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Old 01-05-2008, 07:42 PM   #1
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Default Please help me with AFRs

I dont know how to fix my problem, at idle AFR is 8-10 but when I cruise down the street it goes to 22.4. Then when I step on it, it goes rich to 9-10. Its bouncy too. I have an LC1.
Would you please help me, I've been reading the megamanual but cant figure it out, or you could direct me where to look.

How do I upload my files? I can show you guys some pulls I did on 4th gear and my MS setting. I tried attaching them but it said "invalid file"
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Old 01-05-2008, 08:21 PM   #2
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uhhh. have you tuned at all?

let's begin.

first idle tuning:
- in megatune
Basic Settings --> Fuel VE Table
with car idling you should see one of the cells highlighted in green. reduce the number in that cell a lil at a time till your AFRs at idle are 13.5ish, reduce the surrounding 8 cells by just a fraction of the overall change in the idle cell. like 1/3 or 1/4

now on to tuning while driving
- in Megatune
1. make up an AFR Target table like the one shown below.
  • More Settings --> LAMBA AFR Settings --> for VE Table 1 - ON
  • then go to More Settings --> AFR Targets for VE Table 1
  • copy AFR Table below
2. set EGO step size to 0 - Basic Settings --> Exhaust Gas Settings --> Controller Step Size
3. Save MSQ - Control-S
4. drive and log for 10-15, vary your driving so you have low rpm/low load, high rpm/low load, low rpm/high load, high rpm/high load, and everywhere in between.
5. pull over

open Megalogviewer
6. make sure your WBO2 is set. Calculate Fields --> Wideband O2-AFR
7. open the log file you just made
8. open your current msq - click 'Open MSQ' button
9. click VE Analyzer button
10. click run analysis
11. accept new VE table
12. save or save as new VE table

back in Megatune
13. open the new MSQ file you just created with VE Analyzer
14. Yes, burn it to controller.

repeat starting with step 4 until you get a good tune
Attached Thumbnails
Please help me with AFRs-my_afr_targets.jpg  
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Old 01-05-2008, 08:42 PM   #3
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Thanks for the info, I have tuned the VE table and AFR tables. When idling the AFRs are very rich at 8-10 but when I let off the gas while crusing it goes to 22.4, no matter how rich I set my VE table or no matter how rich the AFR table is set up for. I even put 70% on the low rpms at the VE table and it still gives me 22.4 afr when I let off. But after I let off and pull over when the engine starts idling normal it goes down to 8-10afr aggain
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Old 01-05-2008, 08:43 PM   #4
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Old 01-05-2008, 08:48 PM   #5
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That sounds right for decel cut, pretty sure that's what mine does. As for the rich idle, what does your VE table look like?
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Old 01-05-2008, 08:52 PM   #6
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Thanks guys, I'm officially a dumbass
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Old 01-05-2008, 09:03 PM   #7
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you see a lean condition on decel because you cut fueling during that period. these settings can be changed on the overrun settings. turn them off and see really rich decels.
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Old 01-05-2008, 09:14 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 90turboMX5 View Post
Thanks guys, I'm officially a dumbass
We already knew that before but thanks for aknowledging it that is the first step to recovery.
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Old 01-05-2008, 10:37 PM   #9
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Ok, it now seems to run better but the DB gauge and the MS WB reading are not stable at all. I think this is why the autotune is not working very preciselly. I think that maybe the grounds of the WB are catching noise and the reading are all messed up, I've tried different grounds but no luck.
Right now the white (system ground) and the green (analog ground) wires are soldered to a washer kind of fitting and bolted to ground right next to the CAS to the that bolts the hook to lift the engine. I soldered the other two grounds, the blue wire (heater ground) and the DB gauge ground to the other side of the engine below the coil pack where the engine ground wire is bolted.
Is there anything wrond with this?

And my last question is about my EBC. It's the Gm solenoid from DIY. It's plumbed the right way, JS2 is set up for BC and my DC table is at the lowest (1) but I'm still getting 10+ psi boost after 5000rpms. Do you have any idea why?
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Old 01-05-2008, 10:39 PM   #10
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did you modify your settings.ini file to make autotune work correctly?

about the EBC, see my latest post in the MS section.
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Old 01-05-2008, 10:50 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Braineack View Post
did you modify your settings.ini file to make autotune work correctly?

about the EBC, see my latest post in the MS section.
I have a MSPNP, do I need that insulator?
I didnt modify the settings.ini file, how do I do that? and if you say rtfm, thats ok but where is it?

Thanks
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Old 01-05-2008, 11:11 PM   #12
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no not with a pnp.


but yes i think you still to mod the file. see my writeup how-to sticky, it shows what file and what to change.
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Old 01-06-2008, 12:54 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Braineack View Post
no not with a pnp.


but yes i think you still to mod the file. see my writeup how-to sticky, it shows what file and what to change.
Yea, I've done that. I think the grounds on my WB may not be the reason, but I put them in different places and they still do the same.

How do I post attachments on here, it keeps telling me "invalid file" when I upload my ms tables etc?
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Old 01-06-2008, 01:04 AM   #14
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gotta zip it first.
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Old 01-06-2008, 07:08 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 90turboMX5 View Post
Ok, it now seems to run better but the DB gauge and the MS WB reading are not stable at all. I think this is why the autotune is not working very preciselly. I think that maybe the grounds of the WB are catching noise and the reading are all messed up, I've tried different grounds but no luck.
Right now the white (system ground) and the green (analog ground) wires are soldered to a washer kind of fitting and bolted to ground right next to the CAS to the that bolts the hook to lift the engine. I soldered the other two grounds, the blue wire (heater ground) and the DB gauge ground to the other side of the engine below the coil pack where the engine ground wire is bolted.
Is there anything wrond with this?

And my last question is about my EBC. It's the Gm solenoid from DIY. It's plumbed the right way, JS2 is set up for BC and my DC table is at the lowest (1) but I'm still getting 10+ psi boost after 5000rpms. Do you have any idea why?
per DIY instructions and/or this site you should ground the WB at the same grounding point the ECU uses which is right next to the throttle body

as far as your boost/ebc question, if i missed it i apologize, but what exactly is your problem? too much boost? was your boost lower before you hooked up the EBC?
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Old 01-06-2008, 07:32 AM   #16
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Uh paul main ground is by the FPR not the TB the TB ground is a tach and ignitor ground.
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Old 01-06-2008, 07:44 AM   #17
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****, are you serious? is this a 90-93 specific location? i could swear all my PNP lit said use the ground next to the TB. they even showed pics.

EDIT:




sorry for the misinformation if the 90-93 is different
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Old 01-06-2008, 07:53 AM   #18
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yep but realy you just want a good reliable ground. I am glad this atleast helped you to expand your 1.6 knowledge.
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Old 01-06-2008, 07:59 AM   #19
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hey, i know the CAS is on the wrong side. ain't that enough?
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Old 01-06-2008, 10:29 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paul View Post
hey, i know the CAS is on the wrong side. ain't that enough?
Yeah, but a 1.6 doesn't eat heater hoses when the C.A.S. O'ring fails

It just makes the transmission bolts easier to come out
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