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I just posted a screenshot of the advance settings i had i was talking about in the table beside the log. i didn't go over the log very thuroughly, i just seen a retarded table over there and assumed something is wrong but now that i look at it more thuroghly i can see it jives ok. for ***** here is my new msq. i hope to try 14 psi tommorow. My clt only rises 5 degrees C how is that going crazy i think i am getting some real drag from my alternator hence the voltage drops. Config one line to read voltage and you will see what i am talking about. I had no lights on or AC/heater blowers I should hope our stock electrical system could keep up with that.
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Old 10-17-2007, 10:05 PM   #43
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gotta reload your msq evertime you open mlv.

fwiw. this is my chart:





also fwiw, my voltage stays at 13.6-13.8 all the time.
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Old 10-17-2007, 10:07 PM   #44
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hmm do you get good throttle response with those numbers. That is alot of non boosted advance. Maybe my new chart will do better.
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Old 10-17-2007, 10:09 PM   #45
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if you wanna play it safe, DIY uses this:




I'd match their non boosted timing in the least.
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Old 10-17-2007, 10:14 PM   #46
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Nah i don't want safe but i will add even more non boosted advance and see if it works better. i just checked my last MSq and my non boosted got changed to pretty close to that anyway. So it should be all good.
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Old 10-18-2007, 11:14 PM   #47
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Goddamn, Brain. That's a lot of advance in the boosted cells.

Name:  SavingtonVETableGT2554R.jpg
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(this map meant for observation use only, no attempt should be made to actually run a car on this map, any such attempt is made at the end user's own risk, dont sue me i have no money)

Jerry's tune, I pulled 2 degrees out of all the boosted cells when I switched from the small T25 to the larger GT2554R. I am going to try and get a progressive WI setup on the car early next year and re-tune the spark map on a dyno then.

Last edited by Savington; 10-19-2007 at 12:00 AM.
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Old 10-18-2007, 11:40 PM   #48
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Pussies


***Dynotuned on MY CAR. For use with premium fuel, min 93 octane. In no way gauranteed to be safe on other vehicles. For reference only. Use at own risk. Owner accepts no liability. Always wear a glove if you're going to get love. Et Cetera***
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Old 10-19-2007, 12:00 AM   #49
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Ben, good god O_O
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Old 10-19-2007, 05:31 AM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ben View Post
Pussies


***Dynotuned on MY CAR. For use with premium fuel, min 93 octane. In no way gauranteed to be safe on other vehicles. For reference only. Use at own risk. Owner accepts no liability. Always wear a glove if you're going to get love. Et Cetera***

looks similar to mine, I have a tad more advance arount the 150kpa area, and a tad less in the non boosted cruise areas.

might try advancing the cruise area and pick up a few mpg....

no ping etc, but it does require Shell V-Power which is 98 Ron or Tesco's Ethanol blend which is 99Ron.
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Old 10-19-2007, 10:15 AM   #51
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WTF is RON. Pretty sure all he is gonna be able to get is 93, i personally like shell. Or there is always sunoco 100.

For some reason, using shells 87 works better in my truck the ford 3.0 v6 is very prone to pinging and with discount gas mine pings like a MFr. Shell just about clears it all up.
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Old 10-19-2007, 10:47 AM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cjernigan View Post
WTF is RON. Pretty sure all he is gonna be able to get is 93, i personally like shell. Or there is always sunoco 100.

For some reason, using shells 87 works better in my truck the ford 3.0 v6 is very prone to pinging and with discount gas mine pings like a MFr. Shell just about clears it all up.

RON

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Octane_...rement_methods

the most common way of measuring a fuels octane rating. 99 is probably equal to your 94
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Old 11-19-2007, 04:52 PM   #53
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So i see one of my MS boards is finally working completely.. Unfortunately it had to have some mods on the mods

Hey Scott, why couldnt you have been so up on MS when i was building these things last year??

Richard, im glad you got it workin though, now i have to fix mine and get it going.

Its time to get back into workin on the miata again, the AZ heat has finally let up and i can stand to be outside for more than 5 minutes.
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Old 11-19-2007, 05:02 PM   #54
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because it didnt make sense to me a year ago. :gay:
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Old 11-19-2007, 05:11 PM   #55
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Well obviously me either from the spark wiring error i made!
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Old 11-19-2007, 05:13 PM   #56
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I blame Kags
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Old 11-19-2007, 05:14 PM   #57
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Did that thread get deleted or put away where no one could find it? Kags mods were the cause of many peoples sorrows there for a while.
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Old 11-19-2007, 05:16 PM   #58
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yeah, sounds good, i blame kags too
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Old 11-19-2007, 09:43 PM   #59
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When I did mine I soldered the resistors on the top side and the wires on the bottom side for that part. It was damn near impossible to solder both the wire and the resistor to the same point without it looking like ***.

I also used 1/2 watt resistors for that part, so it would have been impossible to fit them between the points anway.
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Old 11-19-2007, 11:07 PM   #60
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it's easier if you make a horseshoe out of them:

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