well, i thought anything fatter than stoichiometric meant unburnt fuel fuel / colloid mixture. However, you have to take into account that I'm a not a chemist, not a tuner, and genuinely dumb to all this shit.

The more research I do, the more I want to let a professional tune the car...but then I run into the same variables I was crying about earlier with ripping me off and shitty ideas on tuning.

i bet even with the diy timing map and an afternoon of logging you'll make 250whp easy. get it together have some fun and maybe look into tuning over the winter

well I have a track day on 9/20. I also have an 8.8:1 static compression motor, so i can roll the spark way forward...because I'm baller.

Its going to be a real bitch when I get it to the dyno and realize its making more torque and power than I wanted (transmission death), and have to roll it back. lol I think the bore, head, bigger turbo, 3" exhuast, and alignment of the planets spurred by me working on the car will make 250whp pretty fucking easy to hit.

as a maximum. sustained 1600 F temps could burn valves over a pretty short time. short term is ok. on a track I'd keep them below 1500 since you'll be in boost for longer periods at a time. (bear in mind that where you measure makes a difference--lets assume this is at the collector pre-turbo)

Would someone care to share where is the best location to place the EGT sensor?

Thanks

I can't speak to the best place, but most people around here are going to put it somewhat close to to the turbo in the manifold / collector. Here's where mine is.. the probe is not in the port but the port's there on the right..

http://gallery.y8s.com/d/501-3/DSC00184.jpg

Thanks for that pic Matt

mine is going as far forward on the downpipe as possible. I've seen taps crack on manifolds in VW's and I'm not playing that game. If I have any problem with the manifold, I plan on sending it back to BEGi without any resistance.

For $5 BEGI would have added the EGT bung. They put mine on #4. I drilled and tapped my greddy manifold and never had a problem with cracking.

I hope you meant manifold and not downpipe. I can't see how temps post turbo would give you a reliable measure of the heat coming out of your exhaust valves.

I originally had mine tapped right into the pipe but later added a 1/8NPT bung. Part of the reason was the threads got jacked in the original hole and F'd up the collar.

That pic shows the bungus among us.

I don't want to take the chance.

Jay, do you have a pic of yours?

Thanks

You want a picture of my bung? :giggle:

I no longer have the Greddy manifold, and the bung on the BEGI manifold is nearly impossible to see with out removing the manifold, which I don't plan on doing :) It is under the #4 runner. I would have rather seen it in the collector, but given how it is constructed that would be darn near impossible. I locates the probe JUST into the manifold (my Prosport probe is pretty short), which is a good thing I didn't like how far into the manifold my Autometer probe went.

My EGTS are low compared to my greddy setup. This could have to do with location, accuracy of the probe or the turbo itself and manifold design.

Jay

THIS is a shocker. :) Send the manifold to BEGI and have them do it.

no, I'm talking about taking the chance of it cracking regardless of who does it.

Are Canadian bungs smaller? :giggle:

i know my American probe is long and rigid. It slips in American just fine, and worked just fine in an Asian bung on Saturday night. I've also used it in an Italian application and it worked very well in both the front and rear bungs.

You know that the temperature post-compressor is lower than the temperature pre-compressor, right?

I'm curious too if an EGT sensor in the DP is worthwhile. I've got the stock narrowband just sitting there doing nothing. Whack a $50 egt sensor in there for more logging info. If the numbers post turbo don't mean much then it's $50 wasted. Dont' need to just throw away Kaish.